What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'm getting a code for the upstream bank 2 o2 sensor. Do I really need to replace the other 3 at the same time?

 

@rock climber Im not sure if what I did was correct, but i got a code for a downstream 02 sensor a couple years ago. Replaced only that one and havent had any issues since.

 

I'll admit, when I bought my truck, stock suspension was shot, and I made the mistake of putting Monroes on it... Anyway, today I made it right and put some Bilstein 4600s on it. The Monroes were definitely too floaty...

Also changed the oil and rotated the tires.

 

I'd at least consider replacing them in pairs (i.e. both upstream sensors)...kinda like you do headlight bulbs. RockAuto has OEM Denso sensors for your 2000 AC 4x4 for under $50 each.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...38,exhaust+&+emission,oxygen+(o2)+sensor,5132

 

Replace in pairs, but do upstream/downstream (per bank) same time.

They work in tandem with one another, so if you're replacing one, just replace them both so you don't end up with stupid shit like cat inefficiency codes because one is reading fresh/new, the other is potentially reading old/off.

Or if you just want to do this once and not touch for another 15-20 years, just replace them all, and you should never pop another O2 sensor code for the next lifetime of the vehicle.

 

That's the general description we get. "Too soft, squishy, floaty" etc.

 

Those monroes are the worst. I made the same mistake in my pre-forum days.

 

Today went pretty well, just puttsin along.
Only hiccups were not being able to find big Debra, and then finding a short 22mm in half drive. Ended up using a CHROME 7/8” got the water pump on and called it a day.
Tomorrow I’ll start slapping pulleys on and get to the timing belt, probably button up everything on Sunday depending how tomorrow goes

 

Surprise Feb Hand wash and wax.

 

Lower ball joints were last replaced at dealership in '08 because of recall. Haven't been done since. Dealership serviced again in 2012 @ 67k: timing belt, drive belt, seals, water pump, rear diff service, spark plugs. Haven't been done since. O2 sensor in 2020, another one 2023. Radiator replaced 5 -10 years ago.

Until 3 months ago, I had lived downtown since 1997, with only street parking. So my 18 years of owning it was there. I noticed oil drops on the driveway of this new place about 6 weeks ago. Along with high idle, lacking power, slow to shift mostly between 3rd and 4th, louder engine, and entire underside coated with oil. I spent hours underneath taking videos, going online, finding this site, reading most of it, degreasing engine by hand and at a bay. Then took it in. Today I replaced the air filter (Denso) and cleaned the throttle body. I have a Standard Motor Products PCV valve to install. Ordered a Bosch fuel filter and Delphi MAF sensor. Truck now has 146k miles.

Attached is what was just done.

 

That's a serious list. Does seem reasonable price-wise though. Glad you're working through that stuff now, before something really breaks. It's easy to get into the "it's a Toyota, it'll be fine!" mentality, when it really needs just as much attention as any other car. I'm guilty of it myself.

You probably know, and if others haven't told you already, you're still overdue for a timing belt service and possibly lower ball joints too. I'd look into doing a few "drain & fill"s on the transmission, which could improve your shifting issue. And another thing- I wouldn't use the Delphi MAF sensor unless you're positive that your current one is bad. The quality of aftermarket parts, especially sensitive electrical stuff like sensors, is nowhere near OEM quality.

Keep us updated!

 

Added a whip to the truck, cant wait to try it out in the desert

 

Get a Hitachi MAF sensor from Rockauto. OEM manufacturer and cheaper than everywhere else I could find it

 

Hey @daveeasa , I did just realize that part of @shifty` 's DIR install instructions are not going to work for my dad's 03 AC Stepside because the tail light assembly mounts in a completely different way. Do you know of anyone here with a stepside that installed your kit? If not, I'll be sure to take photos and document my solution for that part of the install and then share it here. TIA!

EDIT: Here are photos for reference.

 

Thanks. I saw someone recommended the Hitachi on here during my search. I didn't see any mention of it in the So You Want to be a 1st Gen . . . thread. I haven't see anything about Delphi MAF's being problematic.

I have a somewhat loose relationship with Rockauto, similar to the one I have with the Feds. I mostly use their site to get a part number, and find it elsewhere. Rockauto has a darn near fraudulent return policy that is difficult to use. Their computerized one size fits all approach does not, and cannot contemplate every scenario for every part, the parts within that part, and all the facts regarding why it must be returned. And nobody to contact about their gaff. You accept what the Rockauto computer declares, or you can f off. I've been through it before. There's entire websites and forums devoted to it. I'll use them as a last resort, partly on principal.

