One thing after another

Would like to see pics. Usually one is enough for most men, but if you have the room.....
https://www.reddit.com/r/hondaridgeline/comments/qcw9cz/front_end_wench_mounting_options/?rdt=60229

I'll show myself out.

 

from page 1....

Definitely wouldn't be surprised if at some point throughout this cluster fudge that the newly installed alternator or the installation of same was part of the issue.

The ECU needs good 12vdc to feed the 5vdc regulator circuits inside the ECU, in turn supplying stable 5vdc to the TPS and many other circuits. The P0120(“Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor 'A' Circuit.”) you've mentioned way back on 1st page is saying it is detecting abnormal voltage readings from TPS or APPS. Either one not receiving steady voltage would cause the ECU to go bonkers.

 

Well I figured it out! It was the ECU. I will be sending my ECU in to SIA Electronics in Tilden Illinois. I used my buddies ECU and the truck purred like a kitten again. Besides the 6.3vdc coming from the bad alternator I’m all good! Luckily my truck didn’t brick his truck. He drove it home and everything is fine. Now I just need to get some advice on a HO alternator, JS or mechmen, or another.

I WOULD LIKE TO SAY HOW VERY MUCH APPRECIATED ALL YOUR HELP HAS BEEN. THE ENCOURAGEMENT, OUT OF THE BOX THINKING HAS BEEN GREAT. ITS NOT EASY BEING DEAF AND DYSLEXIC BUT YOU ALL HAVE MADE ME FEEL UNJUDGED, AND BETTER YET MADE ME FORGET ABOUT MY DISABILITIES. IT GOES A LONG WAY WHEN ITS A STRANGER AND NOT FAMILY! THANK YOU ALL AGAIN!

 

Good job sticking with it!
I felt your pain through all this. I spent 7-8 months on mine (did not have this forum's help) before I last ditch effort bought a junkyard ECM. And like you, my problem disappeared. Post some pictures so we all can see what your rig looks like!
Congrats

 

Good to hear OP. The higher output alternators used in the later FGTs and in the Sequoias have a different connector than our 2000 Tundras. Not to worry as you can purchase the connector and repin your wires into it. Do not cut any wires. Use a safety pin or depinning tool. There are several threads about this.

 

Okay why does my truck start goes into reverse and functions fine ( like I can drive around the block in reverse and have good throttle response). Goes into neutral and idles fine, soon as I go into drive in dies? If I start in neutral tap the accelerator a few times and then put it in drive it will idle, but soon as I take my foot off the brake and push the pedal it dies. I check my code reader and I get no codes. It is 12 degrees here but I’ve driven in a lot colder temps and the truck ran and operated fine!!
WHAT THE HELL!!!!!

 

Any visible damage to the ECU?

 

Once wx permits, mind posting a pic of as many of those items below that your scan tool has with Eng at operating temp in park with minimal load....no heater, radio/amp etc.

Also, if you've had time and weather permitting, do you feel you got the TPS properly adjusted and do you still have stable voltage ?

 

Just dust on the ECU but nothing burnt or broken

I will get at it tomorrow and I will get those pictures for you to see.

 

Just give it a once over for cracked solder joints or damaged connector pins.

 

OP already determined it was the ECM by using a working unit from a friends truck.
My question is what ECM are you using now?? Did you get a new one already?

 

No it was my friends. I sent mine to a place where the fix ecm’s.

 

Now my truck idles fine, goes into reverse and actually can drive in it, goes into neutral. Soon as you put the truck it dies! I mean it doesn’t chug, lurch, or rattle it just dies. Sometimes if you are slow enough it will go into drive and idle but soon as you take your foot off the brake it dies? I’m confused now






IF YOU ARE IN PARK HIT THE GAS MY CODE READER WILL READ THIS

 

In the pics, it's still in open loop. ("OL")

The symptoms you describe is something we often see when the truck is in relearn, i.e. when battery cable was off 10-15 mins, especially after doing things like cleaning the throttle body.

I'd leave sitting in idle for a period, until it hits closed loop. ("CL")

But if your ECU part number doesn't match exactly with your friends, I wouldn't drive around with it.

