What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Tempting. I'll certainly do what I can to help because I have a desire to get my hands dirty and learn stuff with adult supervision lol.

I'd be down to come help you sometime though for real. Especially if I can have access you a lift for a day or so.

I been chomping at the bit to help Casey install his leaf springs and raise his front and play with some 33's. Also been wanting to help Matt install his TRD SC.

 

Couldn’t be more than 100 pounds. Not easy to flop around on my wooden (lol) welding table but it’s not the 150 I was expecting.

 

Sold! Matt can pay you in my 4WD parts for having to supervise you

 

Yes sir, I got the full bars one. That was what I was saying, I don’t have a chop saw or contour machine or any of the cool stuff. Just a cutoff tool with some bs HF wheels and lab goggles like a fucking lunatic.

 

You're doing the 5100's up front with the SOS kit, right?
I wish I had the foresight to go with 5100'a in front instead of 4600's on mine. But at least the rear has 5100's.

 

I don't need payment, I need life experiences.

 

Yep. And lowering shackles out back.

If anyone wants a deal on lightly used rear 5100's I have an extra pair from @des2mtn

 

How those 4.30's and rebuilt LSD treating you?
I'm pretty happy with the 4.10's. seems like I didn't lose or gain any MPGs. Speedo is a little fast. Basically the opposite of my other tundra haha

 

Rebuilt LSD went to @metalpete.

4.30's haven't been installed.

 

You got a build thread? I don't remember what your truck looks like and what other mods you have.

I bet the 4.30's paired with the VVTI and a tune would be nice.

 

You know, once @JasonC. gets his welder down pat, we could always go SAS. Ford Dana 60s and front leafs to eliminate the ADD and LBJs

 

Ive got some 2k mile 5100s that will be available soon.

 

You and Casey

 

You could try McMaster Carr. I’ve had a lot of luck with them when I need an oddball part for various metalworking and woodworking projects. Could be hard to find true stainless, but zinc coated may be good enough for you. The trick will be how far do the threads go on the screw - are they where you need them to be. Browse this:

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/screws/wood-screws~/screw-size~no-14/fastener-head-type~flat/

 

Yeah, I'm replacing them too and did, especially if I don't know the history of the vehicle. He will have to do whatever floats his boat.

 

Curious. Why new alternators don't have a core charge but the rebuilt units have a core charge? I saw this on Toyota's online parts store.

 

Because new alternators are made with all new stuff, and they don't want your old one back. Rebuilt alternators are made with someone else's old radiator, and they do want yours back so they can rebuild it to sell to someone else. The core charge provides an incentive for you to return the old one, however not the obligation to do so. The manufacturer and location for the new part is not the same as for the rebuilt part, even though they may share the same name

 

If you want the speedo dead on for dirt cheap, you can pry the speedo needle off its post and reposition it. Just set up a couple GPSs (to get an average) on the dashboard, find a low traffic time on a straight open highway, set the cruise control at 60mph, don’t crash, and push the speedo needle back on so that it’s pointing at the big 60.

 

It’s looking good! If you’re having drive roll problems, it can only be so many things…
-the spool of wire is old and has some rust on it (it doesn’t take much).
-the liner for the gun has corrosion in it.
-the drive rollers need to have more tension on it. (can you adjust it so that it has a heavier tension)?
-straighten out the gun cable as much as you can. if it has many loops in it, it creates a lot more friction for the welding wire.
-wrong size groove is being used on the drive roller (if you drive roller has grooves that is).
-a combination of two or more of what i previously mentioned above.

 

...and using shitty Harbor Freight wire

 

I am going to try increasing tension today and we’ll see! Thank you. And @w666 yeah I’m running HF wire through an HF machine….when it works well it’s absolutely a joy to work with. The nozzle gunks up and the contact tips also get all nasty so I have to stop and clean those out after about 8 inches of welding. I attribute that to being so close to the weld, but any farther away and my welds look like azz. You can also see all the spatter around my welds in some pics and it’s crazy.

 

I'm too lazy for a build thread anymore. Lol.

My posts in here constitute it (mostly).

 

I feel that.

