White Smoke on Warm Start

Alright ya'll. I've been troubleshooting this one and tracking when the smoke is most likely, so I could write a good description while asking for your help... I was hoping I could figure it out reading other threads and double checking a bunch of stuff, but no.

My truck has been exhausting white smoke on some warm-starts for about 2 months now. The previous 2 before that? Nada. Here are the conditions where that happens. Didn't happen for 1000 miles, has been happening for about 1000. Truck has 141k

Video of smoke and condition of sparks

Only happens under following conditions:

- Truck is warm, all the way warm. Also driven at highway speeds, typically with downshifts, incline, load. Putting around down doesn't make it happen later.
- Truck sits for ~1.5-2.5 hours
- Happens very consistently when I drive for 20-30 minutes up a few thousand feet. These load conditions usually lead to a downshift to maintain 70. This is up to the local ski hill. It smokes without fail when I start up to leave if it is within 1.5-2.5 hours.
- Curiously, the truck will NOT smoke if I park it at home and start it up in that same time frame. - Yes it is typically near or below freezing at the ski area, and warmer below. BUT, it has smoked in my driveway before, just not nearly as consistently.
- Truck typically receives 89, at a Top Tier station. Maybe I should try a different station LOL.

Things I've examined:

- Pictures of sparks in the link. All 8 looked the same. 40k miles on them.
- PCV valve, clean and new and identical to new unit I purchased.
- Power steering vacuum lines are dry, and testing the valve per the FSM (feeling vacuum at full lock) seemed to function as normal
- Checked all other vacuum lines before or at the TB, all dry.
- No check engine lights, no codes, no stuttering, or otherwise poor running symptoms
- Doesn't smell like coolant. Maybe a touch of blue (barely), just a stinky white. Doesn't happen if cold started next day? Can't tell cause it doesn't sit at ski pass overnight...
- I did seafoam it a few months ago. Top end (a la intake right at the throttle body) and a tank treatment. Suspiciously didn't happen before that. But I don't know. Oil has been changed for 1000 miles since then, with no additional fuel additives. This is the strongest correlated event and the one I am most suspicious of, just not sure how to rationalize it back to data or test it...
- No change with recent removal/addition of stock to airaid intake. (not that I expected any)

Options?

- Leakage from a stuck injector? Would this explain it not happening on cold start as the fuel is sneaking past the rings by the time a cold start happens? But I have no codes and the truck "fine?"
- Leftover seafoam either in the intake runners used at higher RPM or in the exhaust, or stuck in engine gunk that either burns off or condensates based on warm truck, cold weather scenario?
- Valve guide seals? It's just odd that I bought the truck, with 5w30 in it, changed it early to Pennzoil platinum, and now it's leaking via here? It went from no smoke to all smoke. And it's white... and these aren't known for that?
- Am I missing something related to crank case pressure and high RPM?
- Should I run my OBDII beep boop box on startups to check the commanded afr and realtime O2 sensor data? What what I want to be scrutinizing?
- Is this a red flag for ya'll as far as continued driving? What I don't want to be doing is washing down the cylinders and then wearing them out or something.
- Temp sensor throwing the mix wrong?

Anyways... Thanks ahead of time for your help!

 

Search for power steering pump valve. The vacuum line can suck power steering fluid into the intake

 

Were the plugs OEM ?
If all 8 plugs look like these 3 you posted in your link @ 40K miles driven at highway speeds, typically with downshifts, incline, load, my 1st thought is fuel control problem. If it was only 1 maybe 2 cylinders. I would say fuel injector.

When you say Top Tier, do you mean someone like Shell, they're considered Top Tier.

Someone in video mentioned smelling like plastic....anything to that ?

If your OBDII box does fuel trim, that would be great to see given I'm feeling rich condition.

 

Thanks, yes all 8 are

$9 denso SK20R11 iridium spark plug, pack of 1

denso SK20R11 plugs, they all look very similar, nothing stands out as fouled or black. I don't know the PO driving habits but the truck was only driven 70K ish since it's last T-belt change in 2016.

Yes, it's Shell Gas

Plastic smell... It's more like.. chemically or fumey to me, rather than plastic. Think rich or noxious.