 

Would my alternator have a play in the engine dying? Like I turn off all the accessories like heater, radio, amps, lights etc. just don’t know if by putting the truck in drive it demands more output than the alternator can give so it just quits?
And to let it idle for a period of time are we like talking 30 to 40 minutes or more or less?

 

It shouldn't read "OL-Drive" or open loop while driving if your in park. Unless you had already put it in gear and back into park when you took that pic.

 

15 minutes the truck should be up to operating temp 185-195 period. Both fuel systems 1 and 2 are staying in OL/open loop, never progressing to closed loop.
I would figure out why your not going into closed loop (not reaching operating temp) before trying to diag anything else. Thermostat stuck open/ or missing?
Temp sensor bad(green one that sends data to ECM), (grey one is sender to your cluster gage).
If your ECM isn't listening to all the sensors, and waiting to go into closed loop/(engine to reach operating temp), adjusting/diagnosing anything is going to be tough....

 

Will the bad temp sensor cause the truck to operate fine in reverse, neutral? But die when put in drive or idle in drive but die when you release the brake?

 

Highly doubt it, but I would address problems you can identify first. Like ones you have codes for, or can clearly see from your scanner. And even the ones you have codes for I would wait until you ECM can go into closed loop.
But that's just me, anyone chime in and correct me

 

That’s the problem I’m not throwing any codes

 

This problem didn’t exist before all of your recent work as you reported it ran nice and smooth. Something you did recently is the problem most likely. None of us were there to see and aren’t there to inspect. You’ll really have to go back over all of your work and find the smoking gun. I’m also still not sure how your original intake manifold was cracked, but wasn’t causing any issues, or even how you crack the intake manifold to start with.

 

I’ve checked everything! Connectors, wires, hoses, everything. I am going to let this truck idle for a hour to see if that will help but the only thing that has changed is when I plugged the power steering valve back up right.

 

Get it to fully warm up 185-195, and go into CL/ClosedLoop
Then figure out what's killing it
Does it stop fuel?
Does it stop spark?
Does it stop air?
Just spitballin

 

Got to operating temp. I can cycle through reverse and neutral just fine, but after it goes into drive it’s dead.
NOW AFTER CYCLING THROUGH REVERSE, NEUTRAL, AND DRIVE A COUPLE TIMES IT WILL NOT START IN PARK OR NEUTRAL? It almost acts like a dead battery but it has 12.72? No codes thrown.

 

Sounds strangely like you have a power/cabling issue. You sure the ground and power terminals and their wires are OK and not shorting anywhere?

 

I am sure of it, I mean I have checked over and over again. I have also noticed that when you open the truck door the door chime and radio will some how stop and restart but on the radio it doesn’t loose memory?
I have tried to track down bad ignition wires or bad fuses but nothing is visible or I’m not able to wiggle wires or isolate the problem or recreate the problem. It doesn’t do it all the time but usually first few time you open the door. I bought an alternator to replace my old one, it’s a little stronger than my old 100amp one. Battery connections are tight and all the grounds are good. The only thing I thought it could be was when I replaced the 120amp fuse and had to take the fuse block out a little to remove the two bolts on either side so I could remove the fuse block?

 

I mean, with the variety of symptoms you're seeing, the circuits impacted, and this new door chime symptom, I'm sitting here wondering if you don't have some kind of problem with the engine bay fusebox, or even the in-dash fusebox (pics & pics & pics of others who had water leaking into it).

But the door chime may just be that the door plunger is failing, too.

 

There is no corrosion in the cabin fuse box or in the engine bay fuse box? What fuses/relays in the engine fuse panel that might control my issues?

 

We've seen some wild ones over the years.

This one comes to mind, related to the engine bay fusebox: https://www.tundras.com/threads/charging-alternator-problems.97131/#post-2469357

So does this one: https://www.tundras.com/threads/crank-no-start-diagnosing-and-solving.146559/

We've seen a lot of wild stuff on here, things you'd never expect.

 

Fuses are fine. No melted wires or corrosion on fuses. No loose wires