2017 Toyota Tundra Crew Max SR5 4x4 - Gen 2 - CRITIQUE MY SUSPENSION PLAN

Team,

I'm not a suspension guy, so this is my first attempt at what I think I might "need" (or at least do at some point) to make sure my Tundra is properly setup and able to utilize 35" tires without zero issues after a 3" lift based on reading the forums, YouTube and a ton of talking to Toyota club folks in SoCal. Doing this myself with help from friends, including a welder so I have good support. No personal experience or knowledge, and appreciate the help of the Team to sanity check what I've come up with (who knows - it may be garbage). Not sure however what is a want, vs need, or what I can delay or do later as smaller projects (if required).

I don't think I'll go to 37s (or at least not for a long time) unless I get a second car, but who knows. I take the Tundra off-road, when I can, mostly overland now. I don't tow very often or have a camper (yet), but would like to get a pull behind at some point in the future, nothing huge, just for the wife, me and dog.

There are multiples of some items indicated with an "Or", which is where I wasn't sure what the best/ideal choice is, and appreciate any help/advice.

If I'm missing something please let me know, and conversely, if it’s not required, appreciate the heads up.

Thanks in advance and hopefully I got close. What I haven't done (yet) is work on a phasing/build plan - that TBD based on the feedback.

SUSPENSION

FOX PERFORMANCE ELITE 2.5 COIL-OVER RESERVOIR SHOCKS - FRONT (3")
FOX PERFORMANCE ELITE 2.5 COIL-OVER RESERVOIR SHOCKS HYPERLINK

FOX PERFORMANCE ELITE 2.5 RESERVOIR SHOCKS - REAR (2" - 3")
FOX PERFORMANCE ELITE 2.5 RESERVOIR SHOCKS- HYPERLINK

JBA HD HC Upper Control Arms (UCA) - 1 to 3.5” lift
JBA HD HC Upper Control Arms for 1 - 3.5” lift

Perry Parts AB3F Front Bump Stops
Perry Parts AB3F Front Bump Stops - Hyperlink

Total Chaos Weld-On Spindle Gussets
TOTAL CHAOS Spindle Gussets Hyperlink

DRT Fabrication Cab Mount Relocation
DRT Cab Mount Relocation Hyperlink

Perry Parts AB3R Rear Bump Stops
Perry Parts Rear Bump Stops Hyperlink

CoachBuilder +2" Shackle Kit
CoachBuilder +2" Shackle Kit Hyperlink

Deaver 3 Leaf Overload Replacement 1 1/2" Lift (Pair)
Deaver 3 Leaf Overload Replacement 1 1/2" Lift (Pair) Hyperlink

DOBINSONS REAR U-BOLTS (UB59-437K)
Dobinsons Rear U-Bolts UB59-437K - HYPERLINK

DRIVETRAIN

CVJ AXLE SET 95501TR
CVJ Axles 95501 TR - HYPERLINK
NOTE: Only if required to maintain proper geometry

RCV ULTIMATE IFS CV AXLE SET
RCV Ultimate IFS CV Axle Set - Hyperlink
NOTE: Only if unable to maintain proper geometry with CVJ axle set

COACHBUILDER CARRIER BEARING DROP KIT (REAR LIFT 3”-4”)
COACHBUILDER CARRIER BRG DROP KIT Hyperlink

Coachbuilder 4WD Differential Drop Kit (1")
CoachBuilder Differential Drop Kit (1") - HYPERLINK

COACHBUILDER REAR DRIVELINE SPACER (10.5” REAR AXLE)
Coachbuilder Spacer 10.5” Rear .75” HYPERLINK
NOTE: Only if required

Yukon Ring & Pinion Gear Package (5.29) (YGKT001-529) (F 9"/R 10.5")
Yukon Ring & Pinion 5.29 Gear Package Hyperlink

BRAKES

Old Man Emu Brake Line and ABS Wire Relocation Kit (FK32)
SDHQ 6 PIECE BRAIDED BRAKE LINE KIT
SDHQ 6 PIECE BRAKE LINE KIT Hyperlink

STEERING

COACHBUILDER REPLACEMENT STEERING KIT
Coachbuilder Steering Kit HYPERLINK

COACHBUILDER POWER STEERING RACK POLY BUSHING KIT
COACHBUILDER STEERING BUSHING HYPERLINK

Total Chaos Lower Control Arm CAM TAB WELD-ON REINFORCEMENTS (PART 59870)
Total Chaos CAM TAB REINFORCEMENT Hyperlink

