What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

See parts and process listed here, along with a helpful video, finally found a decent one on YT I could link in the thread. But seriously, that reply has three links at the top of it. Watch the video, then go back to the links in that reply for some extra notes, a lot of the stuff I shared w/@Dakillacore when we replaced his on Sunday.

They apparently changed the valve cover after 2002? I remember someone on here being shocked at another member's valve cover shape, it being different. And another person who took valve covers from a JY, got them home, only to realize the tops were different. But given the '00-'02 are also the only trucks with the weak planetary gear, I mean, I think the cutoff makes sense.

In general, it seems like the major year cutoffs for our trucks are [00-02], [03-04] [05-06] or variations thereof, like [00-04] only, or [03-06].

Nailed it!

I'd add a couple things to this.

When popping out the plug tube seals, make sure you don't pry using the internal metal cover. Honestly, the video shows a better way, I just didn't have that specific pry tool on me, forgot to bring it. The way the video in the link I gave above shows, using a large socket to tape them back in, it's legitimately the easiest way.

Chlorine-free brake cleaner (I prefer Brakleen, green can) will quickly and safely dissolve everything that's baked into the underside of the valve cover and the half moon plugs. Before you break out the razor blades, saturate a shop cloth with Brakleen to clean the surface of the head where the gasket will mate, and inside the journals where the half moon plugs sit. Run your finger across it, is it smooth? If yes, you're golden. There tends to be a ridge of FIPG in the valley where the half moon sits.

Look VERY closely inside the head below the half moon plug valley for old hard chunks of FIPG. I found one the size of a small peanut in his, it apparently fell off when we pulled the half moons on the passenger side. It was just large enough to really jam up a passage, and that shit isn't going to get broken down over time, so if you lose a chunk in the head, you're at the mercy of the ports-and-valleys gods.

Like Dakillacore warns about, clean really well in these corners on either side of the cam tower, it's a critical place you'll apply your FIPG, and it's also a bitch to see in this nook, flat razor will help you cut any jammed up stuff out.

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When reinstalling the valve cover, use the cam tower as your "key" for lining it up. It's easier to do this with two people, one to slide the cover over the head from the front of the truck, and another at the fender side of the truck to center it over the head. BE CAREFUL that the plug tube seals line up properly! I pinched one on my passenger side head. You can't really pull up the cover then lay it back down, it's pretty much a one-go thing, or you're pulling it up, re-FIPG'ing, and setting down.

Zip-ties: Spots helpful to zip-tie things out of your way for clearance, with pics below to demonstrate from my truck:

1. You have three lines crossing over the driver head, one is evap (with the little keg on it), detach as shown in the video. The other two fuel delivery lines, zip-tie those to your hard brake lines around the master cylinder so you have easy exit. It also helps to remove the oil dipstick, and remove the ground wires from the head.
2. After you remove the air intake tube, zip-tie the foam-covered A/C refrigerant line to your upper radiator hose so it's not in your way when you reinstall stuff. See pic below.

I feel like there's one other thing to zip-tie but I can't think of it...

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And here's where I'd avoid scoring with a screwdriver, the vertical wall between the two blue lines. that's where the tube seals are primarily sealing against.

The flat between the red and blue line is not super critical; it's not really stopping any oil from getting anywhere.

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Its not a weak planetary, its a test carefully engineered to weed out unworthy drivers.

 

Made this tailgate insert this summer for my 2005 AC.
First off, I know I can buy a plastic or metal one. I know I can cut cup holders or other slots for it. I made this for about $15 from scrap wood and sprayed bed liner from Menards on it.
I figure I could make another one if I want to pretty easily. And also what is the point of having a 20+ year old truck if I don't make the cheapest insert possible for it?
It's 3/8 plywood with a backing piece. Probably didn't need the backing piece though because the full piece is very sturdy.

 

Functional, useful and cost effective. I'm behind it 100%. Nice job.

 

So I recently went down the @shifty` rabbit hole in the Getting to Level on Bilstein 6112's for Access Cabs | Page 3 | Toyota Tundra Forum.

I didnt really realize I might be getting way more lift than expected with my current settings of #6 Driver / #5 Passenger, as shown in the forum I linked where Shifty gives these new estimates for AC trucks.

Shifty: You mentioned that a couple shops recommended going to the same Circlip location for the Driver and Passenger sides, different than Billys recommendation of being TWO notches higher to account for driver side lean. Ive encountered the same thing as those shops did, and moved mine to only ONE location different between both sides. And I still have a slight lean to the PASSENGER side unlike what Bilstein recommends.

Soooo, Im thinking of trying #2 circlip location on both Driver and Passenger side to see where that gets me. I also have the V6 so I might get slightly more lift than a V8? Also I have a winch up front as well with #650 springs so Im thinking I could end up around a 1 inch lift when all is said and done. Thats the goal at least.

I agree with Shifty, this Bilstein Typical Lift Height makes absolutely no sense when talking about the AC tundras.

I dont want a ton of lift and if I do have rake, I may end up getting Total Chaos Lowering shackles to help level my rear end out if #2 locations up front lower me too much. I like the idea of less preload up front and more down travel from my shocks off road.

Hope this all makes sense, any insight would be appreciated and maybe Ill have to be a guinea pig for you guys on this experiment!

