Installed Land Cruiser blower motor, blew something 0 volts at the harness

I have a 2013 Sequoia Limited. In my typical negative lottery fashion, I hoped to get more air volume from my HVAC & installed Land Cruiser blower 87103-60560 as have numerous others.

After the install, I had nothing. Connected the harness to the old, working 1 minute earlier motor, nothing. Fluke reads 0.3 to 0.7 or so with the AC running full bore. Rear AC is working, all dash indicators show the AC working, nothing else is not working.

I checked EVERY fuse & searched & searched for possible solutions and see there is a relay in the diagram but can't find it. Can anyone help please?

I ordered the main fusible which I can't tell if any of the segments are blown but would hate to r&r it to find it's not the issue.

This is from the diagram for 2008-2013 Sequoia.

It seems, # 27 is the HTR relay, my fusebox looks nothing like this.

 

I think I found the relay, I have 14v at the single top pole & bottom right, nothing in the middle.







Maybe it's not the right one, I got P144C while I was swapping the relay, evap error is what I see when searching the code.

 

This is the motor that caused this, lots of guys have it issue free.

 

Its not a relay, the AI-HTR relay is for the ECM and is not related to the blower motor.

You are looking for the 50A HTR fuse. No relays involved.

Its #13 and part of the main fuse assembly. 13-19 are all fuses in the "main fuse"

 

Try to look down in these clear windows to see if any of the fusible links look burned up.

 

First off, I would lookup the correct fuse diagram. Did you check the fuses under the dash? There are at least 3 that are related to HVAC under there.

 

Can't see anything in the main fuse deal, I checked every fuse including pulling/replacing them. That was the diagram from Rainman rays helpful diagram thread.

 

If you have 0V at the blower motor harness, part of your main fuse is blown. Fusebox has to come apart to replace it. Some videos on youtube show the process.


Also its the right diagram you just have to turn it to the right perspective.

 

I ordered the main fuse, supposed to get it by noon. Any ideas why a new motor would do this?

 

Was it plugged in backwards???? That would be my first guess. Look at the wiring connector, the fan motor close.

You could also test the new motor with jumper leads to verify 12+ and ground. Its marked + and -

 

did you disconnect the battery before you replaced it? I agree with Jeff, I'd test it with a 12v power supply and see what you learn.

 

The plug goes one way, I didn't pull the battery, I tried giving both motors 12 volts, neither do anything. The old fan was fine just old.

 

That is odd. no power to the plug and no power to either fan from an outside source. I don't remember what mine looked like, maybe there is a control signal/wire to make it spin.

 

They reversed the damn connector at the motor!



I get 10 seconds with the data line grounded with the old motor, the new motor is toast. Adios 110 bucks, don't understand how others were able to P&P.

 

Duh it wont come on until it has a data signal from the data line.

New motor may not be toast. Obviously the fuse is done for.

I think I would replace the fuse, put the stock motor back in and make sure everything is working. Then if you wanted play with the new motor. You could provide your own 12+ and ground to the new motor and create a jumper from the data line of the connector to the motor for testing. This would keep the fuse from blowing again. Obviously be careful with this.

 

Are those 2 different blower part numbers?
@Jowett post from the original post shows a different part number.


What's the difference between your motor 60560 and the other 60481?

 

I got the new fuse, the new motor has failed to elect a pope, black smoke released. Doubt it can be fixed.

Even sitting on my desk, it's hard to see the filaments.

Not sure on either question, I got the part number from the thread, I thought someone posted it was right, I need a part number intervention.

 

I know on the next few pages of that thread a different part number was being tossed around that was different than the original land cruiser part 87103-60481that Jowett shared.

 

I just dove into this… the Sequoia uses a different part number from the Tundra. 87103-0C050 vs

$151 87103-0C040 Blower Motor Sub-Assembly

87103-0C040 respectively. The Sequoia part is already the upgraded brushless type, so there’s no need to swap it. Toyota reversed the + and - terminals as compared to the Tundra. This was likely done to prevent folks like us from easily upgrading/swapping the Tundra to the brushless Sequoia piece. Toyota did not reverse the terminals on the brushless Land Cruiser parts, so we can plug and play swap it into the Tundra. I’ll update the original thread so this won’t happen again.

 

Man that sucks @e30cabrio! Hopefully you can shove the original one back in and no other issues.

 

Blew my fusible, it is out (NIGHTMARE) but the dealer sent god knows what.

I wasn't driving it without the blower, sure as hell can't now.

 

Mine has one bigger molex connector, the part number is 82620-00300, this is 82620-0C030 and the vin search calls for 82620-0C030.



I mickey moused a 50amp fuse in and put the broken one back, ordered another from another dealer based on vin search. This is freaking crazy.

 

Hopefully that gets you going until the correct one gets to you. Really sucks!

 

It is working, old fan & fuse are in. It's 100% a problem I created. I just hope the next one fits.

 

The end of this mess is new motor & fuse in, there is more volume from the new fan, I had to reverse the wires. The fuse is a bitch to replace, it got easier the 4th time. For a '13 Sequoia Limited, the PN is 82620-00300 but that is superseded by 82620-0C030

 

Bluetooth fuse.

Movement is from cutting into it.

 

As much of a pain as it is to change, it did exactly what it was supposed to do and helped prevent the truck from catching fire.

Like most modifications go, always something new to learn, unfortunately for you the hard way.

Hopefully people will now be checking blower motor polarity before just plugging it in.

 

Sure wish I had, now I have an extra oem fuse (ordered one from a dealer and another from Amazon) to be sure I had the right one and for 40 bucks keeping the extra one to ensure (the way things go for me) I’ll never need it.

Also have the new fan I killed it's logic board and the functional original