Extremely Cheap! 5.29 gears. Motive gears OK?

Not sure it matters with the Speedmaster, Lucas has friction modifiers in it. I use Valvoline conventional 80w-90, it does not have any friction modifier as recommended for the Grip Pro. Not easy to find conventional gear oil without friction modifier. Zuk told me not to run heavier gear oil than oem recommended also, no winter here. It’s nice that he will respond to questions on diy installs.

 

Lucas Dino/conventional oil was the only slippery stuff that wouldn’t make my oem lsd chatter

 

The speedmaster need the friction from the conventional oil. The tech at speedmaster did say 80/90 would be ok but the lucas 85-140 would give the most benefit.
It's been awhile since I did gears and his site got me right back where I needed to be. Nothing like in the middle of pressing the pinion off and the press jack craps out. Hoping for no interruptions tomorrow. Will getcthe carrier pulled tonight and get started. Wait on the overpriced rear pinion seal. I could of ordered 2 for what the gouged me for!

 

They did say synthetic in the 85-140 could be used but that it may loose friction. I'm sending an email to have documentation for the oil types. They stated the phone call was recorded and warranty will apply for the oil they stated. I just like a solid answers!

 

What OEM LSD?

Apologies if the 1st gen’s actually had an OEM LSD. I’m familiar with the 2nd gen and their “Auto LSD” that is simply traction control…. There wasn’t anything in my factory rear differential that looked like anything other than a basic open carrier.

 

Well I am not having much luck the the vender on Amazon. I selected exchange when processing the return, instead they refunded my money and now the gearset costs more. I asked what the deal was and they said their internal "system" doesn't do exchanges yet they blame the pricing on Amazon's system. I tried to return the front gear set and they wanted to charge shipping. F-that, they messed up and now it is costing me money.

 

The first gens are a proper truck…

 

-Superior gen
Just kidding, I was just giving my take on oils, ecgs has a good write up on diff oils
https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/ft-...o7wWTlCjhQjzbmZ1KQwUrchxe98IReQsAt-l9obrj2hZI

 

That really bites! I thought of returning the 5.29's and getting the motive 4.88 rear and USA standard front 4.88 for under $275 when they were discounted last month. But kept reading and decided to go with 5.29. Plus my return lapsed...

 

That’s annoying. I’d explain the situation to an Amazon representative and see if they can help resolve it and get you an exchange at the same price. Did you already ship the original set back?

 

@Silver17 I believe having the gears REM polished will help these Motive gears out. Especially when Ken mentioned doing a longer slow break in process on Motive gears to avoid issues. Just to caution anyone doing or running new gears and if you hear any whine on acceleration slow down and question the installer. Have them take pics of the pattern that they settle on if available to do so.

 

Not that it matters now, but I've run the Lucas standard 85-140 and it pours like molasses. Almost stringy. Ran that for a few years with ~10k mile annual changes. I did that for the Grip Pro.

Earlier this season I swapped to the Nitro full synthetic, 80-140 without modifiers and without any negative to the Grip Pro performance.

The concern over the oils being really thick, especially in truly cold temps, is real. I'm fairly certain it's also a cause for a slight decrease in MPG. Maybe a 75-90 would work, I just haven't seen a reason to test it. FWIW, Nitro also supported the use of the Lucas 85-140 (details found in one of the other regearing threads).

 

Pretty sure I have Valvoline 80w90 non synthetic in my rear diff that was put in with the Powertrax. I’ll probably stick with that even with the new gears. My mechanic seemed to really like using it.

 

Valvoline is good. Powertrax also recommends Mobilube, been running that for a couple years.

 

About 80,000 miles on my Powertrax now with nothing but basic-ass Valvoline 75/90 dino oil. Sounds and drives same as ever.
I change it annually, which is about 26K miles.

 

I just found the details provided by Nitro. Their biggest push was for a quality synthetic but said Lucas 85-140 would be fine. Still good to know the Nitro oil was a Schaffers blend.

