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Slippage"

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Ddoggtoyo, Aug 13, 2024.

  1. Aug 13, 2024 at 2:07 PM
    #1
    Ddoggtoyo

    Ddoggtoyo [OP] New Member

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    Starting recently on 2000 toyota tundra manual.. in all gears if I accelerate to aggressively It pushes the rpms way up about 4k too much for the truck to catch up to, unless I let off and let them evenly accelerate together. It started about a month ago here and there with no engine light, but the last couple days it's happening more and sooner into the drive. Today the engine light just came on.. any ideas?? Thank you
     
  2. Aug 13, 2024 at 2:10 PM
    #2
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Michelob Ultra coinesour

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    Sounds like your clutch is worn out. How many miles are on it? Have you pulled codes for the CE light yet?
     
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  3. Aug 13, 2024 at 2:20 PM
    #3
    KNABORES

    KNABORES Sarcasm incoming

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    I second the clutch suggestion. If it's hydraulic, then maybe the fluid could also be a problem in the master or slave cylinder. Or failure of one of those components. Or a bad pressure plate. Needs tearing down to diagnose and I would just replace all the components including the throwout bearing, I mean, it's 25 years old now.
     
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  4. Aug 13, 2024 at 2:22 PM
    #4
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Michelob Ultra coinesour

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    Agreed. Don't forget to get your flywheel resurfaced as well.
     
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  5. Aug 13, 2024 at 5:59 PM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` I'm having daydreams about night things

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    Clutch.
     
  6. Aug 13, 2024 at 6:01 PM
    #6
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty The Desert rat, SSEM #5/25, 6 lug enthusiast

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  7. Aug 13, 2024 at 6:11 PM
    #7
    shifty`

    shifty` I'm having daydreams about night things

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    Don’t you dare talk about my cornhole like that.
     
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  8. Aug 14, 2024 at 5:17 AM
    #8
    Ddoggtoyo

    Ddoggtoyo [OP] New Member

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    Only an evap code p0441. I'm worried because the clutch master rod was really loose so I'd have to push to the floor to shift with only the couple inches at the floor was where the clutch was engaging. Also it didn't have the pin in to hold the bolt in place so it had started locking up on me when the clutch pedal bounced back all the way. So about a month ago I figured it out and took the master cylinder arm/rod off and tightened the lock bolts closer down and I got the clutch acting right and tight and bought a pin to hold it there. But I'm wondering if it was to tight and if the clutch was always partly engaged and wore something out.. I did mark it before doing it, so yesterday I loosened it back towards where it was. I had a 30 mile trip this morning and seems much better, but it still did it just a little bit mainly in 4th gear. Thank you all for the feedback!
     
  9. Aug 14, 2024 at 5:24 AM
    #9
    Ddoggtoyo

    Ddoggtoyo [OP] New Member

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    205k miles now.. it's a meaningful truck to me so I'm committed to keep it running. I'm just becoming part of this forum I've been reading since the 2 years I've owned the truck but finally signed up to ask about this
     
  10. Aug 14, 2024 at 5:25 AM
    #10
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Michelob Ultra coinesour

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    My P0441 code ended up just being the gas cap. I'd look at that and check back with us if it comes on again. I'm not familiar with master cylinder clutches, but engagement like that usually means that pressure plate is toast. I'd get a new clutch/pressure plate, throw out bearing, and get that flywheel resurfaced.
     
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  11. Aug 14, 2024 at 8:34 AM
    #11
    Bought2Pull

    Bought2Pull New Member

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    Oh geeze. Sounds like even manuals are complicated now.
     
  12. Aug 14, 2024 at 8:38 AM
    #12
    badass03taco

    badass03taco New Member

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    The reason the "arm" seemed too short was because the clutch is worn out, and the clutch master cylinder piston is pushed way out to try to disengage the clutch. This means the fluid in your reservoir is likely also very low because the fluid is being displaced by the piston being pushed so far out. You can replace the clutch, throw out bearing, pressure plate, and flywheel (or have it resurfaced) and push the clutch master cylinder piston back out to the beginning of its throw and have a perfect clutch pedal again. You will most likely need to un-do the rod adjustments you did recently as well.
     
  13. Oct 27, 2024 at 10:42 AM
    #13
    Ddoggtoyo

    Ddoggtoyo [OP] New Member

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    To report on this slippage issue. "maybe" the compression plate still has a problem because since the work done, the new master cylinder which returned the clutch pedal to normal but as the time about 5k miles has gone there's some space in the pedal that seems it's "sinking" to where I have to adjust it again to return it back to normal. The slippage has been fixed Thankfully it was just a clutch hose they said and no similar symptoms since then
     

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