EXTERIOR

RCI Arapaho Front Bumper
RCI Arapaho Front Bumper Hyperlink

RCI Engine Skid Plate
RCI Metal Works Engine Skid Plate Hyperlink

ARK - TriXpoly Splash Guards & Mudflap Micros
TriXpoly Splash Guards & Mudflap Hyperlink

Cali Raised TRAIL EDITION ROCK SLIDERS
Cali TRAIL EDITION ROCK SLIDERs Hyperlink

CoachBuilder Front Bumper Shim Kit
CoachBuilder Front Bumper Shim Kit Hyperlink

SS Built Tundra Bed Stiffeners
SS Built Tundra Bed Stiffeners Hyperlink

Fab Fours Vengeance (Sensor) Rear Bumper (TT14-E2852-1)
Fab Fours Vengeance Rear Bumper Hyperlink

WHEELS

Method Race Wheels 313
17"x8.5" / +25mm Offset / 5.8" Backspace / 24.7 lbs
Method Race Wheels 313 Hyperlink
Or
ICON Vehicle Dynamics Rebound SLX
17"x8.5" / +25mm Offset / 5.75" Backspace / 31 lbs
Icon Rebound - Titanium Wheels Hyperlink
Or
Stealth Custom Wheels Ray10
17" x 9.0" / +25mm Offset / 6.00" Backspace / 24.5 lbs
Note 8: Method 313 DISCONTINUED

Gorilla Auto Small Diameter Spline Duplex E-T Lug Nuts - 13/16" & 7/8" - 14x1.50mm (K5ES-14150BGR)
Gorilla Small Diameter Spline Duplex E-T Lug Nuts - 14x1.50 Hyperlink

FearRLess Longer Wheel Studs 14x1.5 - 1.85" Thread Length
Longer Wheel Studs 14x1.50 Hyperlink
Or
Wheeler's Off-Road - 8 Extended Length 2" Top Plate Stud Set (WOR-TP-STUD-X8) Or
Kyo-Ei Hub Bolt M14x1.5
KYO-EI HUB BOLT M14xP1.5 SBLC - Black Hawk Japan

TIRES

Toyo Open Country A/T III - 35x11.5/R17LT - 63 lbs - $368
Toyo Open Country A/T III Hyperlink
Or
BF GOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A KO - 35x12.5/17LT - 63 lbs - $376
Or
COOPER DISCOVERER AT3 XLT - LT315x70/R17LT - 64 lbs - $219
Or
FIRESTONE DESTINATION X/T - 35x12.5/R17LT - 60 lbs - $354

 

Why you need bed stiffeners? C-channel frame is specially done for better suspension articulation and better wheels contact with pavement. Add stiffeners and you have a great stress point that is not intended to be there. If you want better cornering - add a rear sway bar. For offroading leave it alone, let it articulate.

There's exactly zero ground clearance practical difference between 34.x" and 35". If you have 34.x" already then it is as good as it will be with 35". I run on 33", because 1" in my offroading conditions (deep snow) does not do anything besides looks, and 33" are good 30% cheaper than 35".

Every inch to suspension lift adds considerably more to turning radius. Think twice. Every inch is a higher center of mass, think twice. Most of cheaper suspension mods don't do good for articulation, this is the opposite of what you want away from pavement. Stock suspension parts are beefy, you sure then intended upgrade parts are as reliable? Blow something on a rock, now what?

No steel front bumper, no winch? This is actually what you find useful when offroading. Also must have steel skids plates all the way to transfer case. And steel skid for the gas tank. Hi-lift jack or any other that will raise the truck in air out in the field. Automotive set of tools for elementary repairs when you break your truck. A full size spare wheel. All fluids replaced regularly, in much shorter intervals. A tablet with diagnostic software and repair manuals.

 

Iis this a joke, or for real?

 

What exactly?

 

lol I’ve had that guy muted for ages. One of my better decisions in 2024.

hit up @memario1214 and he will get you fully dialed in on suspension. Dude is a wealth of knowledge and has great pricing/customer service.

 

Also for bed stiffeners, check out total chaos or R4T as well.

Sliders comes down to preference. You cant go wrong with RCI, Wescott, SDHQ, or Cali Raised. Even C4- just pick which ones fit your needs (fab time, delivery cost, top or no top, angle). My wescott sliders are amazing and take abuse in moab with no problems at all.

for bumpstops- I run perry parts. I highly recommend these- they have been a massive benefit at a low cost. I run all 4 up front in the bigger size (not the long travel).

you don’t need the DRT BMR for 35’s. I cleared 35’s at full turn and full flex with just a body mount chop. I do have a DRT BMR now- but this was done for the upgrade to 37’s and was not needed for 35’s. A badass upgrade- just find a good welder.

everything else- you are asking the right questions. Im just not educated enough on suspension to give you the right answers.

