Sniv Speed Shop - Custom Parts and Design

No, everything was made right. I was stupid and just made the blade a circle originally, which A. is an exact fit so obviously doesn't fit. And B. since the throttle blade isn't just a 2D object, the blade doesn't end up being a perfect circle. If the blade was perpendicular to the flow path to begin with, as it rotates the trailing edges end up poking up a slight bit higher, so it ends up being a slightly squashed circle. Couple that with the throttle blade doesn't close at vertical, but is a couple degrees shy of that, so it's really taking a cylinder and then cross sectioning it at 2.2deg and getting something that is squashed and stretched into the right shape. I think some throttle bodies get around this by having a lip or some kind of feature that they rest against to actually seal, but mine is just a straight up cylinder so it needs to be precise. I drew the right one in CAD, but since I don't know how accurate the SendCutSend parts are, I offset the perfect outer edge by +/- 5 thou and +/- 10 thou so if the perfect one is slightly off hopefully one of the other ones ends up being a good fit.

The interesting part is the stock throttle body has a lot of air bleed when closed, mine in a lot of ways doesn't look that bad, but since I have so much area if you have a couple thou of bleed all around it ends up being a lot more than a couple thou on the stock throttle body.

 

Great work @snivilous! What bevel angle are you running on the throttle plate edges? 2.2?

 

Right now zero, though I did try a couple blades with a bevel. I'd prefer from a manufacturing simplicity to have it be a straight flat plate, and I think I can get that to seal well enough.

 

As far as I have seen, most have a bevel, so the throttle plate is a little taller than it is wide. An 82 mm bore will have a 83+ mm height. Bevel angle can slightly change how progressive the throttle is as it begins to open, a smaller angle 6 - 7 will create a more progressive opening. A steeper angle 12+ degrees (taller plate) will seal better. Flat plates can stick.

 

Your terminology is throwing me off.... When you say bevel I'm thinking like a chamfer along the edge, so the edge of the plate is angled and not cut perpendicular to the plane of the plate. If you mean the angle of the throttle plate relative to the boresight of the TB and its difference from being a perfect circle, yes the plate at idle is angled and the circle is modified (like taking a tube and cutting it at an angle and using that profile, which I forgot to do on the initial blades I ordered).

My minimum throttle close angle is 87.8deg, but that can drop depending on the plate. As for it sealing better, I don't follow why a steeper angle would necessarily seal better. If anything I would think it'd be worse since your perimeter length would be longer so your total air bleed area would also be higher at the same tolerance stack up for the fitment.

 

Yup, that is what I mean. I had to check and make sure I had it correct, but they are almost the same thing.

Throttle plates need a bevel to function correctly.

As for sealing, the length of the plate bevel to bore interface is longer (as viewed from the side) with the larger angles… that’s my assumption from researching this back when I overbored the t-body for my 08 Tundra. Perhaps that is incorrect and the perimeter length you mention negates it?

EFI Hardware has a nice diagram showing angle vs opening. The progressive nature of the smaller angle is easy to see.

 

Okay, now we're on the same page. Yes I've tried some degree of bevel, but nothing controlled enough to get anything of value from it. Is a bevel required? Maybe, but I hope not for manufacturing simplicity. I guess I'll find out soon.

 

I just looked at my oem 76mm that Maxbore made the bore 79mm. The new brass blade has a slight bevel. I didn't notice a bevel on the 84mm RCF but may be there. The Chinese 103mm did not have a bevel on the blade. Do any of the stock 76mm blades have a bevel?

 

I did a quick search for throttle body plates thinking you can utilize some off the shelf parts to minimize the amount of custom work. I’m sure there’s more but this was just the first site I clicked on.

https://kinsler.com/Shop/product-category/manifold/throttle-plates/

 

I started telling @Jowett last night that the factory one doesn't have a bevel and then threw a square on it, one side doesn't have a bevel but the other side does. The non beveled side is probably the one I can see all the light through.

 

Not a bad idea, though those are wickedly expensive. If I can get a flat plate to work we're talking $5 per versus $45+. And China Nick can no doubt do a bevel, it's just that it goes from a simple laser cutting operation to now needing a mill (unless the laser has an extra axis which it might).

