What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Friendly’s Fribble.

 

Thanks! I didn’t even notice that.

 

You're just a post whore!

At least you give good info. Most of my post are talking shit or memes.

 

Couple more hiccups when starting (cold). Starting with a little work on my ground cable today. Didn't see any corrosion, but I didn't like how it was exposed.
Added a little upgraded body ground while I was in there. Soldered and shrink wrapped the lugs.


Little beefier body ground with some 8G I used to run to a sub panel out in my wife's SheShed.
Good thing I made it a bit long. See where the old ground bolt broke right the F off


The insulation on the main ground was HYPER sensitive, I was even being careful! Oh well. Good layer of electrical tape and send it.


Happy with it. FluidFilmed it and shut the hood.


Idle relearn completed, radio presets and preferences programed, phone re-connected

 

I have to do the valve cover gasket on the Camry now. Good thing I have very recent experience to apply. The Camry seems much easier than the Tundra.

 

Man, that's the one thing I miss about the two '92-'95 Honda Civics I had and most of the GM pickups bitd, pop off the valve cover, slide a new gasket on, pop valve cover back on. I'll never fathom why they gotta make it so damn hard.

 

Anyone looked at CV axles recently? I called a local dealership to see about the 43430-0c010-84 reman part number. Was surprised when they said they showed limited inventory of new part 43430-0c010.

The Serra Toyota guys also said they showed new available for local pickup, but it wasn’t showing as available on their website and they would email Toyota about it for online orders.

The weird part about the reman from the local dealer was they said the part number was 000168x088. But they said it was definitely a Toyota axle. Ehhh???

Curious what other people have seen. If I missed something more recent in the threads, my apologies. I don’t have an immediate need, but PO put non Toyota axles on it so I don’t want to keep those long term

 

For sure! The videos I watched made it look very easy. All I had to order tool-wise was a 30mm socket.

What was that brake cleaner that you used for the VC?

 

Brakleen, chlorine-free edition (green can). They have it at most LAPS. I try to keep 2-3 cans in the shop at all time. It's great at removing brake dust and oil. Will pull oil out of concrete too.

 

How come you picked those specifically? I'm not familiar with them. I've wanted to try Duro bumps but they are pricey too.

 

I need to do the Rav4. Is Felpro a good aftermarket option? I'm still on my original Valve cover gaskets on the Tundra(as far as I know). They don't leak so I'm in no hurry to replace them.

 

Brent recommend them, so I went with it. I’ve heard good things about duros too

 

With how cheap the gaskets are, I just go OEM.

 

You do both front and back bumps? Or just one of them?

 

Just the back set(per instructions)

 

Hey guys,
I wanted to drop a little bit of money saving advice. I finally started getting a misfire from my cracked ignition coils. I don't have theoney to buy new ones, but I smeared liquid electrical tape onto the cracks (2 layers) and I've since taken the truck on a decent road trip with no issues. I hope others can benefit from this! I don't have any pics from the job unfortunately, but it was pretty simple. I let them dry overnight before reinstallation too.

 

I forgot you had the solos now. Me and Casey were taking about doing mine weekend after next.

 

They are a little noisy, make sure you grease them well or add grease zerks

 

I'm used to noisey. Elvira has poly upper and lower bushings and Penelope's got poly uppers and the oem lowers are shot. Squeaky squeaky

 

Someone cross-cut a Denso coilpack on here and showed pics. It clearly showed (to me at least) they're solid all the way thru, and a little crack on the outside isn't going to cause a misfire. The composition of material wouldn't allow it, and the conductive part carrying voltage down to the plug is buried so deep to the core, it seems virtually impossible.

I've been using Felpro all my years before Tundra ownership. They're one of the few brands I'd trust in a pinch, almost exclusively. That said, I'd still prefer OEM, so I have higher confidence the replacement part will last as long as the original.

 

@Thrussn here's the sauce: https://www.tundras.com/threads/tiny-ignition-coil-cracks.112952/#post-3772949

For those too lazy to click:

​

 

So how's this work ... voltage down the middle but is that copper concentric circles and metal right before the outer cracked sleeve or is it all colored plastics?

 

It’s basically a transformer with an outer primary and an inner secondary. The metal core is for the magnetic flux to pass though.

 

So besides the center which of the other concentric circles is the outer conductive secondary...the next outward copper windings from the center?

 

When I did the 12/9/2024 oil and filter change on the 02 AC LTD 4x4 4.7L, I noticed a tiny bit of oil clinging to the bottom of the drain plug. As I mentioned then, I discovered that the drain plug was less than finger tight. Oil had been slowly dripping around the plug and the airflow had been distributing it to various downwind parts. I drained the oil, installed a new drain plug washer, and torqued it to 20 lb-ft because 29 lb-ft seemed too much like trying to strip it. A little later, I saw evidence of another small oil leak where I parked the Tundra. At first, I thought maybe there was still residual oil dripping from the frame, so I wiped it up and waited. The small spots reappeared on the garage floor. Then I thought maybe I had screwed up and double-gasketed the thing.

Today, I finally gave it a good look. There was no oil on the skid plate below the filter. Woo hoo! I crawled underneath and checked the drain plug. It felt solid, but again there was a tiny bit of oil clinging to the bottom of the drain plug. I grabbed the torque wrench, set it to 25 lb-ft, and tightened the plug. I wiped oil off the plug and pan and everything in the vicinity.

It does look like the passenger side valve cover gasket is leaking a little, but I don't think that oil is making below the exhaust manifold. Any ideas on the source of the leak? Maybe I should put it on the ramps again and check around the oil pan gasket...maybe try torquing those bolts. And whatever you say, I don't want to hear "rear main seal"!

 

check you power steering reservoir hoses for weeping. I had a leak I just figured out. thought it was value cover or rear main seal.

 

It’s typically the one with the greatest number of windings since it’s a step up transformer. I would think for safety concerns and possibly for lower loss, it’s the inner winding that’s the secondary. To be sure, I’d look at the specification for the part. I’m also sure it complies with the design of most other coils out there, so any detailed tutorials on automotive electronics would answer that.

 

Fine. “Cam seal”. There, I didn’t say it. But seriously, while it may be cam seals …

Trace it upstream. Wipe off the entire oil pan with a towel to remove residual traces. White paper towel after 1-2 hours. Take it and wipe 1-2” at a time around the vertical perimeter of the pan to see where it’s coming from.

Remember, the back each head has two half-moon plugs sealed in with FIPG and are the only thing stopping oil leaking down the back of the block. FIPG doesn’t last forever and our valve covers love to leak too. Check your VC bolts are tight. 53 INCH LBs if memory serves. So just less than 5 FT LBS. When I helped @Dakillacore do his last weekend, a couple of his were definitely loose.

Get a mirror. Look around the block. But more importantly look at the fucking oil dipstick all the way down and see if it’s coated in oil. That’s likely how it’s reaching the pan, dude. The dipstick tube is anchored to the block with a support right at the base of the driver side valve cover, which is a common leak spot. The corner of the cam tower right there gets FIPG’d too.