2001 tundra high speed vibrations after changing shocks

Like the title said. Truck starts shaking after getting up to 50-60 mph.
Recently changed the front shocks and rear shocks. Nothing else.
Before that the truck
Would shake in lower speeds but not in the higher speeds. The bushings on the shocks were definitely worn out before they were changed out.

noticed the bushings on the rack and pinion and worn out might change them and see if that helps but I don’t think that’s the cause.

lbj look fine for being old. Still
Have yet to check on the controls arms to see if the bushings are worn there.
Any suggestions ?

 

Did you get an alignment after the lift

 

@khooii. I haven’t gone to get an alignment yet. That’s what I wanted to do first before I started messing with other suspension parts

 

Get an alignment any time you work on suspension in any way. 100% is the cause of your vibration. Cam bolts easily could have gotten thrown out of whack doing a strut.

nothing wrong with doing the rack bushings or anything else you saw but that’s not going to fix your vibration and in fact might make it worse before you get an alignment.

If you get aligned then go back in and mess with tie rods and other stuff to do rack bushings you’ll want to get an alignement again.

 

@Burgmane appreciate the responses y’all. Might go in and replace those rack bushings before I get it aligned so that it’s all out of the way at once.

 

First off, LBJ need to be done based on mileage (~100k), not condition - catastrophic, unexpected failure is common. Only use OEM LBJ from a reputable source, never aftermarket. Buy 8 new OEM bolts at the same time. IF you need help with part numbers, holler. You DO NOT want to be one of the hundreds of stupidasses who've found this out the hard way, then meandered back to their favorite Tundra source to complain about failure. Toyota explicitly warns owners to check every 5 years, and that LBJ are a wear item. But, why OEM? Because aftermarket almost always uses plastic/ bushings internals where Toyota only uses metal internals. Even "well respected" brands like MOOG. This is very well documented in a myriad online videos.

Vibration-wise....

You failed to tell us probably one of the most important things about your truck. The year doesn't help us as much as knowing if it's 2WD or 4WD. Beyond that, it's helpful to know if you're feeling the vibration in the steering wheel, the seat, or other. Steering wheel is often wheel tire/bearing related IME. Seat is typically driveline related.

Back to the driveline stuff, which often causes whole-vehicle vibrations, or vibration felt in the seat. If your truck is 4WD, you should be greasing the entire driveline (all joints and yoke) every 5,000 miles or you'll ultimately dry up and kill your u-joints, which will cause vibration. If 2WD, there are no zerks, it came with sealed joints (no zerks) from the factory, and those also have a life expectancy on them. I recommend grabbing the shaft on either side of every joint and trying to push the shafts in opposing directions to check for play. Also try to rotate the shaft and check for clanging/play. Our trucks also use a carrier bearing, it's the hanging dunut thingy your driveshaft passes thru under the bed. You should inspect that carefully, make sure the rubber isn't cracked/split/gone, and no metal clanging when you move it around. A little play, up to half inch in either direction is normal, but clanging isn't.

However, shaking felt in the wheel, starting around 60mph, which subsides upwards of 75-80mph is classic tire balance issue. Tire cupping, which isn't obvious to most people, can also cause vibrations.

There are some other odds and ends, but what I'd tell you is, more than half the vibration issues we encounter end up being one of four things:

• Failure to lube the driveline (which ultimately led to fatigue)
• Tire balance issue (which can sometimes be reduced by X-rotating the tires)
• U-joint failure (often has signs of squeak or clunk, failure to address promptly can wear out pinion, carrier, and other bearings)
• Carrier/center support bearing worn out (this is far less common than U-joints)

If you're over 150k miles, you're probably overdue to have the U-joints done, maybe the carrier bearings. It's not impossible work to do, ChrisFix has a solid video showing the process and how to diagnose, I'll link below. However, fair warning if you choose to let a shop do the work: DO NOT USE CHAIN SHOPS. This is one of two places I'll tell everyone to use a specialty shop: Anything linked to driveshafts, and anything linked to A/C. Always find an A/C specialty shop for your A/C work, and always look for a driveshaft shop to do U-joints/carrier bearing/etc.

Disclaimer: I hate ChrisFix, but he generally puts out legitimately good content for anyone wanting to learn. He's not full of shit like some other shill fucktards on YouTube (I'm looking at you, Scotty Kilmer)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5gOeBE-ylQw​

 

How much torque did you apply to those lug nuts

 

2wd
Yes I’ve read a lot on forum about going oem for lbj’s sucks those things are little pricey but worth the peace of mind hearing the stories of the aftermarket ones.
it’s has at least 167 or 185 I haven’t checked since it’s my dad who drives and I’m just helping where I can.
I’ll ask on where he feels the vibrations and give the drive shaft a push to see if there’s any big play in it

 

Just as tight as I could without a torque rod

 

Spec is 83ft/lb, which isn't as tight as you think. Overtorque'ing them can lead to warpage and vibrations.