**SOLVED!** Suddenly NO radio/dome lights/bed light/door locks / key fob and trac control light on

[UPDATED: 11/13 **SOLVED** post #10]

[updated: 10/17 looks like it might be the body ECU uhg!]

So yesterday suddenly while driving straight down the hwy my radio shut off and wouldnt turn back on. I also noticed the traction control light came on and the button has no effect on the dash light.

Then when i got to my destination i get out and my key fob would not lock/unlock the doors, (even though the led fob still illuminates and still works to start vehicle). Also the door lock buttons on the interior of door function normally while the vehicle is running but will not lock/unlock when vehicle is off.

And the interior lights and bed light work when door is open or manually activated while vehicle running but when turned off do not turn on with door, or manually.

All fuses are fine, even though I don't see one for traction control.

My 2021 that I've owned about 4 months has 24k mi is basically stock. I did just install an ebay CAI about a week ago, (I know, i know, putting my flame suit on ). I had battery disconnected for about an hour during "hot" air intake install. Been running fine ever since and getting same mileage. I also installed rear airbags, and have towed once a couple months ago, and installed plug n play aftermarket tow mirrors, both about two months ago.

Orig owner was a realtor and he just drove it around for work. He did have a fox leveling kit installed but it was basically a mall crawler.

I actually pulled every fuse in the interior fuse box: all ok. Haven't checked any relays etc yet.

Any help appreciated...

[Edit: I'll start by reinstalling oem air box, and reinstalling interior halogen ]

 

This is going to sound crazy... but get your battery load tested. My battery was on its way out and my 2018 and it went absolutely haywire with warning lights and weird stuff happening. Swapped the battery and it fixed it.

 

It does appear to be the original battery. Only 24k miles. And every time I start it sounds like the starter is spinning at the same speed, so it doesn't seem, like the battery is any weaker than it used to be. But not a bad idea.

 

So it looks like it might be the Body ECU. I used just answers dot com. I've heard good things about them in the past. With my vehicle symptoms the "TOYOTA mechanic" said to locate and disconnect the body ecu, clean connections, reassemble with electrical grease, (with battery disconnected of course), then if problems don't go away after reconnecting it will need a new Body ECU and it needs to be programmed for my vehicle.

My symptoms:
Trac control - dash light on
Radio - no power
Key fob - lock/ unlock not working, but still allows push button start to work
Interior/bed lights - work normal while vehicle is running, not working when off
Power door locks - work while vehicle is running but not with vehicle of
Cruise control - gives an error when trying to set.
Tripometers - A&B both reset every time vehicle is restarted

 

My brand new battery went out on my 2020 at around 20k. Apparently the OEM batteries are hit or miss and are garbage. The dealer replaced it with another battery that is a Toyota one, not the OEM one. Supposedly those hold up better, but we will see. Vehicles now a days are picky with voltage.

 

Dont be guessing, it will get expensive. try the small things first. ECUs fail, but not that common.

 

Did you check the fuses under the hood?

It sounds to me like it is more of a ground problem.
When the engine is running is has a the ground, but when it is off you don't..

Look thru the wiring diagrams at ground points and see the common grounds of your issues....
Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

For instance...

 

@1lowlife Awesome thanks for that. Grounds are a great idea to check There is a potential of rodents since we live outside of town, but i see no evidence under the hood. And yes I checked every fuse and held each one up to the light to confirm. And thanks for the working diagram.

I saw someone else's link to more wiring diagrams but now can't find the post.

 

You'll find everything you need in this link..

Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

Well I gave up trying to diagnose it myself. I brought it to a local shop JB Auto in Arroyo Grande, CA who specializes in toyota, ( in other words, he doesn't work very much! ), and he diagnosed the problem as the "short pin" that was missing altogether in the engine fuse box.

He said he's never seen this before. He said he called toyota and they told him it's not sold separately. One would have to buy an entire fuse box.

He basically used a jumper wire to make the connection. He said it should work fine. But that he would call me since toyota said they would call him back with a solution.

Can someone post a pic of what this pin looks like? He said it's kind of looks like a fuse, but the two legs are turned 90°. (Mechanic said this short pin is different than older Tundras)

He said that this pin is used if one were to store their vehicle for a long period of time. You would pull this pin. I guess things like navigation, since the stereo didn't work, and things that might run down the battery are disconnected when this pin is pulled.

I hope this helps someone in the future!

 

Uh, where did it go?? How did it work before without it?

 

My 2014..
It is a bypass and looks just like a regular Mirco fuse..

 

That is what I was thinking?

@84runner I can't believe I can't find a replacement online.
Maybe try sticking the biggest amperage fuse you can find and see if that works..
Perhaps a 40 amp and see if it blows?

BTW it eats at my OCD to see your fuses aren't turned the same way..

 

Here is what my '18 looks like. I'm a bit confused because it looks like my "short pin" is in a different location than OP's. I've never tampered with my fuses with the exception of tapping grille lights into INJ.
Even more confused because my lid only shows 3 slots in this location but there are 4 actual.

 

Sure looks like your short pin is in a different location, yes. Definatelly odd about the lid showing only 3 fuses and there is actually 4!!! Maybe the lid was swapped?

Looks like your "short pin" is out. Did you take it out just for the pic, or was it missing? The slot for your pin looks like it is the same style (pins are 90° off compared to a normal fuse).

 

Well I bought my Tundra used in Nov '23 with only 23k miles so I can't say 100% that it's the lid that came with the truck but it seemed to me that the truck was completely stock and may have never had the fuses changed around.
Im currently working on a dashcam install so I e been looking at all my fuses and came across your post. Picture was taken just now without removing or changing anything. My truck has been operating fine since I've had it. What is that 5A fuse you have next to the 20A? What you have there is what I have what looks like what @1lowlife is holding in his hand in the above post. That could be my "short pin" as it doesn't have a number on it

 

The 5A fuse is labeled "gateway" whatever that means. The fuse @1lowlife is holding is from a 2014, so the pins are 90° perpendicular to ours

 

I'm talking about this one on yours...


See that's where I have what looks to be my "short pin" on mine.

You have a '21 limited with likely more features then my '18 Sport but it's weird that my short pin is where you have that 5A I'm pointing at. Could yours maybe be in the wrong spot? We need to look for others fuse box pictures to compare.

Also...

 

WHAT! Wow then I have a fuse that isn't labeled also! Crazy.

The other thing is mine seemed to have these symptoms where all these items weren't working because the short pin was missing. Unknown for how long... But yours is still operating fine without it! I'm baffles.

All I know is all my symptoms were cured after the jumper wire was installed in the short pin location