Also- If you plan on wheeling the truck to any extent… your stock rear bumper is going to be a problem. To the point I would recommend looking into a high clearance rear bumper before a front. Depends on what sort of terrain you see.

 

thanks I just did the same.

I’ll shoot memario1214 a note and appreciate the help

 

lol no prob. I added some more info to my reply but hopefully thats helpful.

 

Unless you’re doing 60+ mph on whoops, I’d ditch the spindle reinforcements, bed stiffener, shock tower reinforcements, LCA reinforcements, etc…
Not sure you’ll need to push the front bumper forward for 35s. My TRD Pro only rubbed on the aero flaps in front of my front tires.
I wouldn’t touch the stock CVs until you have an issue.
I’d pull the trigger on Fox parts, UCA, deavers, coachbuilder bushings & steering arm. (I’d also look at coachbuilders lift shackle vs the rest).
Install all that + the protection you’re talkin about and I think you’ve got a bombproof trail rig.

 

heck yeah! Thank you, but what are “deavers”?

 

Leafy springies.

 

RCI Engine Skid Plate
RCI Metal Works Engine Skid Plate Hyperlink
NOTE 3: Need to verify that this is compatible with lowered differential
NOTE 4: BDS Suspension Front Differential Drop Kit BDS128006 comes with skid plate spacers

The RCI skids also come with a spacer for a lowered diff.

 

Thanks to everyone for the help, I’ve updated the list, but left some items in case it helps anyone else.

Working wheels now, and updated above for all the 17s I could find from google.

Thanks again and stoked for the build and future upgrades!

 

Thank you to everyone who helped above, and especially Dirty Deeds, CoachBuilder, Fox, King , 88Rotors, and others who gave me some great advice and guidance. I think (safely) I have a much better understanding of what I need to do and updated the original post and tried to sequence in a way that made sense. Appreciate any update, inputs, feedback, corrections, etc.

I still have some questions, but considerably less than at the beginning thanks to the Team!

Cheers,
Jay!


STAGE 1: PRE-SUSPENSION INSTALL

• 1A: DRT Fabrication Cab Mount Relocation
  • DRT Cab Mount Relocation Hyperlink

STAGE 2: SUSPENSION (Level - 2" Lift)

• 2A: STEERING
  • 2A-1: Coachbuilder Replacement Steering Kit
    • Coachbuilder Steering Kit Hyperlink
  • 2A-2: Coachbuilder Power Steering Rack Poly Bushing Kit
    • CoachBuilder Power Steering Rack Poly Bushing Kit Hyperlink

• 2B: SUSPENSION (FRONT)
  • 2B-1: FRONT BUMP STOPS
    • CoachBuilder Front Bump Stop Kit
      • CoachBuilder Front Bump Stop Kit Hyperlink
    • Perry Parts AB3F Front Bump Stops
      • Perry Parts AB3F Front Bump Stops - Hyperlink
      • NOTE 1: Not sure which is recommended? - both seem great
  • 2B-2: FOX Performance Elite 2.5 Coil-Over Front Reservoir Shocks – 883-06-187 (2" - 3" lift)
    • Performance Elite 2.5 Coil-Over Reservoir Shocks Hyperlink
  • 2B-3: CoachBuilder Strut / Coilover Shim (.25" Lift Per Shim)
    • CoachBuilder Strut / Coil-Over Reservoir Shocks Hyperlink
      • NOTE 2: 2 (driver side front - L) / 1 (passenger - front - R)
  • 2B-4: CoachBuilder Strut / CoilOver Shim BOLT KIT
    • CoachBuilder Strut / CoilOver Shim Bolt Kit Hyperlin
      • NOTE 3: Required for strut shims in 1A-3
  • 2B-5: JBA HD HC Upper Control Arms (UCA) - 1 to 3.5” Lift
    • JBA HD HC Upper Control Arms Hyperlink

• 2C: SUSPENSION (REAR)
  • 2C-1: Perry Parts AB3R Rear Bump Stops
    • Perry Parts Rear Bump Stops Hyperlink
  • 2C-4: CoachBuilder Polyurethane Bushing Kit (Leaf Spring Eyelets)
    • Coachbuilder Polyurethane Bushing kit Hyperlink
  • 2C-6: FOX PERFORMANCE ELITE 2.5 RESERVOIR SHOCKS – Rear (0" - 1.5" lift) 883-26-117
    • Performance Elite Series 2.5 Reservoir Shock Hyperlink