 

Happy new year to all!! Cranked up my Icon's to just below the maximum preload height and added a 1/4" plate to driver side from 1stGenOffroad and got another 1" out of the front end which basically leveled it out in all 4 corners. I've had my 2006 DC for over 19 years and it currently has 167,780 miles.....I rolled it off the lot at Toyota Santa Cruz in 2005 with 1 mile on the ODO.

 

A little pre trip prep; operation check and altitude adjustment for some cold weather camping tomorrow

 

That’s pretty cool, that truck is really getting hard to find now days in great condition with lower miles. You’ve got a gem.

 

Thank You!!! I’ve been looking at 3rd gens since my son is turning 15 and we’ve been practicing in the tundra. The plan is/was to give him the tundra when he gets his license and I will get a new truck. But, this truck is still feeling brand new and it’s hard to let it go…..

 

Was getting a lot of rattling out of my front door speakers even while running a sub and having the hi pass filter turned on. Turns out the JBL's I put in a few years ago were much closer to the door panel than I thought.

I had these speakers in my shitbox from when it was my daily and swapped them to the truck when I got it so I was just running what I had around so not much lost here.

Not wanting to spend much, ($100 or less) just something decent that doesn't stick out so far and preferably doesn't need a spacer ring to make the holes line up. I'm gonna do some more looking around on here to see what others are using but after looking at @KNABORES post below it got me thinking about the kit he used since it is priced really well and includes tweeters.

Is everyone seeing a lot of improvement on replacing the stock tweeters? In my head I feel it wouldn't make a lot of difference but maybe I'm wrong.

I think @shifty` will probably recommend a different set of JBL's and that may be fine as long as they aren't quite as chunky as whatever these are (I'll have to pull them out to get a model number). Open to suggestions as to what fits well in the front of an AC.

Is there a more detailed post of yours showing more of the mounting of these tweeters or is it really self explanatory and I'm overthinking it?

 

Had to cut through the plastic welds to remove the old tweeter grill. Then just surface mounted the new RF one.

 

I need to see the countersink, one of the holes removed. If angled countersink, I'd probably go with a 304 stainless Torx head countersunk screw, I think 20mm would be sufficient.

Ditto...

I typically recomment the JBL Club series components, which comes with a crossover, center-post-mountable tweeter with 3 diff't style mounts, a woofer, and wiring. I think everything you need to know about install that style of kit in RC/AC is in the following links:

It was super easy to re-use the metal bracket from the OEM tweeter as you'll see over here in this reply. Again, JBL threads the center of most of their tweets to capitalize on this. They're not the only brand to do that though, and they don't do it with EVERY tweeter. I didn't need to cut my OEM plastic cover off, the tweeter fit behind it nicely. I'd have preferred a surface-mount option, one which allowed me to pivot the tweeter in a bucket mount (for better imaging), but not this go-round. Maybe later.

Your door is wired with the OEM forked harness, in this spot. The harness, up close from my truck, is here. Crutchfield will give an adapter with speaker purchase, you'll unplug that forked harness, then plug their adapter where it was. The adapter gives you a single pair of wires (+/-) to run to the component crossover. From that crossover, you'll use the wire JBL (or whoever) gives you, to the tweeter and the door speaker separately using whatever method you prefer. If you need to secure floppy wiring, metal flashing tape works great (clean the surface before applying) ads do zip-ties. I repurposed the OEM baffle (plastic box) for the mid, wiggled the OEM plug back/forth to snap it, and ran my wire thru that hole, taping it on the outside of the baffle and once again inside to cut down on any risk of rattling wire.

I mounted the crossover in this spot, red box, using commercial-grade velcro and it's held up for 4-5 years, no problem. I don't like drilling sheet metal, it's wildly unnecessary and irreversible. I don't necessarily love the new style of crossover JBL is using with the Club kits. It's more modular like a laptop power brick, and would benefit from being zip-tied down, but velcro would still work just fine.

Need any other input? Holler! Next time I have my front door panels off, I'll snap a shot of my stuff. I try to do everything in my power NOT to take my door cards off, so I dunno when that'll be.