What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Sweet TRD catback
Only the coolest of the cool kids have those on their 1GT.

 

I agree. Body colored bumpers are far better than flat black and chrome

 

what load range are the 275’s? Considering moving to these from my 265/70’s after I figure out my new suspension for the front. Those look awesome

 

E. In fact, I had a hard time finding any Mickeys in anything except E-rated.

And while I'd definitely prefer C over E in my case, given what I use the truck for 90% of the time, I'll take the little added rigidity and stiffness on bumps over the drastic noise reduction. I'd totally zoned out on how noisy the Wildpeaks were. When I put the Mickeys back on, it was like I was running Michelins or something, in comparison. I still hear noise ramping up at highway speeds, but marked improvement.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-happened-to-6-ply-load-range-c-tires.90467/

 

New Powerstop calipers.
Been dealing with the highway speed wheel shake and vibration for a few months and assumed it was old shocks leading to uneven wear on my tires. It recently got real bad, so I took a few hours one Sunday to get my wheels rotated around and at least buy some time to replace shocks. In doing so, I noticed that my passenger front wheel was not spinning in the air, leading me down the path of a stuck caliper. Following my mantra of "why just replace when you can upgrade!", even if that upgrade is mostly shiny red powdercoating, I went with the Powerstop calipers from Summit.

Went OEM for pads/rotors, and was also going to replace the hoses while I was in there and had to do a full bleed anyways. The hard line on the driver front was not cooperating though, and that wasn't really the project at-hand anyways, so maybe another day. I also discovered that one of the rear bleeder valves is also stuck, so ordered some speed bleeders for another go later.

Only really driven home from my buddy's place with some bedding in along the way so far, but it feels like the vibration is cleared up and the square wheel effect is gone. I call that a success.

 

Those look nice peeking out from behind the best OEM wheel Toyota ever made for our trucks! Great work!

 

Be sure you confirm there's no sticking still. Sometimes the brake hoses cause this.

Are you hanging on to your old calipers or do you ship back for core charge?

 

Anyone want floor mat clips? I bought these online, came in a 2 pack for under $5. Now I have three I don't need. Keeps the mat from sliding/bunching up under the brake pedal.

 

Thanks, i was planning on doing this, but I will sooner rather than later.
I still have the old calipers. The powerstop calipers don't have a core charge. Any suggestions on what to do with them? I was hoping there's a place out there that will pay for random calipers.

 

I've tossed around the idea of rebuilding a set of WL calipers for myself but unless the price was right (I'm a cheap ass) and shipping wasn't crazy I wouldn't mind to get my hands on a set to upgrade my brakes. I just worry about the calipers I get a hold of having issues the the bores and such.
Where are you located?

 

Tampa, FL
The calipers would have about 190k on them. The one that was stuck surprisingly did not have uneven wear from when I looked, but it was dark and I wanted to get my truck back together. I might be revisiting this issue in the future if it turns out the caliper wasn't the culprit.

 

I got ya, like I said if you decide you want to let them go and just get them out of your way just let me know and I may be interested.

 

Finally got another tire in. Think I’m gonna modify the center caps to be more flush. Kinda liking the no protruding cap look

 

What's the measurement on that hole?

 

4.25" or 108mm. Same as the Methods. Push through style cap.

 

scAmazon does have some options in 108mm, easy to return if you hate and/or it don't fit. You just need to check the specs pics to make sure they'll work in your application. (I'm sure there's probably more than just this one)

$47 Rheedal 4Pcs 109MM/4.29" Center Caps for OEM Can-Am Wheel Rim Replacement 705401318 Hub Cap,(Matt Black Out 109mm/4.29in, Inner 104.3mm/4.11in)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C853DS64/

​

 

Has to be push through design (from the back), not the pop in ones from the front.

 

I want these. But wish they didn’t say Method.

 

Ah, because it's bored to the hub, so there's nothing for the snap to grab onto on the back side. Got it.

There's some of those on there too but damn they're spendy. It looks like American Racing, ProComp, Pacer, RACELINE, and maybe Rhino all use that size. I see Gorilla has some shorty 3" tall push-thru in 4.25" also.

 

A wood router will mill plastic cleanly if you take light cuts and don't let the cutter get hot.

For this I would go with the trim router and a 1/4" 4 flute endmill.

 

My caps are metal. Gonna mock them up, then dremel or cutoff wheel. Then give the edge a slight lip to catch the groove behind the wheel.

 

3" tall is still way too tall. I need like 1.5" tall max.

 

Get these, paint matte or gloss black?

KitsPro 4.25 Wheel Center Caps for 46MM Height Truck Trailer Rim Push Through Replacement Hub Cap, Pack of 1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B3V28C51/

Oh, and what brand are those wheels, Eagle (589s) or?

 

What metal? Aluminum will mill nicely too!

 

That’s one thing I really liked about the scs wheels was the flush mount center cap

 

More the look I'm going for. Mine would look ridiculous if I didn't put the center cap behind the spacer. That eats up 1.25" of the cap sticking out further. Pain in the ass though because you have to remove the spacer to get the cap off to use the spare.

 

Current center cap depth




Centercap mounted behind spacer

 

Definitely steel. Wanna cut around the tape line closest to the outside of the cap. Lose about 3” of cap that way. About 1.5” left, just below the level of the lugs.

 

hell yeah, I bet with some pliers and some patience you can form that lip back into the bottom.