• 2D: DRIVETRAIN (REAR)
  • 2D-1: CoachBuilder 4WD Front Differential Drop Kit
    • CoachBuilder 4WD Differential Drop Kit
  • 2D-2: CoachBuilder Carrier Bearing Drop Kit
    • Coachbuilder Carrier Bearing Drop Kit Hyperlink
      • NOTE 4: Included with CoachBuilder Shackle Kit
  • 2D-3: CoachBuilder Rear DriveLine Spacer (10.5” REAR AXLE)
    • Coachbuilder Spacer 10.5” Rear .75” Hyperlink
      • NOTE 5: Only if required
• 2E: BODY
  • 2E-1: CoachBuilder Front Bumper Shim Kit
    • CoachBuilder Front Shim Kit Hyperlink
• 2F: BRAKES
  • 2F-1: CoachBuilder Rear Brake / ABS Relocation Kit
    • CoachBUilder Rear Brake / ABS Relocation Kit
  • 2F-2: SDHQ Six Piece Braided Brake Line Kit (SDHQ-BL-53-1053)
    • SDHQ Six Piece Brake Line Kit Hyperlink

• 2G: WHEELS & TIRES
  • 2G-1: STUDS ( WHEEL )
    • FearRLess Longer Wheel Studs 14x1.5 - 1.85" Thread Length
      • FearRLess Longer Wheel Studs 14x1.50 Hyperlink
    • Wheeler's Off-Road - 8 Extended 2" Top Plate Stud Set (WOR-TP-STUD-X8)
    • Kyo-Ei Hub Bolt M14x1.5
      • KYO-EI HUB BOLT M14xP1.5 SBLC - Black Hawk Hyperlink
    • NOTE 6: May be required due to short lug length
      • Not sure which is best (or better options)?
      • If required - should I move to 1A?
  • 2G-2: WHEELS
    • ICON Recon SLX - Charcoal
      • Icon Recon SLX - Charcoal - Hyperlink
        • 17" x 8.5" / +25mm Offset / 5.75" BS
  • 2G-3: WHEEL LUGs
    
    • Gorilla Spline Duplex ET Lug Nuts - 13/16" & 7/8" - 14x1.50mm
      • Gorilla Small Diameter Spline Duplex ET Lug Nuts Hyperlink
  • 2G-4: WHEEL LOCKs
    • Gorilla Lock Set - Duplex Acorn - 13/16" & 7/8" 14x150mm (744N)
      • Gorilla Lock Set - Duplex Acorn - 14x150mm Hyperlink
  • 2G-5: TIRE(S)
    • Toyo Open Country A/T III (285/75R17) 355690
      • Toyo Open Country A/T III Hyperlink

STAGE 3: EXTERIOR

• 3A: ARK - TriXpoly Splash Guards & Mudflap Micros
  • TriXpoly Splash Guards & Mudflap Hyperlink
• 3B: RCI Arapaho Front Bumper
  • RCI Arapaho Front Bumper Hyperlink
• 3C: RCI Engine Skid Plate
  • RCI Metal Works Engine Skid Plate Hyperlink
• 3D: Fab Fours Vengeance (Sensor) Rear Bumper
  • Fab Fours Vengeance Rear Bumper Hyperlink
• 3E: Cali Raised Trail Edition Rock Sliders
  • Cali Trail Edition Rock Sliders Hyperlink
    • NOTE 7: Will LINE-X pre-install
• 3F: ESP Under Seat Long Box Lockable Storage
  • ESP Under Seat Long Box Lockable Storage Hyperlink

STAGE 4: AS REQUIRED

• 4A: Yukon Ring & Pinion Gear Package (5.29) (YGKT001-529) (F 9"/R 10.5")
  
  • Yukon Ring & Pinion 5.29 Gear Package Hyperlink
• 4B: Total Chaos Weld-On Spindle Gussets
  • TOTAL CHAOS Spindle Gussets Hyperlink
    • NOTE 8: If required
• 4C: Total Chaos Lower Control Arm CAM Tab Weld-On Reinforcements
  • Total Chaos Cam Tab Reinforcement Hyperlink
    • NOTE 9: Only if required
• 4D: Dobinsons Leaf Spring (Pair) (2.1" lift) (L59-120-R)
  
  • Dobinsons Rear Leaf Spring Pair Hyperlink
    • NOTE 10: If Required
• 4E: CoachBuilder Polyurethane Bushing Kit (Leaf Spring Eyelets)
  
  • Coachbuilder Polyurethane Bushing kit Hyperlink
• 4F: DOBINSONS REAR U-BOLTS (UB59-437K)
  
  • Dobinsons Rear U-Bolts UB59-437K - Hyperlink
    • NOTE 11: IF REQUIRED
  • 5G: SS Built Tundra Bed Stiffeners - REMOVED

 

Sounds like a nice built you get yourself intoo

You dont specified what type of wheeling you do or want to do ; are you gonna rip desert at 60 MPH or slowly wheel up some rocky trails ?

