Brake pad info

It appears at 32K I need to replace the brake pads for my 21 Tundra SR5 2WD Crew Cab. I tow things on occasion like small boats, campers and utility trailers but otherwise nothing crazy. What is everyone liking for brake pads lately?

 

OEM is the way to go. Here's all the part numbers
Front Rotors 43512-0C020
Front Pads 04465-02440
Front Shim Kit 04945-0C040
Front Pad Fit kit 04947-0C030
Front Pad Pin 90240-06024
Front Pad Pin Clip 90016-AS903
Rear Rotors 42431-0C011
Rear Pads 04466-02340
Rear Shim Kit 04946-02110
Rear Fit Kit 04948-02140

 

While we on the subject, what tool is needed for retracting the rear caliper pistons, is it a standard cross pattern?

 

I just use a big c-clamp and and old brake pad the rear is easy but the front can be a little challenging but I got it done.

 

Get you one of these https://www.amazon.com/Caliper-Comp...=&hvlocphy=9030104&hvtargid=pla-2281435180978
And some yellow stuff
https://www.ebcbrakes.com/

 

Do you have to remove your rims to see your current tread depth?

 

Thanks for this. I'm approaching 80k miles and am noticing a little bit of warped rotors. So thinking i will replace all the brakes at 100k.

Question are all these parts the same for the 2018/2021 2wd or 4x4 ect. Ect. Like all the trucks made in 2021 use all the same parts?

 

2018 and 2021 share the same parts.

https://www.toyotapartsandservice.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/10/04_BrakePads2024_hi.pdf

 

To see clearly - yes.

 

2014-2021 are the same trucks with some minor differences through the years but all maintenance parts are the same.

 

There was a change in front & rear brake pad part numbers for the 2018 model year. The rear shim kit and rear fit kit were updated as well.

 

Interesting, didn't know that, wondering what the difference is and if they are interchangeable

 

Pad dimensions are the same, so I would assume they are interchangeable. My guess has been the 2018+ version has less copper and other metallic content to satisfy government requirements.

 

I do have a similar tool. Thanks all for answering, I was checking to see if the rear calipers need to be threaded back in like a Honda or pushed back in.

 

Only if you are also checking the bumper hydraulic fluid. If not the shop will have to break down the tires so tread depth it can be measured without load on the tire. If the tire is loaded up the bottom will be flatter than the top of the tire thereby distorting your readings.

 

I'm talking about removing the rims to check brake pad life. Not sure why I said tread depth haha.

 

I have that tool and it’s a POS. Broke on my third use.

This style tool from Lisle is far superior and can spread the caliper without take it off the rotor.

$57 Lisle 29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GLQCK..._Y2WV4T5EF186TTCANYCS&language=en-US&newOGT=1

 

Both front and rear get shoved back in, no threading. Some folks just use an old pad and a screwdriver to get it done.

 

I just replaced my front pads at 49,000 miles. I went with the Hawk Super Duty pads. They have good bite, low brake dust, and no noise whatsoever. I tow often and these pads work great. The entire job was about 40 minutes. Pop the master cylinder and use the old pads to push the pistons in. Easy job even for someone with minimal mechanical experience like myself.

 

I have owned that tool for over 20 years, its good stuff.

 

Lisle makes good stuff. I have their hand vacuum pump also that I use to bleed brakes, test for vacuum leaks and what not. It has a ton of uses.

 

thanks for this list Joe. Looks like theres a copy and paste error.
The Front Shim Kit is actually 04945-0C040
(looks like you pasted the rears for the rear and front) no biggie, figured anyone else finding this page could find this helpful.

thx!

 

Appreciate the list. I used a similar list last year to purchase all the parts I'll need for my first brake job. Can you add the quantity needed for each part#? Like I know the front shim kit is quantity 1 that covers both front left and right, the pins would be quantity 4, etc.
I'm guessing the rear shim kit would also be quantity 1. What quantity would I need for the "rear fit kit"? 1 or 2?

This past weekend I changed out just the front brake pads and reused the pins but installed new shims(all OEM). Rear pads had a good 80% life on them still so I left those on. I got new front and rear pads on order right now with new shims(25% sale). Glad I saw your post though as I didn't think to order the rear shims and clips so I'll have to get those ordered now.

 

Thanks! I'll fix the post in case someone else uses it

 

Thanks for this thread. I have to get hot in changing mines as well
ordered the rotors but they have not arrived yet and called and called and ended up cancelling the order with jegs.

 

I use a telescoping inspection mirror for checking pads without removing wheels..Honestly never used the OEM pad shims when replacing, but always went with non OEM pads...I use a large pair of channel lock pliers and an old pad to push the pistons in or a large mechanics pry bar...

 

Crack the bleeder screw when compressing the brake caliper pistons. The fluid in the calipers gets pretty nasty with water intrusion and sometimes even dirt and brake dust that gets past the seals. Opening the bleeder will send that nasty fluid out instead of forcing it back into your brake lines / ABS / Master cylinder. I usually do a brake bleed / fluid exchange when brakes are due, but that’s usually 60-80k miles and many years for me.

 

Rear rotors will not come off
I thought after the caliper it should have slid off

 

Sometimes they are just stuck, I forget the size but I'm sure you can find it online, it's the same size as Subaru but there are holes two holes in the rotors opposite of each other, you can screw a bolt into each and turn each one alternating and it will pop right off. Also be sure you don't have the parking brake on. A rubber mallet can also work sometimes.

 

Did you remove the retention screw? I can't remember if our trucks have 1 or 2 but I never put them back in after removal anyway. The holes with the arrows are what @Joe333x was talking about threading into to pry the rotor off