Powertrax GripPro LSD vs. Speedmaster LSD

Man. That's a tough call. My first thought was to say "Save more money and regear since you'll already be paying for the install labor." Then I realized you're only tearing into the rear if you add the LSD. Big difference in dollars to add gears, as well as heavier labor costs to do the front. Gears are fucking awesome, but budgets are a real factor... If you can come up with a feasible way to swing it, do it. After having 5.29's with only 34" tires, I'd recommend it for anyone with tires that are larger or heavier than stock... I think that the added rotating mass has as much effect on performance (loss) as the added leverage from the increased diameter. I noticed that going to a heavy LT tire took a lot of pep out of my truck, even at stock diameter...

 

Those of you with it installed, does the Powertrax GripPro have a break in period that it should be babied for and followed up by a fluid change? I’d look at the install instructions but I’ve already handed it off to the installer. Thanks in advance.

 

I don't recall specifically, however I just went in line with Nitro's break in standards for the gears and its been fine. (Heat cycles, 500 miles I think, fresh fluid).

 

No issues here with my Powertrax. Passenger slid in like a hotdog down a hallway and the driver side needed a little deadblow attention until I could get the bearing nuts started. Pulled right in, torqued up, and running silently.

 

My installer did a short break in (100 miles or less) and change the oil. Not required. I don't get all the clicking and popping other have reported.

 

I don't think so, though I did gears at the same time. Considering the Powertrax has it's own gears and contact points it wouldn't hurt to be gentle for 50-100 miles.

I also recently switched to the Valvoline gear oil per this threads recommendations: https://www.tundras.com/threads/gea...c-helix-torsen-grip-pro-differentials.101244/ I've been noticing lackadaisical slip limiting which I fully attribute after talking to people to be a result of the Amsoil Severe Gear being too slippery. So I would suggest you do indeed follow their oil recommendations, which I did not

 

Thanks for the replies. At a minimum I’ll take it easy for a bit, and maybe change the fluid earlier than I otherwise would. I’m really looking forward to having this diff. The open diff definitely takes a lot of fun out of having the blower on the street when I can basically count on a lame 1 wheel peel every time I give it any throttle at all in 2wd. I wanna be able to get a little sideways sometimes! I have the solid offroad mounts going on too at the same time.

 

I'm planning to do a changeout after 500 or so miles on mine. Kept the same gears, but new bearings/etc. Cheap insurance for a new diff IMO.

 

What weight do you run in winter?

I'll prob run this stuff after a break in cycle. https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil

 

Amsoil has some limited slip additive I saw, so that could be worth a shot as well. I was considering that option but it was hard to determine what the additive would actually do, and easier in my case to just run a different manufacturer for the rear.

 

How cold does it get where you live? MD here and while it doesn't get crazy cold, we frequently see the high teens low 20s in the winter. I've swapped gear oil twice since install (3 years) through our version of bad winters with no signs of degradation or unusual wear with nonsynthetic in the rear and no hard shifts. I change it once a year since I tow so much.

 

Oh hell lol. Disregard. It hits 32 here and I immediately book a flight to Puerto Rico. You can have that -40 shit

 

You're a brave soul.

 

Had my Powertrax installed for going on 2 yrs. Filled up with Amsoil Severe Gear 75w90 and it's still in there. No issues and all smiles since install

 

It's not, but you're not supposed to run synthetic either my point was you might be able to tweak the synthetic to do what you want, but the amsoil limited slip additive wasn't particularly clear on if it'd make the powertrax more aggressive or not.

And to be clear, I'm not saying the powertrax stopped working or had issues with amsoil. It just seems to need more throttle than I'd like to really kick in, and hopefully that's just a gear oil thing and trying to handle the torque from 5.29s and the blower.

 

LS additives will make the Powertrax work LESS, the helical gears internally need some friction to properly torque bias. Synthetic with LS additives will "work" just fine with it, the LS action will just be loose or reduced.

I'm using Mobilube currently and I can actually feel the LS working on uneven or sections of gravel/dust on pavement.

 

I just did a Truetrak in my Jeep and the manual specifically says not to use synthetic. They recommended Lucas 75w90. I appreciate that since it’s cheap and available everywhere. The Truetrak is a helical gear style as well.

 

Has anyone put some miles on the speedmaster yet?

 

300 miles

got a little off-road with it. Worked great. Got 2 wheel peelage and way more traction. No 4x4 needed yet

 

Myself and @carn_dogg will be installing the speedmaster.
Seems the carrier splines may have tight tolerances and need a bit of finese getting the axle splines in.

 

Cool deal!

 

How much is everyone paying for install of one of these?

 

I’m planning to take a weekend and do it for the price of 1-2 terrific lady days. Aka dad watches the kids while mom gets some time to herself.

 

1500 all parts supplied

 

That a front and rear statement with gears and lsd?

 

Masters and gears front and rear and rear lsd

 

Not too bad at all

masters 900 f and r
LSD 518 for speed master for BF sale
Gears 150 f and r for motive
1600 parts and 1500 labor.

 

Think I paid $1,600 for labor and oil. I supplied gears, master kits, and LSD.

 

$500 for rear gear and powertrax install, but that's with me removing/installing the center section from the axle.