Ya I'll dig out the OBDII reader...

 

Ya I mentioned that in my write up. Anything beyond what I said? Lines are dry.

 

Lucky you....you're approaching the 90K miles recommended and are at the 9 years(108 mo)

 

Fuel is normally black smoke

 

Yup. Bunch of parts ordered yesterday.

 

Ya that's been my experience with gas too. But it has a distinct smell that is of something petroleum based being burnt. Zero coolant smell to my nose.

Thoughts on residual top end cleaner 1000 miles later? That stuff produced huge white clouds after following the instructions on the bottle...

 

Unless it went into the intake as a liquid, it should all be combusted during the treatment. Power steering valve is the number one culprit. No engine codes I'm assuming

 

It went in as a spray in front of the TB. But it seems like too long ago and it should all be gone.

I read up on that valve, looked for fluid at both lines, and tested vacuum per the FSM by turning to full lock... Is there something else I am missing in regards to troubleshooting or confirming if it is PS fluid?

Thanks for your help.

 

On the valve, the idle changed when the engine is running, steering wheel at full lock, and you squeeze/release either of the two vacuum hoses attached to the valve? Or does the idle stay the same?

 

Idle changed

 

Also what the heck, why is the power steering control valve 17630-16040 so dang expensive!?

 

I got a Dorman unit on clearance from RockAuto for $47 or something.

But if your idle changed while pinching, valve is OK.

 

The idle did change. Pretty subtle but I guess that's why you turn off the A/C. Must refrain from unloading the parts cannon...

 

The rock sells a Rein unit for $35. Rei gets good reviews on the Bimmer and VW forums. I believe they are a division of Continental.

 

You could add some atp

$15 at205 ATP automotive AT-205 re-seal stops leaks, 8 ounce bottle

at205 to see if the stem seals need it.

Try plugging off the ps valve vacuum ports, to eliminate it.


Also I wouldn't call it a warm start at 1.5-2.5 hours. I'd reserve that for 15-45min.

Since it happens after an elevation change, is yhe ambient temps low enough for condensation to occur in the exhaust? Do other vehicles in the area also have any white smoke?

 

Ok, did it again today. This time, same drive but the truck sat for 5 hours, it puffed an acrid cloud of unburnt something on startup. Probably 35-40 degrees fahrenheit out.

No other vehicles do it. Including the GX470 that was parked next to me for the same exact amount of time.

Never had it do it after being parked so long, but it's usually parked for long periods down in town. Maybe the warm start thing doesn't matter and it's about how hard it's driven?

 

Okay so, I got a daylight video.

Same drive, same ish temperature, 3.5 hours parked.

This time I drove 70 or under and the truck only downshifted to 4th one time, otherwise I drove relaxed.

Still smoked. More blueish? You can see in the second half of the video the normal condensation and rich exhaust that most cars exhibit. But there is this instant plume of smoke, almost like it's sitting in the exhaust...

Haven't found my obd reader yet and truck hasn't been getting driven much...

 

Looks bluish.

Did you ever cap the vacuum ports to eliminate the p/s idle valve as a possibility?


Otherwise I'd be leaning towards stem seals.

 

I did not cap them as both lines are dry.

Dunno how the truck could go from 1000 miles of no smoke to 1000 miles of somewhat semi but not always consistent smoke depending on where driven, and have that be valve guides. Hmmm

 

Have you checked the brake booster vacuum line?

 

I can't remember if I've pulled that one or not. Any advice?

 

Check the brake booster for brake fluid. Remove the vacuum line from the booster and dip a skinny zip tie down inside (like doing a fluid level check) to see if you get any fluid on it. Should be completely dry. If there’s any fluid on it, then the MC is leaking into the BB and the motor may be sucking in some BF.

 

And BF will create white smoke

 

I plan to put some time into this this weekend, check those brake booster hoses. Then will probably tackle the timing belt job.

I added one more good daylight video to folder. The difference this time is that it was 60F where I parked and 70F when I left home. So I don't think cold is a factor, I think it has to do with how hard I run the engine.

Last thought. The smoke is like... Right away. I wish I could remove fuel as a variable in this scenario and see if it will pump smoke just on crank.