I dont think steering kit , neither spindel gussets or up-graded axels are a neccesity ! If you want to slowly wheel up some rocky trails : i would focus on a more articulated suspension set-up and perhaps ditch some reinforced parts to add some more rock protection like rock slidders , and some high angle of attack FR and RR bumpers

Also dont go with an ''add On'' leaf kit, but go on a full leaf set that suits your needs ( fast whoops oriented or slow rock crawling oriented to maximised articulation )
Same goes on the valving type of the shock you choose !

Gear sets on 35 is REALLY a must to me, while in there you should considere a eaton Elocker for the rear if you gonna enjoy crawling some trails . i dont think you need more then a cab mount plate weld to fit 35'' with no rubbing on a 3/2 lift kit .

i run 34's'' with a trans. tune and i will eventually go to a 4.88 gear set , cant imagine 35 on stock gears/stock tune ... it must be horrible on highway and wayyyy too tall on the trail !!

Again , its unclear on what type of wheeling you are/want to get intoo so a bunch of parts might not be needed , an some other should be consider ! Fast vs crawling can change a lots of parts choices and shocks tuning , and save you some money to ultimatly put parts where needed and maximised you truck performance and handling regarding on what type of terrain/ wheeling you do !

Tire choices seems allright , those new Falken RT or At4 worth a look too ! Also E or C Rated can change suspensions dymanics, depend on the terrain you ride the most ! I personally run E-loaded because i run LOTS of rock at fast speed air down at 20 PSI , but i wish i could runs C tires to save some unsuspended weight and a general smoother ride !

If i'd run more sand and slow speed, i would run C loaded all day for sure .

 

Basicly i wanted to say your parts choice seems base on ''lift'' only , rather then Maximum travel or performance on the terrain you want to wheel on !

For exemple the rear shackels might not be needed with a leaf pack and rear shocks combos design for max wheel travel or max articulation etc !

let us know what parts you order and what type of terrain you'd wheel ontoo !

 

Man, that is a pretty exhaustive list. I have the exact same trim and package truck, except it’s a ‘21. What has worked super well for me is just putting the TRD Fox suspension kit and RAS on it with some skinny 35s.

The benefit of the TRD Fox kit is that it’s almost a mid-travel kit that bolts right in with zero mods needed for UCAs or anything else. The RAS acts like a sway bar but also kinda like KDSS at slow speeds offroad where you still can get great articulation in the rear.

The 285/75R18s fit on OEM wheels with OEM offset, again with no cutting to fender well plastics or chopping and moving the cab mounts. The downside is they need rebuilt within 50k miles, less if you’re off pavement often. I’m now looking at the Bilstein 8100s, which will require UCAs and less positive wheel offset. But the setup I just outlined got me up and running for minimal time and $$$ and worked well for me for a few years.

Just a comment on two points that vtl made:

The bed stiffeners thing. I run them, but I understand the argument for not. They’re kind of a bandaid and simply transfer movement to the next, weaker link in the chain. The argument against them is, maybe we shouldn’t use our bedsides to combat frame twisting.

And yeah, that’s a pretty strong argument.

The reason I run them anyway is because I noticed my aluminum roll cover twisting in a weird way and needing to be retightened. If I had a ton of weight in the bed, I probably wouldn’t run them, but I’m generally only at 3-500 lb even loaded up for camping. They keep my bedsides square so my roll cover operates like it should. If I start seeing pinch welds coming apart at the front of the bed or stress around the bolts that actually mount the bed to the frame, I will remove them.

The best mod to combat frame and bed flexing is boxing the frame, which several members have done.

Secondly, a nominal 35x12.5 tire measures 34.5” in diameter, and when it’s on the truck under a load, it’s even less. My 285/75R18s measure 34.8” on some rims, and 35.1” on others. What I notice though, is that at ~40psi and mounted on the truck, they’re barely taller than 34”. They were still the very best option for me to get extra ground clearance with zero cutting or chopping anything to make them fit. Remember, you only gain ground clearance at the axles with larger diameter tires.

It’s so easy to spiral out of control with mods. Now that I’m considering the Bilstein kit, it makes me think I might as well go to 37s lol

 

Thanks everyone for the responses! Very much appreciated!