 

No bevel on the NW103

 

While that'd be nice, visually I don't know if there's a way to tell. I just looked at the stock plate a few different ways and half of them made it look like no bevel.

 

Both of my RCF and Kong TBs have a slight bevel (pretty close to square), and both appear to close fully when pressed to 90 degrees I could hear dirt scraping on the RCF TB as it is filthy, so it is a very tight fit. There doesn't appear to be any profiling around the blade on the RCF, actually it seems perfectly round, but there is noticeable profiling in the Kong TB.

 

Guess I'll go fuck off then lol

 

You need to head over to Tacoworld and let them know you got pulleys!! That's the same s/c that goes on the 2nd gen Tacomas

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/trd-magnuson-4-0-supercharger-tips-tricks-and-mods.518932/

Especially if you can make a pulley that doesn't require snout cutting!

 

Is that the 1320 supercharger? The 4Runner guy seemed to think the Tacomas got a 2650 or something different.

 

The 2nd gen tacomas use the 1320. Assuming that's the 4.0 engine. The 3rd Gen taco has the different s/c

 

My old rig

 

Same blower for the FJ also

 

That looks different than the 4Runner one:

 

The 2G uses a MP90 blower. Not the same as the dual VVTi 1GR.

 

Ya I was just noticing that too :-(
i saw the two lobes and got ahead of myself.
Though there is a vt racing kit that uses one that looks the same

https://vtsuperchargers.com/products/vt-racing-toyota-tacoma-4-0-supercharger-kit

 

I was gonna say I was reading through the TW thread and they mentioned different size pulleys, and when I had searched (and according to the guy that bought one) no one offered pulleys for the 4Runner.

 

Just had the first fully successful drive! Couple pictures and a lot of text explaining the trials and tribulations to make it work.



The past week has been an adventure, even just today I was starting to think this might be a hopeless endeavor (right after I bought another 2x stock throttle bodies this morning). I got the new throttle blades on Tuesday, and while they helped a lot, I've still been fighting "TPS stuck open" codes and at a loss as to what that EXACTLY means. I went down the path of trying to figure out what the logic on the stock throttle body is, and I realized that the "default" position is open a couple degrees--that is NOT the closed position. The stock throttle body can get back pedaled to close more than where it's nominally opened, which I hadn't realized. This lead to finding that there's a screw on the stock throttle body that adjusts the default position, which is separate from the actual full closed stop:



And you can see how the throttle stopper isn't touching in the default position. As opposed to mine, where I have a boss as the throttle stopper and nothing else:



And this was confusing, because my throttle body could close more than a stock one. I was under the impression the truck looked at the TPS position and if it was below a certain threshold that was determined to be closed, but mine would close to ~11% TPS where the stock one only goes to 14.9% so why did it think mine was still open? And the idle would seemingly be fine on the truck too. I had a theory that maybe the truck tests the throttle body by back pedaling it from the default position to make sure it can force it more closed than is normally needed. You can see in the above pictures that the torsion spring that's under the gear has a little tang that sticks out, I had been confused why the torsion spring was so insanely complicated but then realized that tang presses against the default position set screw, and this was actually an easy feature to add on mine! I threw it in the mill and bored a hole and tapped it to M5 and that was it!







I could now set the default position, and full closed was more than on the stock throttle body, so hopefully that was the key!

That seemed to make no difference for the best I can tell. Plus, if I set the default position to the same 19.2% TPS as the stock throttle body, the truck would have so much airflow it would start surging. Maybe this was an impossible task? Maybe the truck wanted 14.9% to be full closed, and 19.2% to be the default---would there even be a way to get a 95mm body to work in that range and give the ECM the data it wanted?! I talked to @Mdl since he's run a big TB for awhile with an electronics converter, and he said they had issues and had to program the converter to make it read right. So that sounded even more likely that the converter might be spoofing the signal to the ECM so a big TB could be run and just fake the signal of the TPS so the truck was happy it was in the right range.

