New wheel cylinder vs rebuild kit

Replaced the drums and linings today and noticed a leaking wheel cylinder. Seeing as rust is not a problem here in New Mexico, I'm thinking of just getting a cylinder rebuild kit from Toyota as opposed to a whole new cylinder. Opinions?

Is cylinder honing a must? I suspect zero water in the lines.

Thinking I can "sneak" the new cylinder in without having to do another entire brake job

Thanks

p.s. Thinking Toyota for the rebuild kit, but open to suggestions!

 

Cylinders can be relatively inexpensive and some may choose to just replace with a quality part and save the labor and somewhat uncertainty regarding the success of rebuilding. Looks like RA has them under $10 or $26 for advics and toys would be about $45 at serra when 25% off.

Rebuilding cylinders is fairly straightforward depending on if just need to replace the seals. Looks like the toy kit would be about $21 at serra when 25% off. For that price I'd likely consider the new advics, or just spend a few $ more for toys and rest easy another 250,000 miles.

Have rebuilt cylinders and usually inspect the cylinder for any pitting to decide if it can be rebuilt or water has ruined the interior seal surface beyond what a hone can restore with a nice crosshatching.

The toy front caliper kit seems to be a better ROI and already have one in the shop for $16 (both sides) that am planning to use for proactively rebuilding the 13WL calipers when have time since now at over 250,000 miles and calipers are spendy to replace compared to cylinders.

 

Stick with OEM and rebuild. Repack the adjuster while you’re in there, nothing compares to the OEM adjusters. The cylinders were made by Aisin I believe, possibly Advics, and can be bought from the part number at their website. The lookup for both brands is at the Aisin website.

 

Thanks for the advice. Bought Toyota rebuild kit. Probably paid too much...so be it. Sure they'll be quality at least.

 

Dumb question: what does one pack the adjuster with exactly?

 

Service info is in the FSM.

 

When doing wheel cylinders pressure test em in a vice (with wood slats) before installing em on the truck. Having to remount it really adds to the time it takes. You dont have to go crazy, 50psi will let you know. 30psi you have to listen for it.

 

IIIRC remove, unthread, clean, relube both ends before rethreading and where the adjuster mates to the pads with high temp grease.

 

I thought these jackasses greased their pads when i first saw em.

 

Nice!

thanks to all for the tips.

 

Yeah looks like aisin lists advics #wct068 as OE but RA only has one for $27 and they're unubtanum today at summit too.

 

They definitely seem to restock Denso, Aisin, Advice parts in spurts for our older trucks these days, eh?

 

I must have bought the nearly last two...

 

Rebuilt wheel cylinders today. I did not hone the cylinder - looked like a mirror in there. Didn't seem to need it. Hopefully I won't be sorry. Toyota wheel cylinder rebuild kit worked like a champ. Thanks again for the tips!

 

I'm always shocked by how many people buy entirely new parts when you can pretty easily rebuild and/or refurb quickly. Wheel cylinders, calipers, brake MC, starter, alternator, etc. Good on ya for saving some bones and keeping it factory.

 

Few people have the want to / know how to do rebuilds and kits to do so are harder to source than ever. Disposable society. When we switched to fuel injection as the main stream fuel delivery option, rebuilding things disappeared.

 

Don't get me started. Tired, tired, tired am I of disposable Chinese crap. Going to likely need power steering hoses. Maybe I can get a hydraulic shop to refurb them.

 

They'll do it, they just need either the old hoses, and/or they need to know the length, tubing OD/ID, thread/pitch and fitting angle at minimum.

For GenIII/LS swaps I've had a myrad of adapter hoses made by local shops to adapt the GM power steering pump to a donor car's power steering gearbox. Depending what materials were required, whether I had donor hoses to contribute, and if I needed both supply and return, cost me anywhere from $50-250. First time I had to have it done was on the '68 C10 I swapped the LS1/T56 out of a Firebird WS6 into. I'd need to dig into my thread on LS1tech to see if I listed what I paid to have the hoses made up, and I'm pretty sure I had them cobbled together. I feel like it was less than $175.

 

@bing5 - on my 2000 AC THE PS hard lines were in good shape but the rubber parts leaked. I bought a Gates pressure hose from RA and it looked just like the OEM hose. I also bought a Sunsong hard line and cannabilized the short sections of molded rubber hose from it. I purchased OEM for the hose that goes from the reservoir to the pump.

 

Did you notice an obvious failure point on one of the piston seals?

 

Found a place here in Albuquerque, NM that will rebuild them! Sweet. If it costs more, so be it.....

 

The leak was very tiny - I was not able to see it with the naked eye. Truck does have 260k on it. Likely would have seen it under a magnifying glass.

 

I likely could have gotten away without doing them, but seeing as I only do brakes about once a decade, figured I do them both while I had it torn apart for new drums and linings.