2011 Engine oil consumption

I have a 2011 5.7 liter with 144,xxx miles on the odometer. I purchased it a little over a year ago from a widow and have loved the truck. Outside of some cosmetic issues I have one concerning issue. I check my engine oil weekly to Bi-weekly and it is typically a quart low. I haven't found any spots under the truck or in the drive way. Is this just typical in your experience with these engines?

 

Not typical, mine doesn't lose any oil. Is it a quart low before the next oil change, or is it losing a quart weekly?

 

Not usually weekly. It's strange sometimes it's at level. So assuming it's not typical wear or a leak what would it be?

 

It’s being burned, or it’s leaking out. Or it’s leaking out, and then being burned, but you would be able to smell that.

 

I think its possibly the second one. There is a burnt rubber smell coming from the engine after a drive.

 

Not much of a smell to burning oil out the pipe, but definitely doesn’t smell like burning rubber

 

Mine leaks from the valve covers and burns off on the exhaust manifolds. Smell it occasionally. Uses a half litre/quart between oil changes. Do I risk snugging some valve cover bolts, and cause it to leak worse, or leave it alone?

 

Try sea foam in the oil 1 oz per quart of oil drive 300 mile then change it.

 

Possibly a good candidate for trying Valvoline Restore and Protect oil.

 

Any smoke coming from exhaust pipe after cold start? Or a hot start?

 

If the fuel efficiency is up to par then its not a worn ring or pistons but likely a leaking valve seal or two - even then that seems rather uncommon on the 3UR. The cats are so hot they obliterate the oil - there is no residue left or odor until they finally give up the ghost from this.

 

Read my question. It leaks from the valve covers guys ‍♂️

 

Gotcha - that is a lot for VCs - sometimes they're so loose - hand tightening can be had yet the gaskets are probably spongee.

 

You hijacked the op's thread and then get snippy about responses not related to your question. I think you should torque your valve cover bolts to 100ftlbs. That should seal it up.

 

^ Inch lbs.

 

Looks like you missed the sarcasm

 

What others have told you above seems like good ideas, specially since I haven't had my 2013 Tundra very long (less than two years). But I have noticed the following about the oil level of both the Tundra (5.7L engine):

a. The only way to tell for certain if the oil level is correct is with the truck parked completely level (not uphill or downhill, nor leaning to one side or the other). Turn the engine off, and either remove the oil stick or the oil filler cap, and let it rest for ten minutes or more to allow all the oil to drain down into the pan. Ten minutes later check the oil level and see what the stick shows. Warning: Whatever you do, don't forget to reinstall the oil filler cap (or oil level stick)

b. Watch some of the videos YouTube by The Car Guy and others about oil consumption, and what some of them do to correct it. In some of the videos the hosts have found out easy fixes, including the use of an oil cleaner such as Sea Foam and other brands, prior to changing the oil and filter, while others have figured that replacing the oil and filter every 5,000 miles/6 months takes care of the problem.

c. I live in the interior of Alaska where it gets extremely cold. During the winter months cars and trucks go through long hours of idling, so more than likely some of the cylinder lubrication is washed down by unburned gasoline. This is not an abnormal condition; it happens in places where extremely cold starts are the norm. For that reason I replace the oil/filter at the beginning of winter (October to mid November for me), and then by April the next year. In this case, April and then October or so (2 times per year).

d. If you aren't careful when checking the oil level ("a" on my list above), it is quite possible to overfill the engine with oil. Also, on a cold engine the oil level should be somewhere below the top mark.

 

Same as above. Make sure you’re doing basics correct. Run it, park it level and wait 5 min before checking dipstick. Do this every time to be consistent.

Check front seals (around harmonic balancer/lower front cover), rear main (between motor/transmission) and cam towers (just above exhaust manifolds).

Outside of those, these things really aren't leakers. Cam towers are the most common but even then you wouldn't be losing a quart a week.

Should be pretty easy to find if it leaks that much.

Pop the oil fill cap off while it’s running. Should feel a slight vacuum on the fill neck.

If it’s pushing air out, no bueno and pretty tell tale sign you’re burning oil. (Possibility of a PCV issue but likely a piston ring issue if so).

 

During maintenance of the truck,,how many times have you changed the PCV valve? Might try that, if you haven't changed it out. The sea foam treatment in the oil before changing it out
and then do a pcv valve replacement.There should be a slight vacuum in the crankcase to help seal the oil control ring and compression rings on the pistons. No vacuum and that will
enable blow by gases to escape along with oil usage going up. PCV valve helps to control crankcase pressures.