Chain Tensioner and Cam Tower Reseal... maybe

I inquired with a couple of dealers about having the timing chain tensioner replaced on my 5.7 tundra. Figured it was 90% of the way to the cam tower reseal, so I asked what it would take to do that as well.. One dealer hasn't responded after two or three phone calls, conversations and messages. The other dealer quoted me $11,000.00 to the job.

Yes, that's right. ELEVEN THOUSAND DOLLARS. Pulled the doom and gloom card 'If its rattling, your phasers are probably toast, too. Need to replace EVERYTHING' I laughed and told them a built short block with forged internals is HALF that much. and a complete NEW motor from Toyota is only a couple grand more (well, last time I check anyways).

So I made a bad decision and decided to order the tensioners and seals and such from a different dealer (three different dealers, actually) to do the job myself. Yup, I'm a glutton for punishment. But I like this truck and it's set up just how I like it, so I'm gonna make it run.

My chain only rattles a few minutes after a cold startup, when the engine is no longer cold, but isn't quite warm yet. It drives me bonkers. The same dealer to me know to worry about it last year when I asked about it, having heard the beginning stages of it on occasion. I've also seen plenty of other trucks put on 10's of thousands of miles with the same rattle until it rattles constantly. My truck isn' there yet, but things usually slow down for me a little bit after the holidays.

After perusing just about every thread I could find, then watching just about every video on the TubeOfYous, I'm fairly confident I can tackle the job. And, like I said, I'm 90% the way to the cam tower seals so I might as well do that, too. @ViktorG contributed a lot of information to a thread over on TundaTalk, as well creating a video of it. He recommends only replacing the driver side primary chain tensioner and leaving the other tensioners and chains alone. Since I'm pulling the phasers and cam plate to reseal the cam tower, I figure the other tensioners and chains are relatively cheap insurance, else I would most likely just replace the tensioner.

Parts are ordered. I sure hope they show up before Christmas.

I'll post the videos I'll be referencing below. Also, I have a few questions for the more experienced peanut gallery...

- Looking for ThreeBond 1207B, I found a some conflicting info. But the closest Toyota part number I could find is for Toyota Seal Packing 103 FIPG

$21 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

00295-00103 . Best I could find, 103 is 1207B repackaged by Toyota. Am I wrong?

- I will have to clean off the the cam plate to cylinder head surfaces, as well as the block to front cover surfaces to reseal with 1207B. I've always used a few razor blades, brake cleaner, and red 3M scuff pads to clean up the surfaces. Any better ways to do that?

- Does the intake have to come off to do the job properly? This one comes with a caveat as my intake provides positive displacement for the whole motor, so it may or may not be relevant.

- Any other advice? or just don't mess it up...

 

Videos, as a reference...

Dans small engine 5.7 timing chain with part numbers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CEwUC7cxGz8


Timing setup from scratch , Blair Witch filming

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oaDWBwmtVEE


Cam tower leak reseal without front cover removal

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiO9ARX9Lts


Rain City Wrench Cam chain rattle fix

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EDgmsNWw0XQ


I Do Cars 5.7 Teardown on stand

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l_1zeSsoOK0


Sergei 5.7 timing chain

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3cOvWBaLSjQ

 

Parts list, not all of which I ordered or plan on using...

1 EACH - 13540-0S020 TENSIONER

1 EACH - 11213-0S010 CYLINDER GASKET

1 EACH - 11214-0S010 CYLINDER GASKET

8 EACH - 11193-70010 SPARK PLUG GASKETS

1 EACH - 90311-A0005 TYPE T OIL SEAL

2 EACH - 16341-38030 WATER OUTLET GASKET

1 EACH - 90301-A0032 ORING

1 EACH - 15193-0S010 OIL PUMP GASKET

4 EACH - 11159-0P010 CAMSHAFT GASKET

4 EACH - 11159-0S010 CAMSHAFT GASKET

2 EACH - 96721-24025 ORING **

1 EACH - 90301-A0033 ORING

4 EACH - 90430-A0001 GASKET **

THREEBOND 1207B - Toyota Seal Packing 103 FIPG 00295-00103


Chain tensioner slipper 13559-0S021

Chain tensioner slipper 13559-0S010



Chain vibration damper 13561-0S021

Chain vibration damper 13561-0S011


Chain sub assembly 1 13506-0S010

Chain sub assembly 2 13507-0P010


Timing chain sprocket inner 13521 38030

Timing chain sprocket outer 13522 38030


Intake Gasket 17171-0S030?