The more expensive Delphi MAF I'm waiting on from a highly rated, long standing, ebay seller is an example. I can return it the day it gets here, no questions asked, with the click of a button. And get the Hitachi from Rockauto. But trying to return that to Rockauto would require a lengthy question and answer process that would end up with their computer declaring they did nothing wrong, there's nothing defective with the part, doesn't qualify for a return, and no way to contact anyone regardless of the reason. That is by design.

Shoot, I can get the correct Hitachi or the Denso the shop recommended, via Walmart with free shipping and free 90 day returns. Perhaps I'll do that. Save 30 bucks.

 

Look. Delphi is (or at least was) a quality brand. They supplied a number of OEM parts. The sad reality of the market today is two-fold:

1. Part quality has declined extraordinarily since the turn of the century, to the point that most non-OEM parts are made as cheaply as possible, because consumers have proven they will pay for shitty parts. Many brands are actually the exact same part, in a different box, all sourced from the same sweatshop warehouse in mainland China or India, with little to no quality control (QC) or quality assurance (QA). They've shifted the burden of quality testing to the consumer, and if they find failure is happening at an extraordinary rate, the Fed usually demands a recall. This isn't how the market was when I was younger and parts were made in the USA - you made parts to last, because your name, your brand, your reputation depended on it. Sweatshops overseas DGAF about it, their name isn't on the part, someone else is boxing it once it comes off the boat.
2. Counterfeit/knockoffs. There are too many online vendors who with zero interest in whether the vendors warehousing products in their shared stock bins, or vendors selling through their websites are supplying authentic products. scAmazon, fleaBay, and Walmart are at the top of this list, but currently Sears/Kmart, Home Depot, NewEgg, are all in the same boat, allowing unvetted 3rd parties to sell at their site. You cannot trust buying parts from these sources, regardless of who their website "says" is fulfilling it. The product is not vetted. I've gotten counterfeit/whitebox parts dozens of times from scAmazon specifically for everything from appliance parts, auto parts, small engine parts, consumer electronics, you name it. I've also gotten grey market stuff several times, i.e. product that, when you call in for service, they can't track the product because it wasn't made for the USA market, it was made for another country which has lesser quality and/or price point, and it got resold here for profit. Others have bought bagged products with legit looking stickers for Toyota parts "Made in China" that are clearly not OEM, but the stickers look authentic as hell!

You DO NOT have to buy OEM parts direct from Toyota or a dealership, you'll get robbed if you walk up to a parts counter and order directly, we have a sticky thread that covers that topic. There are several name brands who make for our trucks that are "OEM", i.e. the original equipment manufacturer wasn't Toyota, it was another brand. Much of the driveline, drive shafts, u-joints, carrier bearing, etc. is all Spicer/Dana. Much of the mechanical parts are made by Aisin. Much of the electronics/sensors are made by Denso. Hitachi makes the MAF for the V8 in our trucks. There are some parts like radio stuff made by Fujitsu, Pioneer, or JBL. Toyota technically has stake in some of those comanies (Fujitsu, Denso, Aisin, and one or two others) but Toyota isn't "making" the parts.

We've heard mixed experiences. It's a family-owned business and I've been shopping with them for 20+ years now. It's not ideal. You can't get a human. But they absolutely have the cheapest prices on parts you can find. But 80% of the brands they sell are going to be the same shitty parts you'll find at every local auto parts store, albeit sometimes for twice the cost.

That said, I would urge you to shift your buying to Summit Racing. Not only is the customer service stellar in comparison, their prices are virtually always within 10% of RockAuto, both stores usually beat scAmazon's pricing without the counterfeit risk, and they typically offer free shipping on any appreciable order amount, and give you Summit Bucks to take a little off as you go.

I'm glad you feel confident that fleaBay seller vets their inventory and doesn't get it from sketchy places. If they're based anywhere in CA or OR or NY or FL or TX near a major port, do your research. Those are the places where fleaBay sellers are getting much of their fraudulent/grey market merch.

I see RA has the Hitachi unit for $57.89, and it looks like Summit has it for $64.99.

That said, I've bitched to high hell on here about how you can't get a human at RA, but after 20 years of shopping with them, they've never denied me a return, nor failed to credit me. And twice in the last 5 years, they've returned parts that were clearly outside the return period when they didn't have to, and one time, they let me keep a functioning but cosmetically damaged $200+ part, then overnighted me a replacement, even though the carrier was to blame.

"It is what it is". I've always been cool with their people after waiting 24 hours to get them and never let my temper get the better of me, and they've always been cool.

 

Got the tailgate clip upgrade done on dad's 03 AC stepside. Doing this made me realize that he has an aftermarket handle on the tailgate. It's black matte plastic. The insides of that thing looked far worse than the 02. So, we pulled and cleaned the lock cylinder and handle on it, too. It was a perfect false-spring day to get dad outside doing something while he's getting used to the new knee joint. We brought out a shop chair that was the right height to sit at the tailgate and work.

