P0335 Crankshaft position sensor and his camshaft friends

Hello all,

07 Tundra 5.7l 298k 2wd. I don't think I've seen a solution to this issue. Most start, but don't come back to update any resolution. I don't have one at this time, but I'm dealing with this issue at the time. It is completely random, so it is difficult to troubleshoot as previous posters have stated. Most of the time it catches me with my pants down, so I can't troubleshoot the issue at the moment due to me needing to be somewhere, or my kids are with me, curtailing my available time to play with it.

I'm getting all the position sensor codes. Assuming the codes are being triggered by a no start issue. The most common thing I've noticed is heat, usually occurs on a hot day 90 degrees or hotter, while driving for an hour or more. Stopping the engine and attempting to restart it within a minute of turning it off, it will fail to start, sometimes it can sit longer and fail to start. I do get a click and nothing else. I don't think I hear the fuel pump running either. I do get the red car with key, meaning immobilized. It does happen with both keys, black one and spare key. Another thing I've noticed is the idle at full stop will drop from the 800rpm to about 560rpm and will hover there it also triggers shifting issues as if it's hunting for gears.

P0335 is the only confirmed code and does come with a CEL.
These are pending codes here
P0335 Crankshaft Position sensor 'A' circuit
P0340 Camshaft Position sensor 'A' circuit bank 1
P0345 Camshaft Position sensor 'A' circuit bank 2
P0365 Camshaft Position sensor 'B' circuit bank 1
P0390 Camshaft Position sensor 'B' circuit bank 2
P0894 transmission component slipping

I've previously replaced: starter with a TYC unit, its about 6 years old about 80k miles, Starter relay and replaced the Crankshaft position sensor with an Import direct aftermarket unit. Assuming there was nothing wrong with the OEM one, I dropped it back in, idle was good for a month good idle and no failed starts, but now I'm back at a low idle and so far 1 failed start. Assuming its a wiring problem, I still have to test the wiring, check the flex plate and possibly consider a dying PCM. Both CPS units tested within spec, so I'm considering replacing the wire to the PCM, but I'll test all other avenues first.

 

An update with this, I haven't gotten a failed start in about 3 weeks, maybe a little more... I did get some progress, which I'm now getting a sole P0010 Which is Camshaft A circuit open. Which is what I was suspecting, a short somewhere in the wire. This is a brand-new confirmed code as of this morning, but no CEL. On another note I almost overheated my transmission yesterday, it was 111 while going through the drive-thru at innout... I was hitting the gas intermittently, but I forgot that the transmission cooler doesn't have a fan on it... It got pretty close to red, we had to pull over for about 3 minutes and let it cool down. There was light traffic, but stop lights were synched for traffic as I caught my 2nd red light in a row, I pulled into a side road and let it cool off... Once I restarted it remained within normal operating temperature.

 

Updating this... I've had a few issues again... I'm getting no click no start, click no start. So, I switched Bank 1 Camshaft A with B. It appeared it went away for a bit and came back. It's been few and far between and it's caught me with my pants down every time.

Heat soak is probably not an issue at that moment as it's cold AF, it got down to the 30's, at the moment and it's still doing it.

I want to test a few things that I've been reading, to get a better handle on what's going on...

Either way, last Sunday I was almost stranded with the fam on the East side of town. Truck refused to start. Again, caught with my pants down and just had to sit there and take the wife's nagging about it being a POS... This one got me mad, since it wasn't responding to anything, no click no nothing, the dash wasn't even dimming. I did notice a delay in the fuel sending unit before it came to life. I popped the hood and tapped on the relay and pulled the start fuse. I flipped the fuse around and put it back in and it started right up. On Tuesday I went to AutoZone and bought a starter relay. I know I should buy Denso, but by the time I figure out if it is, or isn't, I can return this relay and go back to the original one. That evening, I got the same click and no start failure, with a new relay. So, I'm ruling the relay out for now, but I'm daily driving it to force the issue. So far, I'm testing random start, shut off and restart and so far I'm not getting any failed starts. I ordered a separate part from Toyota, since aftermarket and OEM are about a $10 difference, so I'm waiting the part to arrive in the meantime I have a wire and other wire chasing tools to try and chase down this failure.