I think that's it, and correct. But if not, please correct me. The two gaskets with asterisks next to them don't show up as specific to my vehicle when running them through the dealer search function.

Toyota sealer info came from a post on a Toyota Motor Home thread, of all places:

"By the way, I am not bad-mouthing sealants sold by Toyota. Just making the point that there are common generic sealants not only just as good - some are exactly the same. Just not stuck in a Toyota box. Toyota FIPG 103 sealant is made by Three Bond and sold under the Three Bond 1207B part #. Permatex Ultra-Black RTV is pretty much exactly the same thing.

Like many car and tractor companies - Toyota reboxes a lot of stuff. As far as I know - here are some that Toyota has put their # on.

Toyota FIPG 103 - is actually Three Bond 1207B RTV silicone.

Toyota FIPG 102 - is actually Permatex Ultra-Grey RTV silicone

Toyota Seal-Packing FIPG - is actually Loctite # 5699 RTV silicone"

https://toyotamotorhome.org/forums/index.php?/topic/8786-best-sealant-for-toyota/

 

So I JUST finished this job on my 2013 4.6L (essentially the same as 5.7L). It was a bitch but I'm really glad I did it. Sometimes after I finish a job like this, I like to research what the dealerships/shops are charging just to justify my effort and that's how I found this thread.

Just yesterday I took her out for first long test drive and everything is running fantastic. For the record, I'm a self-taught DIY guy so this job might be easier/faster for someone with experience. I was also working in 20 deg F winter conditions for a lot of this, which doesn't help either.

Although there were parts of the job where I definitely questioned my decision to take this on, I think the part that pissed me off the most was the lack of information from Toyota on the part numbers for gaskets/seals, so hopefully I can help out there. Half the gaskets in my Felpro valve cover gasket kit were wrong and Toyota was not much help in identifying what was needed. The local dealership parts guy tried to help, but at the end of the day it was forums like this that saved me. Why doesn't Toyota have a pre-assembled kit with part numbers for all the gaskets needed for valve covers, timing covers, etc?!

I used the YouTube videos referenced above, the best being Dan's Small Engine and the last video of the Russian guy changing the timing chain. But both of those guys skip steps, and I had to find other resources to fill-in-the-blanks. The cam tower reseal video was also helpful but could have been a lot better if he slowed down and explained a few things instead of playing horrible music over the video.

I also recommend a 2-part video from Timmy the Toolman, but he only does valve cover gaskets: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASOIvxWogWI&t=2476s

I did not film my work but I did take some pictures along the way that may be helpful. I'll post them on here somewhere (where ever the appropriate place is) and I'll let you know...

 

Thanks for the feedback. I expect it will be some work but looks feasible. Luckily for me, my shop has a heat pump and stays around 50F without a heater. I’ve played that work outside in the freezing cold game before; good on you for talking the job in the weather. I know how much more difficult that makes it.

Funny thing - the other dealership I reached out to just called me me back this morning but didn’t leave a message. I expect another outrageous quote.

 

I would recommend pulling the intake manifold and resealing the heat exchanger while you are at it.

 

Depending on mileage, I think I would pull the the engine out. Replace starter, water pump, valley plate, sec. air pump delete, valve spring upgrade, rear main seal, timing tensioners, chains, plugs, clean throttle body, replace thermostat, and maybe even clean out the ring grooves. Basically be GTG for another long spell before I needed to get serious again. Just my .02 though! Good luck!

 

Thought about it. But if going to do that, I’m getting a the bottom end built. Snowballs really quick… haha.

 

My chain cackles quite a bit. I’m hoping I can make it another 4-6mo and save up funds for a supercharger. If I’m that deep into the engine, might as well knock that install out at the same time. There’s your 11k right there. Take a week off from work and enjoy myself/take my time.

Have a feeling the Insider ratchet will prove pretty valuable with this install..

 

Yep, always an excuse reason to buy a new tool

But, ya, that's 11 grand and 11 grand well spent! I loved driving my truck when it was stock... with the SC it's ridiculously fun. As noted above, I spoke with a few dealerships when the chain noise was more intermittent and they all told me to just run it. It's only when I pushed it that they insinuated that my motor will die an ignominious death.



All of my parts have shown up already EXCEPT the chain tensioners, which I ordered from Fred Anderson. You know the part that actually needs to replaced...