I might need to do more research on how much (if any) more heat the 5.29s create and if I'm cool towing with 75-90 or not given that research. I hadn't gone there because Nitro and ECGS both said 80 or 85-140. I vaguely remember my research mostly being people talking about how the heavier weight helping with shock load and whine and how towing is the devil.

For all you wicked smaht people, here's the consolidated data I know I've spattered across the different threads. Hope this helps the discussion, though I suspect it will end up being just like any other oil/fluid topics: use what you can afford and change it often. I suspect for most of us that means rear diff only, annually, especially on dino oil. I'll leave the Powertrax discussion alone because even their own instructions were once contradictory to themself.

From Nitro:
"NO THATD BE GREAT IM SURE , HERE WE RUN AN 80W-140 MADE FOR US BY SCHAFFERS; HAS A PARAFINIC BASE SO THERES NO NEED FOR FRICTION MODIFIERS.

I THOUGHT IT WAS FUNNY WHEN I LEARNED THAT’S WHAT WE USE HERE , MY GRANDFATHER WAS AN EXCAVATOR AND USED THAT BRAND OF OIL IN EVERYTHING HE OWNED HAHA. THE TOP OF THE LINE SYNTHETICS CAN DECREASE THE HEAT INSIDE THE DIFF BY UP TO 35 % , THAT’S THE MOST IMPORTANT PART ABOUT IT"

From ECGS website:
Description
This is the oil that we recommend in every differential that we sell and build, you won't find a better quality oil on the market! Sold Per Quart

ECGS signature blocks:
ECGS Sales
566 Airport Rd
Louisburg, NC 27549
www.EastCoastGearSupply.com
919-672-2705


We recommend 85w140 Non-Synthetic Lucas in all differentials!

 

Product information sheet from Valvoline states

$39 75w-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75w-90 is both synthetic and contains friction modifier. The information sheets from 80w-90/85w-140 state they are conventional oil and do not have friction modifier.

 

My bad, I am actually using the 80w90 not 75/90.Had to check an old post I made about the gear oil I was using.

 

140 seems super thick for anything that isnt drag racing or towing a lot

 

Oopsies!!! Same for me. Definitely not synthetic. Just had my numbers off a hair.

 

I've purchased the 5.29 gears, I don't even run 35" tires yet. Who can I send them out to for polishing? My googlefoo is failing me.

 

@Silver17 who did you send yours out to?

 

I dropped mine off in person at ASF Motorsport in Quakertown, PA. I do believe you could ship them there though if you wanted, since a guy named Barry that I spoke with on the phone asked if I was shipping them. $150/set plus tax. https://maps.app.goo.gl/iX2YX8QTkMXBdw8F7?g_st=com.google.maps.preview.copy

 

Just got ripped off at my local dealership for a pinion seal. If I drove another 20 minutes I would of saved $$. I needed it and was my doing so...

 

That's pretty fair!
I just got a quote from RaceGearBox.com

REM processing for 2 sets: $230.00 each.
Cryo processing: $260.00 for both sets.
Total: $720.00

Waiting on a quote back from another place

 

Price of convenience. Hopefully you are making good use of the time saved!

 

I'm going to send my gears to this place. REM Black only. No Cryo.
REM Polished Ring & Pinions and Rear Axle Components - New England Gear Polishing

 

Exactly. Had to do some shopping so got delayed. Got a lot better pattern and will button it up tonight at least the diff and axles are in.

 

Dropped off my gears at ASF Motorsport for their ASF treatment. Super nice guys who are passionate about their craft.

They sent me these pictures once they removed the factory black oxide coating on the gears. The mark on the pinion threads and the splines shouldn’t matter and I don’t think the tiny dents on the gear surface will even make contact with the ring gear. I don’t think any of the 3 blemishes will make a difference with quality or longevity, so I approved work to continue.

Thanks for doing the legwork finding a local polisher, @Silver17!

 

I’m no expert but I’d agree those look like pretty inconsequential blemishes to me. No problem! Glad you’re happy with your experience so far with ASF. It was definitely a nice painless experience dealing with them and dropping off/picking up in person. The end result is pretty awesome as well.