Turbo Charging A Tundra!

I procrastinated on that AEM install until it was the last thing standing. Be happy you are doing it now while your brain is still fresh.

For anyone running the water/methanol, I strongly encourage this be one of the first things that gets done. After the wiring and heat tape (assuming you are in a colder climate during a colder season), everything else is really straight forward and almost color-by-number easy. The firewall install and the bed install for the pump certainly makes sense and I'd probably have gone with one of those options had I thought about it at the time.

 

None of it is overly complicated or hard. The wiring is straight forward and going down the passenger side of the truck definitely gives plenty of extra harness length. But yes, the meth system is definitely the part that takes the most brain power to make it look good and functional. If I didn’t have a cat in the way, I’d have just followed the instructions that come with the kit and mounted the pump on the driver frame rail and it would have been just fine that way. There’s even plenty of harness to pull into the cab and over to the glovebox going down the driver side.

On another note, anything special I need to know before I tackle the injectors? How do I bleed the pressure off the rails? I’ve got this

$9 smilfuy Fuel Line Plier, Quick Disconnect Release Removal Tool, Petrol Hose Pipe Clamp Clip with Handle, Universal Fuel Line Clip Removal Plier, Pipe Clip Repair Tool for Most Cars (Green)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CV3FTDXL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title to help pop the fuel lines off. Any tips or tricks?

The injectors and oil pan are my two big projects left. The exhaust stuff is just exhaust stuff and I’m already mentally prepared to deal with the nuts on the manifold studs fighting me the whole way.

 

Jesse will need to chime in on that, though I suspect you're overthinking that part of it.

He did my injectors at the fabrication shop as part of the autopsy of the Stage 1 kit after a full towing season/Stage 2 upgrade. While I understand the process of the pump/injectors, I have not done them myself. Everything else we have discussed outside of those two things I have been hands-on for.

This should help put your mind at ease: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v-twrdfx078

 

Remove the fuel lines from the front and back of the rails/fpr, you'll leak a bit there. Disconnect the MAIN harness connector on each rail, don't worry about trying to disconnect each injector until you have the rails out. Remove the 2 bolts on each rail and pull the rail, injector and harness out as one piece. Look into the head / inj ports for the big rubber orings, you may need a pick tool to get them out and some maybe stuck to the stock injectors still. I usually take some electrical tape and tape a straw to the end of my shop vac and then clean up any and all debris around the injector ports. Hit it with some break clean, wipe it down and let is sit while you swap injectors on the rails. Once you have the rails out, there will be fuel in the rails, be prepared with a bucket or pig mat. Since the rails have lines connected to both ends, you can just turn the rail on end and it'll empty out pretty quick. Using brake clean and a rag, clean up the rails where the injectors mount of any debris. Install injectors one by one using the "superlube" on all of the orings. I like to put some on the thick nozzle side oring as well, as it will hold it in place on the injector as you are re-installing the rails. Once you have the injectors in and connected, try to push them up flush, so they are pointing in the correct direction and evenly inj to inj. Reinstall the rails. The injectors need to be perfectly in line to drop into the port, so just watch each one as you are putting the rail in place, once they are lined up, it'll drop right in. Reinstall the bolts, lines and harness connections and voila... It'll take a few cranks to fire. Keep an eye out for leaks. Once verified, you are good to go.

 

Injectors are fairly straight forward but Murphy has a habit of stopping by on my projects.

 

You make it sound so simple I almost believe it.

 

You can remove the Fuel Pump relay, crank the engine and let it die from lack of fuel pressure, then remove the lines. This will relieve the pressure, but there will still be some fuel in the lines that will need to be caught with a rag.

 

It's not hard at all, Ive swapped them on the side of the road, testing various things through the development years. I got pretty good at it. Just make sure you move things out of the way so the rail doesn't get caught on them coming out or going in (frustrating when it does)... There are a few EVAP / electrical connectors and some lines and hoses, but they easily swing out of the way. Probably the hardest section is the passenger side, rear portion of the rail. The harness / bulkhead is back there and makes it harder to maneuver.

 

And no tap needed for the oil pan right? Just drill it and the fitting will self thread? I've got FIPG already.

 

Correct, it's an NPT fitting, so it's tapered, and the pan is thin enough for it to make it's way through. A bit of RTV on the back threads before your final few cranks will seal everything up nicely.

 

How bout this for the meth system?

 

Ha Ha YES!!!

 

I mean, if you are going custom switches, then this is just loaded with great options:

https://youtu.be/FVmbwW2MYsM

 

It works. I can see IATs drop quickly when my intercooler gets misted.

 

Switch ordered. Pump mounted and wired. Only little thing left is the remote LED and I just haven’t landed on a spot for it yet. Gonna run some errands and then start soaking exhaust bolts in penetrating oil.

 

Nice! Thanks for the feedback. I am considering to add it. Not there yet, but maybe that can be the begining of stage 3.

 

Opinions/feedback about weld-in bung like this?

 

Yes if you can weld you can absolutely weld a bung to the pan. It would be hard as a "kit" to require someone to get it welded, so we opt for the thread in type. But if you want, absolutely go for it.

 

I would imagine you would have to run distilled water or something else or you would get mineral deposits on your components.

Reading the comments it is the same tech used on swamp coolers so with that in mind if you live in a high humidity environment you wont get much benefit from this set up.

 

Here in PR the avg humidity is 79%, what you consider high?

 

Thinking it through some more it probably won't matter considering how much hotter the IC will be in relation to the air temp and you'll be spraying while moving.

 

The injectors were easier than the meth kit.

 

hardest part is seating them back in. Just have to wiggle it around a bit

 

Ya you’d get 2 out of the 4 and then wiggle the other two and pop one of the first out and back and forth. Was surprised how much wiggling they had when seated. The ones on my Holley terminator are TIGHT. These just popped right in and out.

 

Well been waiting on my friend Murphy to stop by and he came right about when I figured. Last nut on the manifold next to the transmission puck stripped its threads right at the end and is now just spinning on the stud. All the rest came right out with zero effort. Awesome.

 

That sucks. Jesse had the part numbers. They replaced them on mine just because they had been on/off a few times and one of them had the threads start looking a little worse for wear. I think he said that Toyota even had the studs in stock.

 

Oil pan is done. Injectors are done. Brake lines moved. Exhaust is out. Found replacement studs at o’reilly’s. Im still pissed. It’s the last two threads that are trashed. I can almost thread a nut on to them. Bought some nuts to weld on and try to back it out. I tried vice grips and ended up with a smashed thumb. If it wasn’t for that, I’d have at least gotten the cross over installed today. Ignore the brass fitting in the photo. Realized after the pic it was the wrong fitting.

 

Nice progress! Did you apply any sealant to the fitting? In the picture, looks like it doesn't have.

 

The picture doesn’t but I did for final install.

 

From my part, I am building a custom go kart for my kids and as soon as I finish it, will resume the turbo kit install project.