2010 Tundra SR5 5.7 CC/FF

After changing the oil (OW20) I'm getting a high oil pressure reading that I've never gotten before. No sludge, changed oil sensor, changed oil twice, used 505 CRO. Low pressure while idle, but when I accelerate it gets up to 80+ and has never really been over 60. Then back to idle it will lower down to 50...... Any suggestions?

 

What oil filter and what oil filter housing did you use?

 

Toyota OEM for both. I forgot to mention I did have the "Metal type" aftermarket housing prior to this oil change, but went back to OEM and still has the high oil pressure. (Mobil1 ow-20 high milage full syn)

Thanks for the quick response

 

There we go. Now, does the OEM housing you are now using have the appropriate metal insert in it?

 

I would hope it's appropriate, buying it from the dealer. It did come with the metal insert. Also, the performance doesn't feel right. Feels like I'm towing a brick house.

 

The filter housing swap is the biggest variable here for oil pressure change. I would revisit the new housing and make sure the housing, metal tube insert (allows oil to flow through it and keeps the filter from collapsing), filter and all O-rings are in proper shape and installed correctly.

 

I thought about that but being that its OEM, I would think it's better than that metal aftermarket housing. I may revisit this aftermarket part. It was doing fine for 12 years, then after watching a You Tube certified Toyota Mechanic saying it was junk, I figured I'd treat my truck to an OEM part. Dangit! This will be the last part I buy before taking it to the dealer to get ripped off. lol. Thanks for the help. I'll repost after I change out the Housing, probably in two days.

 

I'm not saying the new housing is bad, just make sure it's all set up properly.

 

It should be, I change out the oil every 5-7k. Since this problem I changed out 3 oil filters, the used ones don't seem to be crushed. What if I drill wider holes in the screen? Not too much wider, but a little bigger than it is now. Would that help or hinder? Like you said that is the only variable.
It's there for flow and to keep the filter from crumbling. I'm glad the Walmart near me has the OEM filters for $8

 

Nooooooooo. Don't modify the housing or the tube. It's already designed to work properly. As an experiment, switching back to the housing you had no issues before is a good first step.

 

I already trashed the old housing. I'll grab another one from AAP. Thanks for the help. Be back Later.

 

I got an OE Toyota, aluminum filter housing and still had to swap the tube/riser as the o e it came with was much shorter than the OE plastic which cane with the truck.

Post a picture of the housing/ tube next to the filter.?

The dealership parts guys don't ALWAYS get it right.

 

Another thing you might try (as a test to narrow down the problem) is run with no filter element. If you don't see high pressure that way, then you know something is wrong with the housing -- likely either the tube is too short or the bypass valve is messed up, etc.

 

No way that anything going on in the oil filter housing is going to raise oil pressure to 80, except the complete absence of a center support or totally blocked filter which is quite rare. About the only thing that raises oil pressure is a significant restriction somewhere in the system or s failure in the oil pressure relief valve. This is typically built into the oil pump, but not sure how toyota does it. The fact that the new pressure rise coincides with the feeling of significant drag on performance points to a potentially serious internal engine problem. strongly suggest you get some professional help to figure out what is going on inside. There is a chance you are starving the main bearings and that accounts for the feeling of dragging a trailer.

 

The high oil pressure isn’t engine wide, it’s at the oil pressure sensor. If that sensor is in between the oil pump and the filter, then a filter obstruction or flow problem could trigger a high reading, while simultaneously having low pressure available in the oiling system beyond the filter.

 

Quite true. However in order to raise pressure between pump and filter is to have a serious blockage at the filter. That blockage would significantly reduce oil volume downstream of the filter and starve the bearings. A very serious problem.

i was making the point that having too short of a center support tube cannot create a serious blockage. At least that is my opinion.

 

I finally figured it all out. After running all types of chemicals in the fuel system and some in the crankcase and changing out the oil pressure sensor I was getting this high oil Pressure reading well above normal on acceleration, just below 90% of the gauge. The gauge doesn't have numbers it has an (L) Middle tick mark, and an (H). I'm using (H) as a 100% mark......when I accelerated it would be at the 90%, and I know I've never gotten past 60% of that gauge. anyway

My fix was, order a new Oil Pressure sensor (I know the other one was new, but got another one anyway). This time I unscrewed the oil pressure sensor and sprayed throttle body cleaner, just a few bursts into the port hole. replaced with the new sensor......took it out onto the highway and the gauge didn't go past 60% on acceleration. and was under the 50% MidMark on idle and when I was using Cruise control at 70mph.

The fix could be the spraying of the cleaner in the hole. if anyone is having this problem, try spraying out the Oil Pressure sensor port hole, and replacing the sensor. That could have well been where my blockage was....... Thats all Folks.