To add insult to injury, every time the truck would throw one of these TPS codes it was a cluster to get it to reset properly. HP Tuners couldn't clear the code, so I'd have to unplug the laptop, plug in a different OBD2 module and that would clear it, and sometimes that wouldn't work either. One time I tried to clear it and the check engine light ended up stuck on even though the 4Lo light stopped flashing and the truck said it didn't have a CEL even though the CEL light was on regardless what I did! Another time everything seemed happy and I left the driveway and then it threw a code, but idling around and backing up it was fine! And ANOTHER time, I set the default position high and the engine surged at start up, so I turned it off and unscrewed the default position screw, and started it again and the truck kept surging even though the TB was fully closed at startup! It's like the ECM had a memory and I'd have to jump through hoops to get an actual apples to apples comparison each time. I spent hours with the laptop in the engine bay, cycling the key, changing throttle bodies around, testing TPS positions between the stock one and mine, etc. Essentially reverse engineering why the ECM would keep throwing the stuck open code.

Finally, a couple hours ago I noticed that with the default position around ~16% that the truck would start and roar to life and the idle would be at like 2000rpm. But the idle would slowly fall, like over a 5 minute period. You could watch the TPS slowly backing off, and eventually it threw a stuck open code. I think the stuck open code is because the truck can't hit the target idle rpm, and even though in most cases I thought the idle was fine it might be 100 or 200 rpm high, and the throttle body would fully close and the truck would try and close it more and see the TPS not move and conclude something was blocking it. Essentially the truck couldn't choke itself out if it wanted, so it thought something was wrong. At that point I took the throttle body apart again, made some tweaks to things and tried it again and same this time the rpm kept dropping and the TPS kept dropping and then it got to equilibrium and stopped at 11.0-11.4% TPS! I'm still not sure what the actual full closed is and how close I am to it, but the truck seemed to think it was enough! And then after that it threw a stuck closed code... But I think that one is pretty straightforward.

The stuck closed code I think is thrown when it draws too much power to open, but this isn't as simple as it being hard to open. If you stomp the pedal it will dump power into it to throw the blade open, but where you run into issues is really fine motor control where it barely wants the blade to move and if it's hung up at all it throws a code. Luckily this was easy to fix, there was one spot I could clearly see hanging up, and I also went over everything with higher grit sand paper (versus the belt sander I normally use) as well as a coating of PTFE and she spins real nice now. I do have to "float" the blade into place where you force the throttle body closed and then tighten the fasteners, there's enough slop in the bolt holes if you tighten anywhere but full closed then it can get hung up. I suspect this is why the stock throttle blades appear to be made from bronze so they have some lubrication built into them and can wear down a bit compared to mine being stainless on aluminum so the blade can dig into the aluminum.

After doing those tweaks, the truck fired up and I went for a drive testing the whole operating range and not a single issue! I actually wonder if the default position screw is even needed, theorizing again, I think the truck roaring at startup is entirely based on the default screw position and I wonder if it's a mechanical failsafe so if the TPS isn't online or there's a power issue at startup then the truck can still start without TPS data since the throttle blade is inherently always open, since the TB can be manipulated at startup so it's not like it can't start when the blade is fully closed since it can command it open. And once the truck is running, the default position screw does nothing. I can fully remove it with it running and it changes nothing since the blade is now being actively controlled, so makes sense the default position screw is really like a startup rpm screw and that's it.



Anyway, all hassles aside, this is the first time the truck is actually parked out front and has the 95mm body still installed. For good or bad, I honestly noticed zero difference with the 95mm on. Boost didn't seem to change, throttle response, shifting, all the stuff everyone talks about I didn't notice being an issue. But I only drove it maybe 10 miles mostly seeing if I could get a code to throw. The three guys on the forum with big (90+mm) throttle bodies we had to tweak stuff in the tune to make it run nicely, whether the Toyota parts is what differentiates mine or I just haven't gotten to the point of finding issues or my truck is just special I'm not sure.

Moving on, I have two more throttle bodies showing up which puts me at an additional 3x (not including my personal one) on top of the 2x I've already cut up. In the near future I'll build the second 95mm prototype and get that out and testing. I have a whole slew of changes for the next iteration, but frankly out of the box most of it seems dialed, and 90% of the issues have been related to the throttle blade and TPS and not knowing what the truck actually wants but HOPEFULLY I've gotten that figured out.

 

Awesome work!

 

Posted this in the supercharger thread, but didn't want to clog that so more details here.