Here's everything lubed and reassembled

 

Understood. I'll check them out. My purchase of the air filter and pcv valve were through RA. Using the Toyota parts link on here, it appears I have a June 2004 production date VIN. Does that mean I need the higher priced

$70 MAF0048 Mass Air Flow Sensor

MAF0048 "To 08/2004" part on RA's site? If so, getting the correct MAF sensor with that level of granularity must be a problem for anyone who bought it elsewhere. Like I just did.

To your point, and to vastly overestimate your interest, a recent ebay purchase was counterfeit. I'm partial to the original Gillette Good News disposable razors. Not the Sensor stuff, 5 blades, disgusting lubricating strip nobody asked for, etc. A couple years ago, I noticed they were scarce at the grocery stores. So I emptied an entire shelf into my cart and was good for 2 years. When I ran out, I found some on Ebay and bought $77 worth. All fake, not even close, couldn't use them. So I hit the return button and got a refund, no questions asked. I lucked out and found the real deal on Amazon. They're magnificent.

 

Loaded mine up a few times with weeds, branches and brush.

 

Ah shit, I forgot they did change the MAF part-way thru the 1st gen series.

While I trust the systems in place, go to your driver door. On the door jamb, like physically on your driver door (look where the latch opening is, just below it) find your VIN sticker. What does the manufacture date say on it?

You're really close to the cutoff, but yeah, here's the page for your air stuff, for your exact truck.: http://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck30/3848/engine/1703/?frame_no=5TBRT34124S453664

That pulls up (more words after this picture):

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If I go to Hitachi's part search website: https://www.hitachiastemo.com/en/products/aftpro/parts_search/pnc.html

And I plug that in, it shows Toyota's x-ref# is the MAF 48 part number. And here it is @SUMMIT: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hta-maf0048

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And if you're not in Alabama, my preferred dealership can get the part shipped to you in a Toyota box after tax and shipping for $96.61 @ https://autoparts.serratoyota.com/products/product/meter-sub-assy-inta-222040f010

FYI: Their special 25% off discount is only for a few days. It's always no-tax for non-AL residents, and free ship over like $60 or something. So that $96.61 price is exactly what you'll pay for the "OEM" part, direct from Toyota, out the door. It'll potentially beat everyone else's price due to the stacking discounts, or at least come close to 10% away. I guarantee you won't get the part cheaper at any local dealership, they'll probably be closer to the $130 price range shown in red at the bottom if you order online from anyone. MSRP at the parts counter will be what most places charge you, a full $183.12 which is highway robbery.

We have a lot of little tips and tricks like this to get OEM parts direct from Toyota. Stick around, we'll save you money/headaches.

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It's not my Tundra, but I finished up my VC gasket job on my Camry today.

 

Can't tag you on mobile, but I was only confident about doing the Camry job because of shiftys knowledge and help on the Tundra.

I do appreciate you.

 

Well today didn’t go as planned AT ALL! I pulled a @Weagle and stripped the tensioner pulley hole with about 10ftlbs of finger yoga…….
Big shout out to him/her and @shifty` and @Bootsy for helping me out with info and confidence!!! Also in my scurry to find parts and solutions I found out that front cover”oil pump”,basically the engine needs to be pulled because you have to pull the oil pan to do it……. NG for me
I luckily have some great friends that are more mechanically inclined that I am, took a few parts stores until we found one with the right size helicoil. I got some bushings at one stop to help guide us in square and plum……. Not sure if it helped or not but we succeeded!!!!!! I got more done in 30 minutes with my buddy than I did all day by myself(I stripped the tensioner hole first thing this morning) also we got the belt on and aligned in 30 seconds vs 3 minutes of struggling in the videos?…….. everything is lined up proper and the tensioner needs to be torqued down in the morning…….
I’m almost certain I didn’t @mangleord the hole, probably from the previous wp swap of the original owner, it felt tight and bound up when I pulled the bolt the other ther day……
I won’t rush tomorrow as I’ve got a bike or a backup ride incase I don’t finish the job

 

great news. Just don't fret if that tensioner bracket does not move freely. There's an easy solution

 

I was telling my buddy about your situation and we almost thought the same thing when we finger tightened the bolt, the tensioner wasn’t moving freely, he questioned the washer but I told him it’s a must, we torqued it down and it moved with minimal yoga techniques

 

It's really gotta move freely with no resistance for the tensioner to hold that timing belt taught

 

Make sure you don't forget that one bolt on the A/C compressor stuff

They make you do FIPG here and on the two spots on the backside, similar to our cam tower spots?

 

Yup, exactly the same spots. I used a q-tip this time. It was a bit of a bitch seeing behind the cam tower since it's sloped to the rear.

 

This is likely the first step side. If you need length adjustments, let me know.