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Unknown HVAC valve/door?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by mchenry2000, Oct 24, 2024.

  1. Oct 24, 2024 at 2:22 PM
    #1
    mchenry2000

    mchenry2000 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Tyle
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    2004 Tundra SR5 DC 4WD
    OME 2886X Springs on Bilstien 5100s Rear Bilstien 5100s 33's TRD Grille ARB Snorkel Auxbeam 8 gang switch Rear Diff Breather Extension Soft Topper 9500lb Hidden Winch F-ER Secondary Battery Tray
    Good Afternoon Everyone,

    This is my first post and I have searched here and the Facebook group yet cannot find anything about this. Can someone tell me what to do with this situation?

    2004 Tundra DC SR5, currently broke the black plastic tab shown in the photo below. This is located on the passenger side near the center console. It was connected to a hole just wide enough for it to fit in and turn when the heat/cool knob is turned. I cannot move the remaining portion as it is broken off inside.
    What I think the best method to fix this would be heating up some all thread and sticking it into the hole, hoping it catches and molds to it. The below diagram would have the white piece that is left on the cable in between 2 washers and nuts. Anyone have any experience or a better way to do this? I cannot find the part as well for it.
    I believe it has to do with using the condenser or the heater for air. I could be wrong but I don't think this is the blend door either. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I am losing my mind over this.






    IMG_2391.jpglp_image.jpg
     
  2. Oct 24, 2024 at 2:25 PM
    #2
    shifty`

    shifty` I'm having daydreams about night things

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    (see signature for truck info)
    Hey Tyler, welcome to the forum. Help me visualize, only because the words aren't drawing a pic in my brain. Is that end supposed to be attached to the hole as I'm showing here? Just trying to figure out what snapped off, if it needs to pivot, etc. I'm not near my truck for another hour or two so I can't take a peak at it. I also have an AC, which may be slightly diff't from your DC.

    upload_2024-10-24_17-25-32.png
     
  3. Oct 24, 2024 at 2:36 PM
    #3
    shifty`

    shifty` I'm having daydreams about night things

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
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    (see signature for truck info)
    PS - see if you can flip thru the exploded diagrams in these sections for a 2004 DC like yours, see if you can find the part that's related. This is using a random 2004 DC VIN that I found online.

    87-12 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - HEATER UNIT & BLOWER
    87-14 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COOLER UNIT
    87-15 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - CONTROL & AIR DUCT
    87-16 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - WATER PIPING
    87-18 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COOLER PIPING
    87-19 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - COMPRESSOR

    Lastly, possibly in this link too.

    https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com/tundra/uck31/3822/body/5551/?frame_no=5TBET34184S449262

    Don't hesitate to click the 'view full size schema' link under the picture to see a larger image with the parts.
     
  4. Oct 24, 2024 at 3:36 PM
    #4
    mchenry2000

    mchenry2000 [OP] New Member

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    Tyle
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    2004 Tundra SR5 DC 4WD
    OME 2886X Springs on Bilstien 5100s Rear Bilstien 5100s 33's TRD Grille ARB Snorkel Auxbeam 8 gang switch Rear Diff Breather Extension Soft Topper 9500lb Hidden Winch F-ER Secondary Battery Tray
    Negative, that red circle is where it should be. A few inches from the firewall towards the back. See the photos I have below. I took apart another Tundra at a junkyard but it was all one piece with the heater box. Would take a ton of time to replace and a whole dash removal which I would not be looking forward to.

    The part is only labeled as Duct, Air that I saw where it would be. But even that wasn't the part, just knowing where the location was I would guess that's what it is.
    IMG_2455.jpg

    IMG_2456.jpg
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2024
  5. Oct 24, 2024 at 5:24 PM
    #5
    shifty`

    shifty` I'm having daydreams about night things

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    (see signature for truck info)
    If there’s remnant in the hole and it’s something that could be backed out, a left-thread extractor to back it out, or thread a fastener in with adhesive and let it harden, then back out.

    If it’s a fixed part (the end that broke off), I would try ABS slurry to weld it back together. If that fails, I’d be sanding it down and breaking out the JBWeld, I think maybe their Plastic Weld product would be best?
     
  6. Oct 25, 2024 at 3:22 AM
    #6
    mchenry2000

    mchenry2000 [OP] New Member

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    Tyle
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    2004 Tundra SR5 DC 4WD
    OME 2886X Springs on Bilstien 5100s Rear Bilstien 5100s 33's TRD Grille ARB Snorkel Auxbeam 8 gang switch Rear Diff Breather Extension Soft Topper 9500lb Hidden Winch F-ER Secondary Battery Tray
    I believe the piece turns something on the inside, such as a door to choose between the AC or heater. I’m willing to bet it’s one plastic mold so I can’t back it out and I need it to move. That’s what I would assume the all thread would be best for. Not sure if a self tapping screw would be best due to the part turning back and forth.
     
  7. Oct 25, 2024 at 6:04 AM
    #7
    shifty`

    shifty` I'm having daydreams about night things

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    If that's the case, best thing you could do is probably getting some threaded rod, and (at minimum) blue threadlocker. Pop your stub off the white pivot piece, and thread it onto the rod. Then thread the stub+rod into where it's supposed to be. If it works, Pull it back off, apply threadlocker to the rod and install to the stub, wait for cure time, then thread that with threadlock into where it's supposed to go.

    May require drilling/tapping to use the threaded rod, but that's nothing a simple tap and die kit can't handle.
     

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