I've done some rock crawling in the Tundra in stock form, and it did amazing for how pudgy and long it is but would rather not do anymore. I think I lost a few pounds and added some gray hairs at Anza Borrego. Looking to stick to overland type fun and areas that look somewhat like roads or at least desert without boulders I have to drive up and over. Kids and Dad like to go fast, but typically stick to the sand washes. There are some rocks, small streams you have to go up/over and across to get to some great camping, but nothing insane. The Tundra club out here does some very cool stuff, but requires 35" tires, not sure about the Tundras to Sedona event. This truck gets me to and from work 95% of the time, and when I can (weekends) trips to the desert. Long past my really stupid days, now just kind of stupid, so not driving really fast and not looking to smash my truck on boulders and get stuck in the desert either. Done both in the past.

Copy that!

Those should be in the plan above, are you saying those are not suitable? Just a little confused and appreciate the clarification.

In regards to the leaf springs (rear) - Deaver or Dobinson or doesn't matter?
Specific to tuning, I was thinking of taking it to the Accutune folks here in San Diego, unless there is another / better / easier option I can do myself when I install. Appreciate any insight in to that!

I've thought about the Eaton or ARB, but wasn't sure I really needed it for the JV level of stuff I'm probably going to be doing, I'm assuming (need to do some google) the E-Locker doesn't require an air system/pump. Not sure my use case necessitates it (which I failed to put above).

Agreed, I have a master welder who can do either for the price of beer, so I thought why not it to completion do to avoid any subsequent re-work when the labor may not be free and if I decide to run 37s someday (unlikely) I could (but probably won't).
May be flawed logic, but that was my thought process.

Absolutely, I have another thread specific to tires/wheels. I chose the above as kind of a "worst case" dimension wise. I don't see my use case requiring the E rated and I think I can save some weight, especially with some of the tires around 60 lbs being 8 ply.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/gen...-long-time-listener-first-time-caller.152823/

Agreed! The issue is I don't have that expertise or experience level. Not sure if an added leaf or leaf pack + shackle or a new leaf pack is the best approach, or which combination does or does not require an extended shackle. Not something I've done before. Previous work was just return things back to OEM when they broke vice modify so appreciate the help and advice tremendously. I've seen mixed reviews on Icon on the forum so I can give Deaver and Dobison a call.

Gotcha, not sure what the RAS is though? I do need to get some new UCAs anyway which is why I was going with JBA and the price is nearly OEM and have the lifetime warranty.

I scored some Icon Recon SLX 17x8.5 +25 offset wheels ($100 each) so I down that path already unfortunately.

Nice, I've not heard about or familiar with boxing the frame, but I'll check that out, may be something I can beg the welder for with another case of beer!

I sympathize and seem to be going the same path...lol.

 

I love how you put details and so much organized info in your tread ! Thats what i do at work and love to work with people with that much level of details haha !

Keep in mind ; sometimes less is more , and its SO easy to get lost in all the part and set-up availble for our trucks . sometimes to much mix and match get things worst , or it can cost lots of money to learn and waste on not adequate or optimal parts . sometimes parts dont work well together !

The key to a good set-up is balance between parts, and there is always a compromise to make somewhere , so it work best where we want , and less in some situation ( Linear VS degressif shock , for exemple ! )

it seems you are not going to be Very hardcore in your wheeling, and if the truck is used 95% on the street ; there is no need to oriented the set-up in a very hardcore set-up and off-road oriented . Something very soft for whoops will not handle well on the streets

More fancy parts also means more maintenance and more money , and more part dosent always equal more performance or more reliability , it can even make a truck less capable or under perform !

Our truck are very capable from factory and made VERY sturdy and durable : They can take a BEATING with stock parts and component , only with a few bolt-ons .

I can only speak for myself and my own experience , but i run an Icon LTX leaf pack for almost a year now and they have been flawless , pair with a set of 8100 By-pass bilsteins and i'm very please on how they handle and perform and they have been abuse and beat to hell !

I chose the RTX because i tow and haul a lots of different weight and i wasent sure on how they will perform , so with this kit i was able to put more or less spring rate accordingly if needed . i end up using them on the medium leaf adjusment pair with blue sumos and its been the perfect balance for me and my need !

If i had a set-up that weight about always the same ( like an overland set-up in the box ) i think a Deaver Pack made for my weight would have been a good choice . More travel IS always better ; some leaf and shock combos are made for this , like my RTX and 8100 combos... i know fox and icon have some combos for this too and i would suggest you look intoo these option !

My set-up is not the smootest at slow speed in washboard and smaller road inputs , but it really shine at speed. the more i beat on them, the best it perform. it can out-perform the truck chassis EASYLY . And thats exactly what i wanted , it also behave so good on the street and highway , much better then the stock SR5 it was , more stabe and more planted ! Not sure it would be best in crawling and slow speed wheeling . something linear damp softer would work better for sure .

