What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Have not heard back from Australia directly, but did speak with Johnny at "Cruisers and Company" which is the only stateside dealer. He's working directly with the owner to get some answers for exactly what is available for the WHP I'm asking out of it. He mentioned perhaps the lockup controller could be helpful but he's going to wait to get the answers direct from Australia.

Timing: ~4-5 weeks.

Cost: TBD

Shipping: Product ships direct to us from Australia ($100-150 shipping charge). We let the core drain for a few days and then ship it stateside to Johnny and he deals with the international part of the return. A quick search showed USPS, medium standard box, would be ~$100 to ship internationally, so anything less to Johnny is a savings.

Notes: Australia just opened a little while ago, so they're likely just getting into emails and such now. I'll be getting an update later tonight or tomorrow to finalize numbers and to get a full plan in place, developed by the owner, for the HP range I'm looking at. I need to see the numbers in writing first, but they are promising if they hold true.

More to follow tonight or tomorrow.

 

As mentioned they don’t do anything to the trans internals. Pan, and valve body is about it.

 

Another little project completed...

 

I'm still only here for the Extreme VB upgrade, but I'll hear their recommendations, especially if they are less about additional upgrades and more about changing how we are used to utilizing what we have. What I really need, though, is the pricing, in writing. The stateside option is promising if the audio track holds true.

 

Is there supposed to be a light in the glove compartment on the 2018 SR5s? I am blind, that is why I am asking, before anyone asks.

 

No.

 

No sir.

 

Thanks gentlemen. I thought it was burned out, then I thought I couldn't find the burned out bulb... which weren't never there.

 

Aussies just got back to me today. I’m guessing it will be approx $150 shipping here and then $150 back for the core.

They also had a 10% off sale ending today.

 

I had this crafted since yesterday. Jay is the same sales rep I've been working with. 4-5 weeks plus 1-2 for shipping as of last evening.

I'm waiting for Johnny at Cruisers and Co to give me a link to the Extreme. I asked for it last night because I'm also ready to purchase.

Nomad & Extreme were the same pricing which is why I'm sharing.
https://cruisersandcompany.com/coll...oducts/tundra-series-6-speed-nomad-valve-body

Australian site is $100'ish less than what is listed on their own site (just add it to your cart to see).
https://automatictransmission.com.a...uty-valve-body-to-suit-toyota-tundra-6-speed/

 

Sweet!

 

https://cruisersandcompany.com/products/tundra-3ur-fe-6-speed-extreme-heavy-duty-valve-body

Johnny added the Extreme VB to his site (Nomad was already there). I'm not sad about the savings and already have my order in.

 

Does the 7 pin connector have an output for reverse lights? I got one of these for the tailgate since the camper kinda obscures my brake lights/turn signals.

$21 Nanpoku Tailgate Light Bar 60" Triple Row Tail Light bar for Pickup Trailer SUV RV Van Full Function Red Brake White Reverse Amber Turn Signal Double Flash Light No Drill Install (60")

https://www.amazon.com/Nanpoku-Tail..._csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm
It plugs into the 4 pin connector for turns and tails and says to tap the reverse lights on the truck for reverse. Id much rather tap at the 7 pin connector and not route a bunch of wire if i can.

 

Should be the center pin on the connector: https://www.ajtnt.com/Info/7-Way-Diagram

 

I grabbed one of these so I could tap into the wire on this harness and not mess with the truck wiring. This also let me tuck everything behind the bumper to be cleaner and not affect the bumper hitch connectors for use when towing.

$31 CURT 55384 Replacement Vehicle-Side Custom USCAR 4-Pin Trailer Wiring Harness, Black, 6 x 3 x 9"es

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009FJ38Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
The center is the reverse

 

Sweet!!thanks guys, sorry for the dumb question, for some reason I thought the tundra was different than the normal plug.

 

Easier to ask before you splice the wrong wire.

 

I've got them. Been running them for 20k miles so far. They are good in my opinion, but I dont have experience w/ anything other than factory. I have felt great control/contact w/ the road, and they aren't sloppy or floaty feeling either.

 

Thanks for the reply. That is what is was hoping to hear. Appreciate your input.

 

You got to post a review.

 

Finally wired in my pop&lock. of course there are mutiple sets of directions out there and the one I had made it work in reverse. quick swap and up and running.

Also started the install on my auxpower, but then the baby work up.. so off we go for a walk.

 

Welp third time is the charm I guess. Truck running great yesterday. Today check engine light today. Cylinder 2 misfire. Traction control light blinking off.
Think a damn squirrel got me again….

 

Of course!

We tow a camper 4500# several times a year. I also have a rack and RTT. I dont do any technical 4x4, mainly fire roads, and jeep trails. I think they handle best at 30-40mph on fireroads. They dont feel soft enough for slow crawling on craggy stuff. On highway, they are very comfortable. I'm running stock rear leaf springs, Sumosprings bump stop (just intalled, too early for a review), and a Toytech shackle.

 

I’ve wanted to do the Toyota backlighting for a while…finally found the time. Happy with the results. Here’s the kit:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/150634...MIueK4we6eiwMVDUdHAR1QIinYEAQYASABEgK8HfD_BwE

 

That's pretty cool. Any pics of what the install looks like?

 

No, but it’s pretty straightforward. Remove the OEM letters; some might use a heat gun to soften the adhesive, but I just used a trim tool and they popped right off relatively easy, and used my finger to roll up the old adhesive. Make sure when removing the OEM letters not to use too much force so you don’t break off the two alignment “prongs” on the back of the OEM letters. Stick the OEM letters on top of the LED letters; the OEM prongs pressure-fit into matching holes in the LED letters, but I used some silicon sealant just to be safe. Dry fit the LED letters to see where to drill the 1/2” holes where the wiring goes through the grille and drill away. Run the wires through the holes you just drilled, remove the adhesive film on the back of the LED letters, and stick them on the grille (hold them in place for about a minute for the adhesive to set). Plug the wires into the main wiring harness, connect the provided fuse tap/bridge into a switched or unswitched fuse in the fusebox you prefer, and use the provided ground wire terminal to ground to the truck body or a bolt (I actually got rid of the ground wire terminal and fuse tap and spliced it into my power wires running my “Raptor” clearance lights). Whole install took me about an hour and a half.

 

I've been eyeing that kit for quite a while myself. I meant to ask him what leds are used as I wondered what the lifespan is.

 

Did the drivers side door check replacement. Was surprisingly easy and at only $13. I no longer have that annoying clicking noise when opening my door.

 

Just finished the install of my Pop n Lock yesterday evening and it was all plug n play with no splicing.Love it