 

Will it start if you jump the starter solenoid directly? Solenoid trigger wire is in tight?

 

Haven't tested this yet, since I kept forgetting to pull the jumper wire I use in the Celica.

Since Tuesday evening I have a separate wire ready and now its behaving as it should..

Still want to test a neutral start.
It does appear like power is not getting to where it needs to. For example, when my starter died. The dash and all lights dimmed/turned off and it came back on and nothing would happen. Right now, nothing is dimming all dash lights remain on, but it does nothing. Like its not grounding properly or at all.

 

I had a no start with those camshaft codes. I was able to get at the solenoid wire and givevit a push. It started right up. Haven't had the issue since then. But I have been following as I don't like seeing no starts! I was wondering about internal wire corroding apart?

 

Got it to fail to start. Neutral Safety switch can be ruled out as its not starting in Neutral. I've replaced the relay with the OEM relay. Aftermarket one looks wet after a couple of days, still failed to start.


Tried jumping via wire I'm getting no engagement from the starter whatsoever. Not even clicking, so I'm starting to suspect solenoid wire as well.

@Mdl hiw did you get to the wire?

 

That randomness sounds like a wiring issue. Is there a separate harness junction for those sensors?

Could be physical damage to the harness from a rodent or chafing, but could also be a corrosion, ground or connector pin tension problem.

 

Per the diagram, all 5 share a wire to the ECU. Blue wire from the crankshaft to the ECU, pin 62, if I remember correctly.. there doesn't appear to be any wiring damage from the loom, chaffing, possibly.

 

I'm also assuming wiring, but the starter not getting a signal leads me to believe its an ignition problem.

 

I've taken my long tubes out several times and my heat shielding is kinda wonky. My hand was a bit scared up but I wasn't calling a tow truck. I was able to jostle it. It started so that was my indication of the wire. I still need to pull the LT's to see about a solution.

 

I have a borescope, probably a good idea to see what's up in there.... I'll be willing to replace that wire, but I'd have to pull it out first and verify and I'll have to time it right.

 

sometime you can gat damaged insulation or connections in the wire bundle.

if you have a pinout diagram for connections, check all your connections and tension of terminals all the way back to the ECU. If there is silicone/dielectric grease present, remove it with contact cleaner. In some (rare) cases, dielectric grease can mess with signals. I doubt this is the case here, but wouldn’t hurt to remove it.

 

This was on TS or TT from a while back that had similar issue.

 

damn, so what you're saying is I gotta pull that starter out... lol.. I was watching another youtube video and it did state something similar, but this was the wire had gone bad on the starter end. Which is my dread tbh... forgot to submit this.

It was cold af this weekend (35), so I didn't pull the starter. Question I'm having is, if it was the wire, why would it start consecutively before and after refusing to start. Seems like more of a contact issue. Possibly the immobilizer, this morning the vss took a dump in my SC, so I'm back on starting roulette with Bertha. I'm on the 6th start with no fail. Only 4 more before it may fail. 1 over it's recently 5 starts before failing.

I'm starting a new test sequence, where I let the immobilizer turn off before I start it, and so far its starting.

 

It's been 6 days since my last bellyache, lol, my gas lid spring snapped and bought the $8 Amazon spring and replaced it this morning it's also back as my daily since I'm awaiting parts on the SC, and just like that my project Celica is the most reliable car in my stable... lol.

I've been letting the immobilizer rule my life and turning over the truck with the door open until this morning. I got a full tank of gas and I did the same procedure except I closed my door before I started and it failed to start. I want to say my horn started honking before I pulled the key out and reinserted and it started on the second try, technically the 3rd try.

So, I'm awaiting the pigtail for the starter and will throw some parts at it, but I'm pretty sure the immobilizer is tripping, but I'm not getting any codes for it.


Edit: the door sensor wiring may be the issue here... right at the jam...

 

Hmm. The immobilizer/wiring sounds interesting. Good luck!

 

How did you turn off the immobilizer ? Just for future reference. Does the immobilizer remain off when the door is kept open ?

