Leaking Fumoto Valve

Installed a Fumoto Valve in my 2010 DC. The drain plug that I took out was not an original size. It was a 1/2 x 20 drain plug, not the metric size from toyota. I chased the threads with a Tap and installed the proper size. Now I have a small drip from the valve threads. I used the fiber washer that was part of the valve kit. Do you think maybe a neoprene washer would correct that???

 

I might do a copper crush washer in lieu of neoprene.

 

Since your oil pan threads are compromised, be very careful how much torque you use when tightening up the valve. Before I started buying new sealing washers for the drain plugs I just cleaned the old one and used Permatex Anaerobic gasket maker on each side of the washer. Next oil change you might try that on you fibre washer.

 

I have had good luck with bonded seal washers. A metal washer with a rubber seal attached to the inner diameter. You can usually get them at a real auto parts store. But, I would try what Dan suggested first.

 

I forgot about the washer you described. That's probably the correct way to do it.

 

Get a roll of thread sealant tape. Yellow for gas and oil and wrap the threads.
I don’t think washer is gonna work.

 

Put some form a gasket glue on the threads of the valve along with the washer.

 

Just get yourself one of this and apply it every oil change to reduce leaking. It’s high temp so should be safe to use.

 

So I hear what your saying, but I'm curious. Benefit of the fumoto is that you don't have to replace it each time (unless I missed that it should still be removed each change). So are you saying OP should remove and clean the threads and apply more thread sealant, or if he gets his leak stopped can he just run his application without taking it apart each oil change?

 

Yes once he gets the leak stopped the fumoto should never need to be removed

 

I think the OP mentioned that the Fumoto he got was the wrong thread pitch which compromised his oil pan. So now he’s getting a leak from it. Best bet is to thread seal it and add a washer.

 

@RobertD I see what I did there, lol. I meant the next oil change he does, and there after he won’t need to worry about the leaks.

 

If you can have the truck down for a day, drain the oil, remove the fumoto, lift the driver side front, let it drip for a while, then lower the driver side front and lift the passenger side front, clean up the the threads as well as you can to get them oil free, then reinstall the fumoto with thread sealant and washer. Leave it for the cure time (check the package). Then lower the passenger side and fill as normal.

If that doesn’t seal it, I’d change the pan.

 

OP here....Thanks for all the replies. I like what Chester Tundra said. I can have the truck out of commission for a few days. I will try that.

 

Can you not get a Fumoto with the proper thread, for the threads that are there??
Seems the best solution, without changing the pan to have the original threads back in place. Seems like your plug was the victim of an over zealous oil change kid and their infamous impact drivers.

 

Might seem excessive, but what’s replacing the oil pan with new proper valve going to cost.
So future you doesn't have to worry about this again. I’m asking cause I have no idea what all would be involved.

 

I might not have been clear in my original post. I returned the valve that is proper for the 2010 5.7 engine and ordered the one with the 1/2 x 20 threads that I found on the drain plug I removed. I then chased the 1/2x20 threads with the proper size tap due to the drain plug being a a little rough when removing it. Now I’m getting the leak. All the prior oil changes over the almost 3 years that I have owned the truck we’re done by a quick oil change place. I guess sometime over the previous years someone messed up the threads and replaced the plug with the one I found in the pan. From now on I will do the maintenance. The fumoto makes it easy…..if I can’t stop the leak.

 

This is why I wouldn’t trust anyone to change oil for my vehicles.

 

It's only the lower oil pan extension that would require replacement if this won't seal. From memory, I think it's nestled between a frame cross member and the front differential (4WD models) and I think all the bolts are accessible. If that's correct, it shouldn't be too difficult (or expensive) to swap it. I'd guess two hours (max) of shop time plus the cost of the part.

 

Yep, unless mine changed overnight, yesterday's underbody inspection proves you correct. It would be an easy job to replace the oil pan and that's exactly what I would do.

 

OP here....If the thread sealer doesn't work then my next move will be to replace the oil pan. It looks like the part is around 200.00 and is easily accessible.

 

Wow. 200 bucks. That's a bit salty.

 

Thanks, I ask these sometimes inane questions but it gives me valuable knowledge. I've got a 2010 5.7 4wd. I haven't touched it yet.
Still new to me but soon I'm going to get into this stuff and it will make more sense. I too will be installing a fumoto valve and changing over the oil housings etc.

 

I’d go aftermarket…it’s just an oil pan. $40
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2020,tundra,5.7l+v8,3445052,engine,oil+pan,5562

 

Thanks Chester.....if the thread sealer doesn't work I will definitely replace.

 

Good plan, hopefully the thread sealer solves it. Once the fumoto is in and sealed, there shouldn't be much reason to remove it.

 

When I bought my used 2008 5.7 4wd it had a "pan saver" plug in the oil pan. One of the first things I did was install a new lower pan. It was an easy job on mine. Its pretty easy to get to. The only trouble I've seen on this forum is when someone has rusty pan bolts.

 

OP here....Thread sealant worked....no more leaks. Thanks Chester.