Headlight vertical adjusting help

I replaced both Headlight housings about a month ago but barely getting around to adjustment now. Old Toyota OEMs w/new Toyota OEMs. The swap was relatively simple and non-problematic.

The Vertical Adjustment: another story.
Driver side is higher than passenger by at least 5-10 degree. Or, in lineal terms, on a 5' projection [daytime on garage door], about 4" higher than passenger.
I wanted to try and at least do a 'Gross' adjustment before any extended night drives.
Using a Std head screwdriver, Im able to rotate the geared wheel, 1-2 notch at a time, but after turning it almost 180 degree, I get no adjustment whatsoever...as a check against a defective housing, I tried adjusting the passenger side and after a 180- 270 rotation of the adjustment gear, same thing- no movement.

Question: Do these gears need more than a 360 turn to make an observable adjustment?

Understood that @5' projection, the vertical correction is harder to see, but Im referencing a 'Sharpie' line on blue tape on the garage door. I wasnt able to see even 1/8" movement on either side.
Did a search w/tangential results, but mostly aftermarket headlight can issues. Anyone go thru this w/brand new Toy OEMs?

 

I use a 1.5ft long Phillips
the gear adjustment is super minimal so it takes quite a few turns to get it aligned

 

Thanks fishNinja! u are correct: super minimal.
OK. Not much problem turning gear 'TEETH' w/long driver. However after rotating gear WHEEL 180-270 [not gear teeth], no notable difference.
According to Toyota service illustration, the reflector dish is being pushed or pulled by a screwshaft married to the gearhead. Maybe the screw thread is so fine that it will take 2-3 rotations of the scrweshaft [gear wheel] to make a notable vertical correction?
Thats what Im asking.
Because after near 270 degree gearwheel rotation of either new housings, I got no discernable correction [movement].
Whats the ODDS of 2 new Toyota housings not adjusting properly?

I think I may have to remove the 'HI' housing and make the adjustment using the 8mm bolthead of the gearwheel. [test in progress, standby]

OK.
maybe Im the last guy to know this here, but i think I just resolved my adjustment issue.

I just went out to garage and confirmed my above thot, w/out removing signal housing to access new housing 8mm adjustment gear.
Took the 18yr old housing out of storage, pulled the weatherboot and h4. Then got an 8mm and makita driver and spun it moderately slow to observe the h4 bucket swing up or down. It takes quite a few 'gearwheel' rotations to see any 'gross' movement.. So, I took my Stanley 6" driver [barelylong enough and just as an FYI, the adjusting tunnel wont take much more than 11mm, or 1/4" driver head] and gave the gearwheel another full rotation [which is about 20 screwdriver rotations], which makes overall at least 2 full rotations, to see a lineal +/- 4" movement. I lowered the driver side that much to match the passenger side; Im probably much closer now to the Toyota "10ft projection" spec illustration than what i got out of the box from Toyota [for $225 a side!].

Rotating the 'gearwheel' IN, as in tightening a screw, adjusts the h4 bucket in down direction and vice-versa. So that also means that you will need to "patiently" turn your screwdriver 'in the tunnel' quite abit to make one full gearwheel rotation [if need gross correction]; IE a lot of srewdriver [+/- 20 tooth gear] 'engagement turns' to get a single gearwheel rotation. I wonder if Toyota has a 'SST' driver with properly matched spline to be able to use a motorized driver and achieve gross corrections quickly.
Also, as pointed out by @shifty, the gearwheel is smooth turning, but neccesarily has some resistance and altho the [Toyota] gearwheel is metal, I tried to be careful to not strip or grind against gear teeth. A Phillips might be easier to get smoother engagement, but cant be broader than 1/4" head. I used a standard head and I think I saw a post where a Scamazon tool seemed to have a matching spline end and maybe hex at other end and probly be the most efficient tool for 'adjustment tunnel' access.
Lot of words for such a simple concept.

 

Kudos for properly adjusting your headlights. I did mine a while back after leveling the front, and it took some time to get it right.

 

Thx ATBAV8.
I always try to go 'POLAR' [path of least resistance, cuz im lazy like that too], so 1st time around i didnt want to over-muscle my new $225 toyota housings.
Also, procedure was covered here:
https://www.tundras.com/threads/headlight-aiming-sorry-newb-here-again.115970/#post-2981945

and as pointed out, might be just as much work taking out Turn signal housing and going straight to the gearwheel bolthead...I just dont like chance of breaking that housings' tension tabs, being 20yr old plastics. Although I did grease coat the tabs when I replaced the Hdlt-Housings.

 

Wow. $225 for OEM headlights each side? I'm all about OEM on these trucks but I did make an exception on headlight assemblies. Based on info in another thread, I went with new assemblies from Rock Auto option at about $70 a side. Might be worth checking out Rock Auto for other stuff in the future.

 

Yeah, im up on that game, but i want stock and were i to do the 'HID Projector' mod, id go w/aftermarkets. So, will just live w/less bright; primary reason for my FGT is boat hauler and thats rarely after dark.
Altho I am going w/a 'Headlight Services` harness soon. I can live w/a bit more wattage and will
also instlall LED's in fogs.
I guess I dont mind spending on the OEMs quality for restoring a known commodity [my FGT] vs. trying to update headlights to current standards. Either way, it still beats buying a new[er] Tundra.