My 2nd Gen Audio Upgrade Story

I hadn't ever planned on upgrading any of the audio in my truck. I kept telling myself that the stock non jbl system sounds okay enough. Not to mention, I'm no longer blasting music like I did 20 years ago. But then things changed when we upgraded the wife to a used Porsche cayenne in Jan.


It was after driving with a Bose system in the Cayenne, that I tripped and fell down a deep rabbit hole in order to be able to listen to a crisp sounding system in my own rig. Plus I never even knew what I had been missing, not having CarPlay.

So off to the Internet I went in search of upgrades on a budget I hadn't set, but assumed would be modest. I found an android tablet style HU on Amazon that had good reviews and was basically plug and play. $103 and some used refunds later I'm starting the journey. I foolishly thought that would be enough since it would give me CarPlay and update the interior of the RW with a nice 10.1" digital screen. I installed the HU and found that although it did increase the sound volume. It was still lacking the clarity that my wife's system had. So back down the rabbit hole I ventured.



Having never installed any of my previous car audio systems I just started building shopping carts in both crutchfield and sonic electronix. All the while I watched install videos and tried to school myself on what I was undertaking. I eventually whittled it down to the basics. Front and rear door speakers, tweeters, an amp and an all in one underseat amp/sub. After a few weeks of this game I settled on JL audio C1 650 component speakers for the front doors and sail panels. And the C1 650X for the rear doors. Why I eventually chose these speakers was the crutchfield website where you can compare many of their offerings within their website. The compare function allows one to listen to different sets of speakers and really hear the different low, mid and high notes through your own headphones. The price and JL name of these speakers also helped keep everything on my budget once I confirmed they had the sound I was looking for.

I had seen others in the forum use these speakers but crutchfield's website was claiming they wouldn't fit. However, the sonic electronix website said they would. To resolve my confusion I reached out to @AZBoatHauler who I knew already had the 650's and he in fact confirmed they fit. Did I mention that I overanalyze things? So the crutchfield order was sent with a small clarion xc2410 amp that put out 50 watts rms per channel. And since this matched the spec of the C1's, I just threw it on the order for $493 all in. At this point I felt great. I still hadn't pulled the trigger on a sub yet but it was a step in the right direction and I felt like I've kept my budget in check.



After talking with @1lowlife and @Snert about the install, I came to conclude that a nice speaker adapter would help resolve any issues when mounting, as well as reduce rattles. Off to another website that has since been banned here. For another $105 I added rear door speaker adapters and sail panels for the new tweeter location.

To finish the order, I shopped on Amazon for foam speaker rings, sound deadening materials, an amp install kit, and a few install tools I didn't own yet for $128. All that's left on the build and the budget is a sub setup. So I'm hoping to keep my total build price around $1000.

Since I've been waiting for almost a week on the speaker adapters from the banned party to complete my parts pile. Ive been using this time to start overanalyzing my build. And since time isn't something I need here, I've already started having second thoughts on the amp choice, as well as the sub I had been looking at.

Back into more research I've now learned that having one amp for the door speakers and one for the sub, I'd have to run a distribution block for the install. Sound complicated? It is, so I'm busting out some math to ensure that the 2 amps don't pull more from my tundra's alternator and charging system than it will allow. Wait, I'm not that into math, so I'd be guessing that I'm fine if I do keep this current plan in place. But since I also like to over analyze the process, I'm looking at this 5 channel amp https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-169359-Cerwin-Vega-CVP2500.5D.html and a different sub to stay on budget and also keep the install clean and easy. I've been looking at this kicker shallow mount sub enclosure to round everything out. I'm assuming I'm trying to line up the rms spec from the amp to the rms handling spec on the speakers and subs? Not sure what's going to happen next, but that's where I'm at so far.

Stayed tuned for rest of the process and install. Opinions always welcome.

 

I do have a few last questions for anyone that wants to give some advice to a complete audio newb.