I placed an order with China Nick a few weeks ago, this was primarily for shock parts for my friends shock rebuilding company. It started out as some custom wrenches he wanted and then that evolved into actual parts for shocks (Kings, Foxes, Dobinson, etc). Shortly after placing that order I ran out of 1900 Magnuson hubs and sent the last one to the 4Runner guy a few posts back, so I made some design tweaks and threw in my order so shipping could be saved. And a few hours ago I got all the parts!



I ordered 2.0", 2.1", and 2.3" pulleys (I don't have any 2.2" ones anymore, so probably should've thrown a few of those in but people seem to buy either the 2.3" or the 2.0", and the 2.1" is the smallest Tundra pulley that fits the 4Runner so I figured it would become popular). These ones are all 6061-T6 to keep costs down, and the hubs are 304 stainless.



To keep costs down the 4Runner guys will mostly run the Tundra pulley, which down to 2.1" works fine. But at 2.1" it's really tight, so I made some tweaks to the pulley design to thin out the outer flange and chamfer it to clear the 4Runner snout. The 4Runner snout has this weird feature that sticks out next to the bearing bore where as the Tundra is totally flush. You can see the changes below with the updated pulley design on the left, and the old on the right. For a Tundra there is no difference, for a 4Runner it'll just have a bit more breathing room. I think the new design is a bit sexier too, an unintended perk.



While the pulleys are not engraved, the hub has been updated to say "RevD". This is the same hub design as the RevC hubs, but since it's a new manufacturer (RIP Mark) I figured it was worth updating the revision.



The 4Runner and FJC have a different hub offset, so while they can run the Tundra pulleys they need the pulley set back. Below on the left is a Tundra hub and the 4Runner/FJC is on the right. The overall length is the same, the features are the same depth, just pushed closer to the bottom for the 4Runner/FJC.



They are also engraved as 4R/FJC specific. The only issue I've found with everything is on these hubs specifically he misspelled "Sniv" Oh well, funny quirk of the first batch.



I also investigated running the 2.0" pulley on the 4Runner and what lengths I'd have to go to to make it work. The issue with the 2.0" is the inner diameter of the pulley is so small it would collide with the weird boss that sticks out from the supercharger. What I ended up doing was opening the inner diameter up as much as possible (as I recall it's a .040" wall thickness from the belt valley to the inner diameter) and then made it out of 304 stainless. The forward facing part of the pulley is still the same inner diameter as the Tundra, so it's only thinned on one half. Additionally it needed a large chamfer (that I then carried to all the pulleys) and theoretically that should clear. Since this was a one off pulley, I also cut out the front two ribs of the pulley so it's specific to the 4Runner 6-rib belt. You can see the difference of removing the outer two ribs, the depth of the mounting face looks different but it's actually the same.



China Nick actually made two of these pulleys (often he does extra of parts, I'm guessing to just use all the material stock he bought). Today I'm sending out this one to the first/only guy with the 4Runner setup, and then I'll have a second one to sell.



This now brings me up to a bunch of 1900 and 2650 Magnuson pulleys, hopefully some of them will sell, but there are at least four people on a pseudo waiting list that were asking about pulleys, two of which were 4Runner people! I also plan to join some 4Runner forums and groups to advertise the pulleys. Additionally my friend with the shock company might be buying an Audi with a TVS 1320 supercharger and apparently no one makes modular pulleys for that, and good chance my pulleys are a direct fit like the 4Runner was so fingers crossed that could be a market to dip into.

On the note of my friend up north, here's some of the parts I got for him. In total I think there's 18 unique parts, with varying quantities to total like 500+. I spent about 10 hours measuring and designing all the parts and making part prints.









They are absolutely beautiful and the first parts I've had anodized from China Nick. As usual the man absolutely blew it out of the water, I'd like to support US machining but his hardware is on par if not better than anything I've gotten stateside and the price he does lets me do this and help the community, now that Mark is gone (RIP Mark) it's either overseas manufacturing or no manufacturing, unless people want pulleys for $400 in which case I'll do custom orders for them!

Anyway, very excited with all the hardware and the website is updated!

 

Awesome!

 

Can’t wait to get the links and front suspension done should be sick! Awesome work my friend! Miles’s stuff looks amazing

 

I just got off the phone with a local guy that was asking if I can design a link kit with cantilever for his Tundra too