Help with front brakes sticking on a 04 Tundra

Going to going and trying to help someone with a problem this weekend. They claim the front brakes are sticking shortly after starting to drive it. After it sets for a bit, they freed up. Mentioned that there is a diaphragm that's cracked but its not available to be purchased so not sure about that. They have done tossed some parts at it that I will list below. I am not very familiar with these trucks and hoping to get some helpful advice. I appreciate it. Wasn't really sure where to post this, so hope it will get moved to the correct place if wrong.

Its a 04 Tundra, 4x4 V8. Has drums on the rear, not sure if there was other options for the 04

Recently Replaced:

Booster
Master Cylinder
Proportioning Valve
Rear Brake Hose
RR Wheel Cylinder

 

Might want to replace the flex lines to the front calipers.

 

Stuck caliper?

and our trucks only came with drummy boys

 

It's very easy to check if a caliper is sticking. Have you tested for that yet?

Also, why'd you replace all that other stuff?

What cab type is your truck? If it's double cab, does the truck have VSC (i.e. the "Auto LSD" button on the dash, same panel as the clock)?

If you never flush your brake fluid, or you allow air (and thus water) into your brake fluid, which is hygroscopic (brake fluid sponges up water), you will end up with trash in your brake lines, and that combined with heat will gum up the pistons in the calipers, causing them to stick. Your only options in that case are to rebuild your stock calipers with a $40 kit, or buy new calipers. The PowerStop S2712 calipers are a great choice for a USA-rebuilt OEM/13WL caliper, and Summit usually has them on sale around $250 shipped with no core charge. Since you have a 2004 and not an earlier year it should be a direct bolt-up.

 

Put the front end on jack stands and try spinning the tires by hand. Do the brake pads rub quite a bit with the rotors? Then depress the brake pedal a few times and attempt to spin the tires once again by hand. Does it now feel like the pads are rubbing?

 

Alright boss lets go, hit us with it...

 

It's not uncommon for the 13WL calipers to freeze, in fact I argue that they're prone to it. Check that first...

 

Been there. Twice so far.

 

The 14WA that is on the newer 4R seems to be pretty solid, i have owned, and currently still own a 5th gen 4R and have compiled approx 400,000 miles across the 3 and never had a brake caliper failure, or sticking.
I didnt have any sticking or problems out of my OEM 13WL up to the point i swapped them for the 14WA. I would recommend buying the two new hard lines that go to the caliper though, swapping out calipers and hoping the old lines come off is a gamble. Both my lines broke and wrung off trying to break them free from the caliper. I already questioned how well i would be able to bend the old lines so i already had the new lines ordered and ready to put on, luckily i had them because both lines broke at the bend right behind the calipers flare nut.

 

Am planning to do that.

 

This isn't my truck and is a few hours away from me. It is also a couple hours from any part store so this is why I came here for advice before I make the trip. They started replacing parts because of the brakes sticking. After everything mentioned, they still have a sticking brake withing a few min of driving. I figured it may just could be old rubber flex hoses on the front.

 

I would definitely start there but don't be surprised if it also needs calipers.

Be sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly as well. https://www.tundras.com/threads/rear-brake-adjustment-theory-and-practice.99575/

 

Lol so they replace everything except the caliper?

 

The one thing that would be the #1 suspect on my lists

I would've never touched the rear brakes, knowing how hard they can be to get working correctly with aftermarket parts, adjusters especially. And all the problems people have replacing the booster/MC with aftermarket and trying to get things dialed in, knowing the pushrod usually requires adjustment, and even then things don't work. I think OP has his hands full.

@Monkey34 these trucks usually don't have problems with flex lines collapsing. The biggest problems with the brakes, depending on year and configuration:

• Pistons sticking in the calipers, likely more common in trucks that never get bled, i.e. lots of garbage settles in the bottom
• Improper bleeding, i.e. people fuck up and don't bleed the LSPV (when present) where air likes to get stuck
• Improper adjustment of the rear brakes, or problems with parking brake/auto-adjust feature which has specific instructions on how to dial-in (see the FSM)
• We occasionally see weird stuff with hard lines (in rust belt) and line fittings where they meet the caliper/cylinder at the wheel, but not super common.

Whoever did the original replacements is a moron, and whoever owns the truck needs to find a new mechanic, but not before chasing down the person who swindled them ordering other parts. Highest likelihood is it's the calipers sticking, but basic diagnostics will tell you.

Those PowerStop calipers I linked are a great bolt-on option that is rebuilt here in America from 13WL shells, long-life. No-brainer upgrade. If they don't come with pads, Advics supplied the factory pads/etc. up front and this kit is what you need for those 13WL calipers I linked above, which came on the newer ('03+?) trucks.

 

Improperly adjusted booster push rod or master cylinder clevis rod can also cause this.

Easy test, unbolt the master from the booster and see if the brakes release. You can also crack the front caliper bleeders, if under pressure that is released, then it can be adjustment or a bad master.