Lower ball joints

Hello, a new guy here.
I'm considering replacing the lower ball joints in my 110,400-mile, one-owner, '04 Tundra.
The question is, should I also replace the uppers or anything else while doing so?
This is a preemptive thing. I have had no problems yet.

 

Uppers should be fine at that mileage since the majority of the stress is on the lower ball joints. I still have my uppers and I’m over 250k miles now.

Do check your LCAs to make sure there are no tears in the bushings leading to play. Also do the typically wheel check test for any play to see if tie rods are good.

 

Replace the mounting bolts also. Heed the torque specs for the bolts. This is not an area to ugga-dugga shit.

By 110k, if V8, the timing belt/water pump/tensioner/pulleys should be done by now, at least once within the last 10 years, always replace using the Aisin brand kit part number ending in “021”. Don’t be a dumbass, this is not optional. It needs to be done, even if old, even if not enough miles. Belt is rubber, just like tires, I sure as hell wouldn’t trust 10-15 year old tires at hwy speeds. That belt snaps at ant noteworthy RPM and your engine is likely fucked.

You should consider replacing the radiator, Denso brand, order from Rock Auto or Summit racing to ensure it’s authentic (avoid scAmazon, fleaBay) and it arrives intact, undamaged.

Carefully inspect the valve covers for leaks, they’re usually leaking by now. Ideally, I’d you want your repair to last more than 3-4 years, use OEM gaskets, got all the part numbers you need and process required, just ask. Only other brand I’d trust is FelPro, but would urge you to use OEM, and fresh FIPG. Make sure to replace the bolts with the built in gasket-washers. Note the bolts snap easily if over tightened and they like to loosen up, causing leaks.

 

Shifty, do you have the OEM bolt numbers for the lower ball joints?

 

I don’t but there’s a series of sticky threads at the top of this forum with the most critical info people need to know (along with two or three inspirational/social threads) and one is dedicated to LBJs and their bolts: https://www.tundras.com/threads/lower-ball-joints-part-numbers.97100/

 

OP,

I just finished my install last week. Let me link you the video I went by......which worked fine EXCEPT I screwed up a tie rod's threads using the puller suggested in the video when it slipped off. I got the OTC kit from the video and used another puller. It damaged the tie rod bushings but I replaced one by myself. Taking it to the shop anyway so they can get the other on. The puller suggested for the LBJ itself worked fine (the big one).

If using hand tools I hope you have a serious breaker bar! Removing the 4 bolts which attach the body of the LBJ to the knuckle, my 1/2 inch drive, 15 inch long breaker bar WITH 3 foot pipe cheater bar slipped on was flexing! BOOM! It'd break free. Not all were as tight as some but whoa!

I had to work on the grass using 2.5 ton floor jacks (which don't roll well on grass for some reason LOL) and lots of wood crib blocks. I got it though with advice from here and help from my wife. Wear safety glasses as rust will find your eyes whenever you are under something.

I bought my LBJ's from Ourisman Toyota of Richmond, VA, about $135 per LBJ. Normal shipping is crazy fast, no reason to pay for expedited.

The video is Post #8. Good luck!

Something a local mechanic said...."pressing out the ball joints." | Toyota Tundra Forum

I would suggest some small cleaning brushes to get the rust out of the bolt holes as much as you can. The two through-and-through holes I cleaned with a .45 caliber pull through bore brush.

 

If you have rust, or even if not, I'd recommend spraying everything with PB blaster or WD40 for days before, will make things easier.

I'd check the CV axles as well (if 4wd) the stock ones are pretty bulletproof, so unless they have a ton of play and very badly torn boots, I'd keep them. If your Upper BJ has a torn boot, or play, then I'd replace it, but if not then don't worry about it.

I used the TRQ video and a few others as my replacement snowballed, but it really isn't difficult. Best of luck!

 

Thanks to everyone!!!

 

Good luck, keep us posted.

Do you have a garage you can do this work in?

 

Yes, I have a garage but not heated, so I may wait until spring. It's 14 degrees right now!

 

Ours isn't heated either but we have a small heater we can put on the top of a tank and light it. Puts out a great deal of heat. My garage though is full of all my mowing equipment so no room for the truck.

You aren't going to park it in the grass are you?