1. When I'm looking at the amps rms watts and my speakers handling rms power should they be the same number? I'm seeing a lot of conflicting info on this subject. For example my current speakers handle 50 watts rms and my current amp delivers 50 watts rms across each of the four channels. If I upgraded my amp to the one linked above I would be delivering 65 watts rms across each channel. Some say it's fine to go above the speakers spec, while other's claim you can never have more watts delivered to your speakers than their spec handling power.

2. Wiring 2 amps. If I choose to stick with my current build I'll have 2 amps, wherein I would run a 4 guage ofc positive to a fused distribution block. Then 8 guage positive wires to each amp off the block. How do I know what size fuse I need in that block? Each of the amps would require a 40a fuse according to the manuals.

3. My understanding of running a fuse block is that I run a long run of 4 guage to the block. Then shorter runs from the block to each amp. Doesn't this go against normal thought of having your inline fuse close to the battery? Or would I just install an inline fuse close to the battery on the 4 guage then make my long run to the fuse block?

 

Any updates? I’m thinking of upgrading my door speakers and want to know how your is turning out.

 

I had a hang up with the sail panels I ordered. Originally I ordered taco tunes sail panels but didn't realize they didn't have the holes in them yet for the tweeters. So I sent those back and ordered oem jbl panels so I can mount my tweeters in them. That gave me time to further the rabbit hole and research 2 amp wiring solutions. So I also ordered https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777B8PTD/Sound-Ordnance-B-8PTD.html this and more parts for the install. Still waiting on a few things but once it all gets here I'm hoping our spring weather cooperates and I can get it all installed because I don't have a garage. I'll definitely update once everything else gets here.

 

1. You'll be perfectly fine. If you look at the manual for your speakers, you'll see that is still within JL's recommended power for those speakers.


2. With the distribution block, you'll have two separate fuse, one for each amp. The distribution block (depending on which one you get) will have at least two slots for you to put a fuse in & run the wire to each amp. If the manufacturers recommend 40A for both amps respectively then I would stick with that.

3. I think you might be a little confused. The "fuse block" & "inline fuse" are the same thing. You want to have this inline fuse block as close to the battery as possible. From there, you'll make your long run to your distribution block, where the run will split into two to each of your amplifiers.
You'll want to add the amperage of your fuses at the distribution block to determine the size of your inline fuse: 40A + 40A = 80A

 

As a newb in this department I appreaciate your clarification here. I was confused myself until I found this guys YouTube channel. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0H005TcKHKo And after more digging through his explanations on how to set everything up, this what I ended up ordering.
https://www.knukonceptz.com/product/in-line-4-8-gauge-mini-anl-fuse-holder-with-fuse/

https://www.knukonceptz.com/product...auge-mini-anl-fuse-distribution-ground-block/

I'll install the inline 60 amp fuse close to the battery on 4 gauge wire. And continue running the 4 gauge wire into the cab and under the driver seat where I'll attach the fuse distribution block. From there I'll make runs of 8 guage wire to the 2 different amps. One to the Clarion xc2410 amp coming off a 40 amp fuse in the block. The other to a sound ordanance B-8PTD active sub enclosure on a 20 amp fuse in the block. Can't wait for everything to get here so I can tear it all apart, and get into the install.

 

Looks like you got it figured out. Good luck!!!

 

Thanks. Just waiting on the oem jbl sail panels for the tweeter relocation to ship.

 

Finally. Jbl sail panels in route.

 

I think I bumped into you in the rabbit hole. Way too many choices out there. I’m also building an upgraded stereo setup. It’s funny how you get excited about a part and before it gets to there, you have done more research and it is now a return. While all the time blowing the budget. You are ahead of me on the install, I’m going to spend a bit more time researching everything. So it looks like you’ll be jamming in no time.

 

Truth be told it was @Shanet421 when he posted how cheap those android HU's are. That was the edge of the abyss that I fell into. Good luck in your quest to upgrade everything. For some reason I'm still waiting on my sub but I'm going to start tearing everything apart and route all the wires for the amp. I'll also install the door speakers and the sound deadening this week because we have projected weather to accommodate my shade tree install. Excited to get all these parts off my shelf and into the truck.

 

Slow going these days but almost have all my parts. These finally showed up today.



also got all my hardware from knukoncepts. Still waiting on my sub.