Do you change your own oil in your Tundra?

During my first DIY oil change, i tried w a strap wrench and no go. I ended up having to use a pair of channel locks. I first wanted to see if i could get the filter off b4 i attempted to change the oil.

I read the oil pan bolt should be torqued to 30lbs/ft, so when I started to unloosen the bolt, I expected to put some real elbow grease into it, BUT, I barely had to turn my wrench b4 it turned like it was barely on. What a bunch of xxxx. The torques were reversed: oil filter was was too tight and the oil pan bolt seemed like it was hand tightened.

 

30 ft lbs is correct

I think there are some bad washers out there that cause the drain bolt to lose torque.

I had some previously. My last oil change on my 2012 Tunda, the drain plug was finger tight. It was that way on all three of my cars with that bag of washers. I always torque to 30 ft lbs.

That's good to know. I dont have any garden hoses to trash. I bought this, works perfectly.

$10 uxcell 15mm x 18mm Beige Heat Resistant Silicone Tube Water Air Pump Hose 1M Length

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2GX8I5

 

Retroboy 1989 said:

"I think there are some bad washers out there that cause the drain bolt to lose torque.

I had some previously. My last oil change on my 2012 Tunda, the drain plug was finger tight. It was that way on all three of my cars with that bag of washers. I always torque to 30 ft lbs."

Wanted to ask the guys here that change their own oil. On my 2014 Ford F150, I had an oil pan bolt that had a simple rubber-type o-ring. changed my oil 25 times and sold it at 128K. Never had one problem. Has anyone tried or thought of switching to a simple rubber o-ring instead of a multi-layered-multi-colored-blue washer?
Would Toyota have a fit if they ever saw a rubber o-ring?

Finally, does anyone know why Toyota changed to the flat washer that has to be changed every time? is it a money grab? Toyota OEM washer was $1.80. If it costs .07 cents to make, then it's a money grab that's now a consumable.

 

If consumable parts were a money grab for them I don’t think you’d be able to pick up an OEM filter at Walmart for $7. Install a fumoto valve and never deal with a drain plug or washer again.

 

"Do you change your own oil..."

ABSOLUTELY!!! The kid on the dealership's lube rack is not putting his dick beaters on my drain plug, filter, or splash shield bolts only to over tighten, cross thread, strip out or otherwise screw up something... Have always done all my own maintenance or repairs. I do save all receipts and document everything just in case push comes to shove over a possible warranty issue. Warranty issues I seek out the main Master Diagnostic Tech at the service department and make sure it fits in his schedule.

 

Yep. Have since 1986. Over 200 engine oil changes with my own hands. Never a too tight oil filter. Never a stubborn drain bolt (though I've used Fumoto valves now for 15+ years).

 

64mm is perfect like this one - https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/pennzoil/pennzoil-oil-filter-wrench/pen4/19906

it fits the filter perfectly and you use your 3/8” drive ratchet. Better than any of the other ones IMO.

 

I ended up ordering the Motivix wrench 64.3mm, and I got a

$12 Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool,U.S.,2-1/2 - 3-1/8

Lisle 63600 in case that doesn't work. I'll try them on Friday & we'll see.

Someone asked if the dealer changes the crush washer - i know they did on mine. I bought a dozen of the washers with the blue coating at the same time I bought a dozen OEM filters. The washer they put on didn't have the blue coating, it was a cheaper version.

 

The Motivix wrench is well made & I was hoping it would work, but it slipped as well. The

$12 Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool,U.S.,2-1/2 - 3-1/8

Lisle 63600 got it off though, it really dug into the filter. They must have put the filter on with a breaker bar.