 

I gave myself until lunch today to salvage this. Its about 3"narrower side to side and 2" shorter in height. Much better proportions and fits the rear much better.

 

i like that. Diamond plate with a name & address stamped in like dealer bumpers from the 70’s.

although. Dont stop there, i need to be able to hook a step or ladder to it, maybe an offset secondary hitch to hook a swingout tire carrier or bbq pit to. Eff it, make the top a lid, so ropes & straps can be stored in there. Recessed fenderwell lights strung across the back for the most obnoxious reverse/cargo lights.

 

All I can see is two compartments for straps/soft shackes/pullys/chains.

 

A trio of hitches, a center one for trailers, and a pair of frame mounted auxiliary receivers for other stuff, imagine the aux hitches never need to handle more than 250lbs (including hey can all have toyota receiver plugs, and i can have remote triggered firework mortars epoxied in, hope a thief doesnt stick it in their pocket). A pair of short 150w lightbars with red tint for aux brakelights to annoy folks with LED’s that leave their lights on through drivethru’s.

think thats what i’m gonna do for the caps 3rd brake light. I’ve got a 37” 3-row nilight and some translucent red/amber striped film.

 

My recent cap reset was a success. I pulled the sides in 1/2” before clamping, and added 2 extra clamps in the center, and it doesnt leak 1/2 as much through the back window. Those still get a bit of wind-blown moisture, but no more damp spots near the tailgate.

 

Hopefully you did your truck a solid favor while you were in there, like every good 1st gen owner should.

 

For reference only, where did running #6/#5 end up landing you? Or did you bail after reading that? (b/c it would've lifted you, like, a lot )

Again, only for reference, what are we talking about here lean-wise, quarter inch, half inch favored toward the passenger side?

Yeah, that would be my guess, Running #3/#2 or #2/#2 should put you in the ballpark of 1" front lift.

Don't worry, we won't .

 

Good info. I'm going to be replacing my tailgate handle as soon as it comes in so I'll do this at the same time. Just put in the order for that WD-40 white lithium grease as well.

 

I noticed you had a bit of an issue with yours, but didn't want to say anything

One or two folks on here have mentioned having good luck with the Dorman replacement.

 

I have sprayed WD-40 on the moving parts in there as I was having the typical trouble with the latch but have not replaced the plastic clips. Did not know about them so thank you for the info! These things are almost a full time job to take care of.

 

Im on #6/#5 now. Of course I didnt measure before I changed to the 6112s. I put archive garage MD leafs in the back with my camper shell and they say you get around 1.5 inch lift with 600lbs. Im guessing i have around 500 pounds in the rear so probably have almost 2 inch lift in the rear, which might be too much. But im pretty level which means I probably have close to 2 inch lift in the front.

Lean wise, I also dont know the exact numbers since I already changed from my original #5 Driver/ #3 Passenger to #6 Driver / #5 Passenger awhile back to correct for that lean, but it still looks like I have a slight lean and could go with the same lift number for both Driver and Passenger side.

Yea I will most likely try #2 clip location for both sides and see how that ends up. If I have too much rake im thinking of the Total Chaos lowering shackles, or maybe moving up to #3 location for my 6112s

 

You had recommended a metal handle with a back up camera, so I grabbed that one. Since I plan on upgrading the head unit I might as well really upgrade the handle.

 

Yeah, the Master Tailgater's metal handle looks great. I'd love to fab up a quick disconnect. I want to find a newer model Tundra with tailgate camera, and see how those are setup, maybe steal a bit of the wiring for it.

 

How much newer? I can probably find a broken one around the shop sometime.

 

Not sure. I need to start hitting up friends with Tacos and newer Tundras to see what they've got in theirs, how the wiring connects to the tailgate for the camera, how it routes up to the handle. Anything on a newer vehicle can likely be ported to ours, with a little ingenuity. All I really want is the 3" before and after where the bulkhead meets the tailgate.

 

Hey anybody that has rebooted a CV on their tundra. @notlikejohnny ???
Is the tundra CV different from Tacoma and 4runner CVs? I started disassembling mine and noticed that there isn’t any tulip head and I can only remove the entire head on both sides.
Is this the correct process?
https://youtu.be/sooOhL8nJfk?si=GOFfQeBCaosMdR1I

this is the process for the Tacoma/4runner?

https://youtu.be/vcCT4UgFUTw?si=aN51xz-VAbz7nVzr

 

Something that made a huge difference for my handle was flattening out the access panel with a mallet. Mine was caved in from previous owner loading motorcycles in the bed. It was causing the handle to be flappy and only engage at the point that I felt I was about to break it. Flattening the panel isn't discussed much, but it was exactly what fixed my ossue. Plus it was easy and free

I don't remember where I saw it, but someone grafted the skin around the newer handle to their best gen tail gate. Looked really clean.

 

Hope this helps...

https://www.tundras.com/posts/3451375

 

I see you routinely clean your door jambs

Me detailing my truck: "I wonder if the is @FirstGenVol approved..."

 

I'll see what I can find for you.

 

Thanks. It appears the tundra CVs are different from Tacoma/4runner and the job is simpler. I don’t hate that.

 

lol this pic looks funky but i got some new wheels

 

Reminds me of the old "wagon wheels" I think that's what they were called. White ones.

 

thank you man, ya that was my inspiration