Dont over think THAT much , choose a vendor you trust and go from there : they will make sure you buy parts that works together and are well balance for your need !

i always use the rule of 3 : call 3 vendor , have them a quote for a base set-up , and see who had the best set-up/best advise for you ! Dont buy a price ; buy a service/knowledge from an experience shop and vendor !

Start simple with bolt-on , Say 4 shocks , a leaf pack and whats needed to go together ( diff drop , shims , bump stops etc ) and go from there... ride the truck and you will soon enough know what to add or not from there from your typical week-end wheeling and also what compromise you want that keeps the truck friendly to commute to work !


There is SO much info on youtube you must already know for our truck , Like ''Thinkerer adventure'' chanel and the guys from Shock surplus have TONS of very nice technicals content to help you make your mind and understand suspensions dynamics , it worth the watch and re-watch to help chose the kind of set-up youd enjoy on your truck the best !

 

I'm going to pull back to 34" tires based on the lack of need to re-gear, and if I want to go off-road (insane level) I'll just pick up another wheel set to avoid destroying my daily driver MPG, suspension wear/tear, tires, and the reduced on road performance. A 2" lift up front should pretty much level the truck with the OEM springs. Thanks to everyone, especially Dave at CoachBuilder.

STAGE 1: BODY (Level – 2” Lift w / 34” Tires)

• 1A: CoachBuilder Front Bumper Shim Kit: $98
  • CoachBuilder Front Shim Kit Hyperlink

STAGE 2: BRAKES

• 2A: CoachBuilder Rear Brake / ABS Relocation Kit: $26
  • CoachBuilder Rear Brake / ABS Relocation Kit Hyperlink

STAGE 3: SUSPENSION (Level – 2” Lift w / 34” Tires)

• 3A: STEERING
  • 3A-1: Coachbuilder Replacement Steering Kit: $416
    • Coachbuilder Steering Kit Hyperlink
    • NOTE: Alignment specs vs JBA HD HC UCA?
      • JBA
        • Camber: +.2 deg
        • Caster: +2.2 to +2.5 deg
        • Toe: +.07 to +.10 per side (not to exceed +.20 combined)
      • CoachBuilder:
        • Camber: -.1 deg
        • Caster: +3.5 deg
        • Toe: +.04 to +.05 deg
  • 3A-2: Coachbuilder Power Steering Rack Poly Bushing Kit: $70
    • Coachbuilder power steering rack poly bushing kit Hyperlink
• 3B: SUSPENSION – FRONT
  • 3B-1: Perry Parts Front Bump Stops (AB3R) (34”): $180 (2x$90)
    • Perry Parts Front Bump Stops Hyperlink
  • 3B-2: Fox Performance Elite 2.5 Coil-Over Reservoir – 883-06-187 (2" - 3" lift): $2,300
    • Performance Elite 2.5 Coil-Over Reservoir Shocks Hyperlink
  • 3B-3: CoachBuilder Strut / Coilover Shim (.50" Lift) - $62.10 (3x $20.70)
    • CoachBuilder Strut / Coil-Over Shim (.50”) Hyperlink
      • NOTE: 2 (driver side front - left) / 1 (passenger - front - right)
  • 3B-4: Coachbuilder Strut / Coilover Shim Bolt Kit: $12
    • CoachBuilder Strut / CoilOver Shim Bolt Kit Hyperlink
  • 3B-5: JBA HD HC Upper Control Arms (UCA) - 1 to 3.5” Lift: $660
    • JBA HD HC Upper Control Arms Hyperlink
• 3C: SUSPENSION (REAR)
  • 3C-1: Perry Parts Rear Bump Stops (AB3R) (Regular): $125
    • Perry Parts Rear Bump Stops Hyperlink
  • 3C-2: Coachbuilder Polyurethane Bushing Kit (Leaf Spring Eyelets): $50
    • Coachbuilder Polyurethane Bushing kit (Leaf Spring Eyelet ) Hyperlink
  • 3C-3: Fox Performance Elite 2.5 Reservoir – Rear (0" - 1.5" lift) 883-26-117: $1,600
    • Performance Elite Series 2.5 Reservoir Shock Hyperlink
  • 8C-4: CoachBuilder +3 Shackle Kit (+ 1.75" lift): $337
    • CoachBuilder +3" Shackle Kit Hyperlink
      • NOTE: CoachBuilder Polyurethane spring eye bushings included
      • NOTE: CoachBuilder Carrier bearing drop kit included
• 3E: BRAKES
  • 3E-1: CoachBuilder Rear Brake / ABS Relocation Kit: $26
    • CoachBuilder Rear Brake / ABS Relocation Kit Hyperlink