 

immobilizer is not off... I'm no tech nor mechanic nor electrician, but I'm going to be full of assumptions here. If the circuit is being shorted out when the door was closed due to wire chaffing and an intrusion message was sent to the immobilizer and blocking off the ECU and rejecting the key transponder as I'm getting a no click no start. My 1st clue to the immobilizer was that in a previous no click no start I couldn't force jump start it via the starter relay. When I inserted the wire there was no click, no start just a whirring sound, which in this case would be the fuel pump flooding the engine. My understanding is the signal is sent from the ignition to the starter relay to the immobilizer, to the NSS to the ECU to the starter, which would be needed for the engine to start. I haven't seen a sensor on the driver door lock so I would assume that either the ignition transponder would need to be strong enough to acquire the key transponder from the door and disengaging the immobilizer from that point forward or there is a wire that sends a signal to the key transponder and the immobilizer to begin interrogation of the key in question and disengage the immobilizer.

Additional reading into the security system is that it would need a 10 minute cycle to reset the immobilizer which some people will need to do. Other ways to reset the immobilizer is to hang the key on the door lock for 30 minutes. So, I'm starting on the door wiring to figure out if there is an issue there and moving on from there.
Edit
https://www.tundras.com/threads/immobilizer-issue-solution.134395/

 

Today, was the longest day ever.... I ended up stranded at the store for over an hour.... Single click no start, can confidently state that it's not the starter, but I'll overhaul thebold one just in case... I'm 3 parts in with 0 success so far...
This time it gave me a skip start and it may be part battery issue and past something else.
I'm trying to solve this issue.... and I think I may have inadvertantly solved it... will work on this theory tomorrow.

 

The other day I was at the post office. Mailed out my stuff and went to start. Nothing. The dash lights dimmed for a period, a start crank cycle. I went underneath and shook the starter wires. Still nothing. Looked at relay and fuses all good. I was able to remove the heat shield. Felt that the trigger wire completely fell out. I was lucky to blindly get it to go back in. Started right up! Drove home and put a glob of fipg on trigger wire to housing. Hopefully that's it! Just posting in case someone has this issue.

 

I may have a broken wire behind the dash. I haven't had a failed start since I reset the telescoping nearer to the dash.

 

I’m having the shame issue currently with my 07 Tundra. Stranded in the parking lot, with crank codes and cam as well. Single click when trying to start sort he key, gos through its stating cycle and nothing.

 

Pm'd u

 

My '07 once had a problem where it wouldn't start, no click, nothing. I flipped the key and it started right up. I think the key isn't an OEM version. All the other starting issues I've had were fixed when I replaced the starter. I ended up getting a used very low mileage Toyota starter off of ebay for less than the cost of a rebuilt aftermarket one. The drive gear looked like new vs mine with 160k on it. Since it's not a daily driver and I don't think I would trust an aftermarket one it was a good option for me. I'm not all that impressed with how the solenoid wire connects to the starter. In the past Toyota used a ring lug and small nut. Now it just clips on. It doesn't even look like it's well sealed.

 

At some point that stops working all together, then it rejects all keys. I have an aftermarket starter since atleast 2019 and it starts strong to this day. Then you're in a pinch since it rejects all attempts, even jumping the relay, so it may be wiring to the starter or something else all together, and the people who have replaced starters and continue with the same issue proves that the starter is not the problem. I would say most it's the starter a smaller portion is something still unknown.

 

Old 97 F150 I owned once, had problems with the turn signals. I noticed that when I had the steering wheel set up high the signals
worked just fine. When the wheel was set low, the signals wouldn't come on. Sold it to a friend later when I bought my Tundra. He took the steering wheel apart and found a electrical plug for the
signals was almost pulled out of its connection. He worked back through the wheel and pulled in some loose wire and battened everything
up and all worked fine. My problem was with the tilt of the wheel , not
how far it was pulled out from the dash. Just noodling

 

Yeah, it's probably the tilt. I removed the bolts from the column cover, in case of failure I can readily remove the clamshell and get to work. I'm carrying a go bag with electrical tools and gadgets, so of course it isn't going to fail more than once. It will fail once I remove the bag, and it'll strand me far from home of course.

 

Once I "glued" the starter trigger wire I've had no start issues. Knock on wood!