New member 2000 tundra

Hello, just purchased a 2000 Tundra with 154,000 miles and minor surface rust on frame. What is best process/product to treat frame with to prevent/limit further rust?

 

Surface rust is somewhat 'normal'. To me if you Only live/drive in a Non-road salt area then just periodic washing including the underbelly is sufficient - otherwise if salted then maybe something to clean & coat it with may be a better idea. Luck and enjoy.

 

Can't go wrong with the good ol PB Blaster

 

Welcome from LA (Lower Alabama)!

 

Welcome from NY.

 

I just recently picked up a 2001 from the original owner, and I have the same issue with some surface rust on the frame. After a deep dive looking at fluid film/PB Blaster, etc vs. rustoleum/ por15... I'm going with knock off the loose stuff and use the Rustoleom Rusty metal Primer and a Rustoleom Black enamel top coat. I think the lanolin (fluid film) are great on new surfaces and would work better in some ways - for what I need the primer-paint combo will work better.

 

Welcome from North Florida!

there are several options from reading on this forum, but I do not know specifically. PB as mentioned and the group seems to like something called liquid something or other...

Good luck!

 

Liqui moly. That's the real good stuff

 

I made this thread a couple weeks ago that has a ton of info/products: Rust Treatment & Undercoating In Depth | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

In short, cosmoline based products are the most durable/longest lasting but you have to be careful about overspray, they're more expensive, supposed to avoid rubber parts, and dry hard so may clog drain holes. Some examples of cosmoline based products are cosmoline rp-423 and CRC Marine Corrosion inhibitor. PB Surface Shield is lanolin based. The two other most popular lanolin based products are Fluid Film and Wool Wax. Lanolin based products are nice in that they don't ever fully dry, so they continually creep into nooks and crannies, self heal if rock chips etc. happen, and they're cheaper. Downside is they wash off easier and require annual/bi annual reapplications.

For treatment of rust, there are a variety of products. The best seem to contain phosphoric acid in varying concentrations. Phosphoric acid converts rust to iron phosphate, a black stable/inert compound that can be painted/coated over.

For painting over converted, any auto enamel/chassis paint should work, but the best seem to be MCU paints or "moisture cure urethanes".

Your level of rust/amount of time you want to spend on the project will dictate which route is "best" for your situation.

Both cosmoline and lanolin products claim they can be sprayed directly over existing rust and will inhibit it from spreading. There's probably some truth to that, but I'd recommend at least knocking off big rust with a flathead screwdriver or other scraper, and then wire wheeling/wire brushing other surface rust, followed by a few rounds of rust converter before either painting over it or going straight to an undercoating product.

Fluidfilm/Woolwax/PB Surface Shield are nice in that you could skip doing anything and just spray them on and they should do a fairly good job of stopping future rust. Lanolin based products are hydrophobic and will push out existing moisture which is also nice.

I used a combination of cosmoline and woolwax on my truck after doing a full rust treatment/mcu paint job. I'll see how it holds up over time but so far so good!