STAGE 4: DRIVETRAIN

• 4A: CoachBuilder Carrier Bearing Drop Kit: $0
  • Coachbuilder Carrier Bearing Drop Kit Hyperlink
    • NOTE: Included with CoachBuilder +3 Shackle Kit (1.75” lift)

STAGE 5: WHEELS & TIRES

• 5A-1: ICON Recon SLX Charcoal (3617855557CH): $530 (5x$106)
  • Recon SLX / Charcoal - Icon Alloys - Icon Vehicle Dynamics Hyperlink
    • Note: 17" x 8.5" / +25mm Offset / 5.75" Backspace
• 5A-2: Maxxis Razr AT LT295/70/17 Tires (AT811): $1325 ($265 x5)
  • Maxxis Razr AT-811 All Terrain Tire Hyperlink
• 5A-3: Gorilla Spline Drive Size 6 Key 13/16 And 7/8" (1378SD-KEY) - $6.30
  • Gorilla Spline Drive Size 6 Key 13/16 And 7/8 Hyperlink
• 5A-4: Gorilla Small Diameter Spline Duplex ET Lug Nuts - 13/16" & 7/8" - 14x1.50mm (K5ES-14150BGR)
  • Gorilla Small Diameter Spline Duplex E-T Lug Nuts Hyperlink
• 5A-5: Alignment
  • Note: Required post Stage 1-3

STAGE 6: EXTERIOR

• 6A: ARK - TriXpoly Splash Guards & Mudflap Micros: $216
  • TriXpoly Splash Guards & Mudflap Hyperlink
• 6B: RCI Arapaho Front Bumper: $1450 w/out lights + $458 (shipping & tax)
  • RCI Arapaho Front Bumper Hyperlink
    • No Hoop
    • 30” Light Bar: +$480, Fog Lights: +$232
    • Weight 115 lbs
• 6C: RCI Aluminum (Raw) Engine Skid Plate: $354 + (shipping 25+tax 28)
  • RCI Metal Works Engine Skid Plate Hyperlink
    • Weight 45 lbs
• 6D: White Knuckle Rock Sliders: $1050
  • White Knuckle Toyota Tundra Rock Sliders Hyperlink
    • Weight: 90 lbs
• 6E: Fab Fours Vengeance (Sensor) TT14-E2852-1 Rear Bumper: $1569
  • Fab Fours Vengeance Rear Bumper Hyperlink
    • Weight: 65 lbs

STAGE 7: INTERIOR

• 7A: ESP Under Seat Long Box Lockable Storage: $841
  • ESP Under Seat Long Box Lockable Storage Hyperlink
    • Weight: 45 lbs

 

Hi, I stumbled across this while looking at 17" rims and Maxxis Razrs... because I want to put 37s on mine!

I have fat (>13") heavy (>80 lb) 35s on my rig (325/65r18), 1.5" front lift (IM FCP), +25 18x9, Boise Spring 4 leaf add on, no UCAs, no regear, big assed camper and load. I also live at 7k ft, so the engine is relatively anemic compared to sea level.

None of the "terrible" things you mention regarding larger tires align with my experience. Tundras look way better with big tires, they are better offroad, and they are fine on road too. You'll lose a little acceleration, but you'll forget about that soon enough. It's a big V8 after all! No weird shifting, no MPG loss, at least with 2.5 gen. Firmer ride, but handles better too.

Oddly before the camper my MPGs were no worse than with the stock Bridgestones, and better at low speed. Long highway trips >17 mpg, and now a little under 15 with the camper. Part of that is luck, because I got tires with low rolling resistance. ATs vary a lot, and they aren't tested for MPG, so it's hard to tell. Though I think as a best guess, go with the higher speed ratings as a proxy.

Also... get a throttle controller! This is absolutely necessary IMO. The 2.5 gens have different computer settings... very anemic "learned" throttle mapping if you drive fairly sedately. It causes the engine to feel like a 4 cyl... 1/2 the throttle gives you maybe 1/4 of the engine. I got a HikeIt X5, cheap and works fine.

Keep your lift <2" and you can use your stock UCAs. When aligning, move the wheels as far forward in the wells as possible. I went into detail on that somewhere in this forum. Space your bumper forward. No BMC needed unless you get 37s, and 1.5" lift will still be fine. Excessive lift is the biggest stress on an IFS front end.

I'd avoid shackles for lift. Unless you extend the bumpstops, they'll over-stress your springs when you bottom out.

Where the hell did you get those rims so cheap?

Happy to discuss more, if you wish.