What home improvement work did you do today?

That's what i was thinking.
I don't see those around here, just the big torsion spring above the header.

I've been in a shop when one of those let loose on a 14' door. Sounded like a 12ga.

 

It'll fill with water just from condensation.

If it was my house, and there are no splices or damage to the jacket underground I'd just leave it. But i suppose if you wanted to fix it, at least replaced the underground section with UF and put a weatherproof junction box at the base of the post and splice there to the romex just above ground.

If the romex will move in the pipe, you could pull it out and pull in THWN wire and you'd only have to dig up the ends to add the junction boxes. Dawn soap makes good lube.

 

This is the only type of door I’ve ever seen. This and screw-drive. I mean, I’ve seen others on TV and in videos, but this style of garage door setup with extension springs is absurdly common in the south/southeastern US.

 

What do you got against garage doors, huh?

 

Pixel, bonus they're on sale right now.

 

Yeah, I’d skip also. But if I had no choice, I’d definitely rely on Samsung over Google any day.

 

The customization losses haven't happened on Android for a long time. The Pixel is just basically plain jane Android, Samsung adds their flavor on top of it.

 

Former (unless the next gig lands me back in it) decades long technologist here.

Apple’s ecosystem is a no-brainer. But in my dealings with Android, from embedded devices to tablets to phones and so on, Samsung’s Galaxy world of devices exceeds anything Google can directly make to the point Google (early on, maybe now) had Samsung manufacturing devices for them. You can’t go wrong with anything in the Galaxy realm. People geek out on the flexibility of Android devices, I get it. But I honestly hate how convoluted Android devices tend to be, and how OS-version-limited they seem to be to me. That’s oversimplifying it to a grandiose degree but … yeah.

tl;dr - stick with Samsung/Galaxy on Android phones. LG for smart TVs and their appliances are pretty solid. Apple on phones if you don’t want headaches. And if you just get a MacBook for any reason, avoid the touchbar like the plague if you can, it was a colossal fucking failure which Apple has failed to address with their customers.

 

Totally get it. Sorry if I seemed short - been a hell of a week so far and was coming off of a 22-hour day of work and travel.

Primary concerns are

1. Wood isn’t watertight, and it inherently contains moisture
2. The blue plastic boxes aren’t sealed in any way, allowing moisture to get into that space and into your wiring
3. Standard romex will deteriorate quickly with any exposure, and the paper core will wick moisture through the jacket and down the length.
4. Wires should have some air around them (direct burial rated wire when in the ground being an obvious exception). Conduit fill volume is 40% Max of the total cross section so that heat can dissipate.

What I would consider is to split the post lengthwise diagonally (hides the seam when you glue it back together).
Route out a channel down the center to run the conduit - you can even oversize so long as the strength is still there. Mount a sealed box near the bottom that has threaded connection and line that up with the centered channel so that you can put a threaded vertical conduit up from your underground that you can spin onto it. That will also serve as a pull box and junction point. Then use another sealed box where you want the outlet (or skip the bottom one and run the conduit longer to hit your outlet box). Finally, from the outlet box up to the camera I’d also run it in conduit but that right angle corner will be a little tricky to work out… maybe run some direct-bury rated stuff with seal-tight connectors on the boxes, but still keep it in an open channel down the middle that leaves extra room for heat dissipation. Make your camera mount also a sealed box.

this way, when you attached the gasketed face of the outlet box cover and camera cover to them, your splices are contained in a “sealed” environment instead of the remodel box that lets moisture work into the whole thing. We know that stuff isn’t perfectly sealed but it’s a lot better than the blue box and regular romex

another thought - build the frame out of hollow tube steel and route the wiring inside that (more like a traditional lamp post). Skin the metal post with mitered wood pieces.
Carefully cut the locations of the outlet and camera box and weld in the front face of a box for those that extends out to be flush with your finished wood skin and you’ll have a nice finished product. If the wood ever fails, you can easily just rollover the skin. That post itself will last forever!

Good luck

 

You’re talking about the long springs on either side, not a center torsion bar setup, right?

 

helps if I finish catching up before I respond.

 

It's an older and simpler design compared to the torsion murder springs. Also used on the old single-panel carriage doors.
I've got the same setup in my garage.

 

Absolutely none taken at all,shit the way I see it is,if I'm willing to float out pictures of my personal life on the Blabernet for all to see then I'm also able to accept comments and criticism as well.

Your information makes 100% sense and in this case it's free knowledge for me to run with and I completely appreciate it.
The whole concept of the condensation how the water is created makes sense to me and actually answered questions that I thought of from years back,I had always wondered how water got into conduit that was completely sealed. Well now I know!
Pretty damn cool!

I was going to boar out the post but my concern was the bit drifting after several feet and concerned about structural rigidity. So I took the easy way by routing and making an inlay.
I'm going to pull the post out and re do it,and do it properly for a couple of reasons,I don't leave loose ends when knowing that I'm more than capable to correct it.
1. It'll be done right and I really don't mind the work,it's kinda rewarding to me and secondly Who's to say I'll be around in a few years or even be able to re do it when it fails, because it wasn't done right the first time, I don't want that to be a burden for the Misses.

Thanks again for your honesty and knowledge, this site has been very rewarding to me and I enjoy coming on and reading about just about everything under the sun,this site has more to offer than just truck stuff and I'm glad I stumbled onto it!
Oh BTW it's Friday so you can get ready to kick back and chill the work week is done

Bob

 

Ohhhhh.....I see what you are saying.

Here (maybe a West coast kinda thing?) we usually have springs that go over a bar that spans the width of the door.
I've heard it's kinda scary to tension the springs. Either use 2 pegs and twist it, or I've seen commercials of some companies have a drill powered thing that spins the springs.

Edit: I see I'm late to the party and you guys already talked through it.

 

If you split the post lengthwise and then router the center of it hollow and then glue it back together with good urethane glue and lots of clamps, that would prevent the issue of a wandering drill bit. The transition from the underground conduit could still be tricky and I’m not sure how you are anchoring the post itself though…

when we run underground commercially, like Beau mentioned, we have a splice/junction box on either end and run the conduit to the box. At a light post, that conduit will come up through a concrete base and the light post is set over the box and anchored down to the concrete. Or the conduit will come up alongside the post and be surface routed up the face.

 

Installed an

$89 EZ GENERATOR SWITCH - The Original, Patented, UL/CSA Approved Manual Transfer Switch

EZ Generator Switch so I can run my furnace with my generator in case I lose power for nearly 7 days and it's in the 20s. Again.

 

Hung up some stained glass that my wife and daughter have made recently

 

Wrapping up this master bath on Tuesday when the shower glass gets installed.

Old bath had a 36” single vanity with toilet next to it, followed by a large tub.
Tub got trashed, toilet moved to old shower location. Double bowl 72” vanity added, 60”x42” shower pan plus bench.

Big 24”x 48” tiles were used. Niche is all mitered and grain matched where possible. Niche pic was in progress when grooves were cut for floating mitered tile shelf, 4 25 cent biscuits and silicone hold shelf in place.

 

That's beautiful! I love those colors. I'd recommend changing those plugs and switches to gray. Might add to the fung shoeey.

 

Leaves, and more leaves! Then went on the roof to run the drill powered brush through my dryer vent tube as the wife has been complaining that the dryer is taking longer than usual. Bit of a pita as the washer/dryer are on the second floor.

 

Looks fantastic, wish I had that kind of skill.