A few questions. Diff seal replacement with CV's? UBJ assembly vs Front UBJ assembly?

I've got a few questions for ya guys.

My CV boots are torn on both sides and they have play, shop said they should be replaced. I'd rather not go broke having them do it for me so I'm planning on doing it myself and I might be able to use a guy's lift and have him help me with it. Planning on doing both upper ball joints as well. My cousin who owns a similar year Taco recommended replacing the seal (I'm assuming he means the diff seal, or is there a different one he could be talking about?) when I'm in there. I can't find it on the parts website but a quick google search gives lots, should I do that? If so does anyone have the part number for it? Any recommendations of other little things to replace/ grab while down there? Should I replace both, or just the worse one?

On the parts website I noticed that there is an Upper ball joint assembly (#43360-39075) costing $80 with discount and then there is a Front Upper Ball Joint assembly (#

$52 43310-39016 Genuine Toyota Parts - Joint Assy,Fr UPR Ba (43310-39016)

43310-39016) costing $50 with discount. Front UBJ assembly says guaranteed exact fit while just UBJ assembly doesn't. Anybody know which one to get or how they are different?

So I just got my new OEM LBJ's and was planning on putting them on, but while it would be fun to replace the LBJ's right now I'm assuming it's smarter to wait because I have to remove them when doing CVs.

 

First off, the Toyota CV axles are bulletproof. You’d be a fool to swap in aftermarket when you could just get an OEM reboot kit *IF* they are OEM and not clearly shot. Some play in the axles is normal. Mine were jiggly when I overhauled my suspension at 75k(ish) miles with no rough treatment, and show no signs of issues. Sounds like a shop is trying to sell you on shit you don’t need. Replace the LBJ and see if you have play. Be sure to get new OEM bolts if you didn’t.

Why are you replacing the UBJ? Are they showing signs of play? I can look up your part numbers but reality is, Toyota lets you buy the whole shebang with all clips, seals, retainers, or you can just buy the joint in some cases. I’d need to look in the EPC-DATA site with your VIN to explore for you. But you can easily look up the part yourself. There’s a sticky thread “how to order parts” that gives you a foolproof 3step process to locate your own parts everyone should know.

 

No I was going to do remanned OEM CV's for sure. The left one probably is fine, I just need to re clamp the boot. The right one's inner boot is very torn and probably has been for a while (bought the truck a few weeks ago) the left one has normal play I'd say but the right one definitely has more. From what I've heard rebooting is basically as much work as replacing, in which case I'd be willing to spend some more money on whole new axles.

The left UBJ was the one the shop said was the worst, and would be their priority to replace.

 

Remanned OEM CV are discontinued by Toyota supposedly.

Replacing is always easier than rebooting. Reman has the boots intact already, so it’s pop-and-swap.

UBJ suck but very doable at home. Hardest part is pressing out, but it’s not that hard if you pull the knuckle. With 4WD, as you and I both have, it’s a couple extra bolts and of course loosening the axle nut with an impact, ideally.

 

You're right, I thought I had found some last time I looked but upon further inspection there aren't any. The OEM price appears to be $390, is that the way to go or would NAPA or CVJ's be acceptable? They are much cheaper. I have tried searching the forums but it seems if remanned OEM is gone there is no perfect consensus. I've decided I'll probably just go with replacing the left side CV, the right one will be fine for a while.

Yeah the UBJ definitely seems like a pain. A pitman arm puller seems like it could make it easier. If I'm gonna be removing the spindle then I might as well replace that CV too though. Is removing the spindle recommended for UBJ swap?

 

I mean, if it were me, I'd replace with OEM new. You literally are NOT going to need to replace them again in this lifetime if you take care of them.

OTOH, you have guys on here who bought aftermarket, NAPA specifically, who are currently on their 3rd set in the timeframe I've been a member/lurker on this site.

Knuckle == Spindle. So yes, removal makes it hellaciously easier. But there are options for UBJ, here are a couple:

• Someone (a non-1st gen user) recently mentioned a ~$80 puller (maybe for pitman, but doesn't look like my pitman puller) that "works".
• The old-school way, i.e. cutting the stud off the UBJ so it's just the ball in the housing, which removed the obstacle of having room to fit cups and press over the stud.
• On some vehicles, maybe limited to DC and Sequoia (I dunno), if you undo the TRE and swaybar links (links you should unbolt before jacking up the truck for any suspension work but I digress), you can pitch the top of the spindle out of the wheel well at roughly 10 o'clock on passenger side or 2 o'clock on driver side, and potentially get enough room to clear the fender flare, there's a video of this on YouTube, some guy working on a Sequoia. I couldn't make it work on my '06 AC with fender flares.

Lemme hunt down the post I'm referencing in that 1st bullet point. Pressed-on BJ on many vehicles I've owned are classically a PITA. It is what it is. But I've never had as much problems with one as I had with my truck. I had to bail on my 1st attempt, button it all back up, and attack it another day. I was sick that day and not willing to put up with the shit, and too tired/worn down to think about it. Removing the knuckle (or spindle, w/e you prefer to call it, same thing) was the easy answer. It was a few bolts and an extra 5 minutes, but once the knuckle was off and on the floor of the garage, it took me 60 seconds to press the UBJ out, and would've taken another 60 to press the new one in.

That said ... I'm going to forewarn you: Check your dust shields once the rotor is back on. They like to get bent a little, and make contact with the rotor, leading to a weird squeal a lot of people, including me, misinterpreted for brakes.

 

Updated info:

More details on removal for 4WD is in this thread, reply # 18 and there's lots of other tips here too -> https://www.tundras.com/threads/upper-ball-joint-removal.42150/

The puller in question from above, which I cannot vouch for personally -> I can't find it, but it looked like what I'd call a gear puller or tie rod puller pictured below, only in my memory, it was red and black and silver, and I didn't understand how it'd work cleanly for 1st gen UBJ.

Torque spec for your entire front suspension is in the FSM, I can supply a screencap of that page if you need it.

​

 

Thank you Shifty! Sorry for wasting your time with dumb questions you are a lifesaver. I'm gonna throw some more grease in and just reclamp the left side. Right side I'll probably go Napa, are the remanned ones gonna be better than the new ones? just don't have the budget for OEM's.

Thanks for the advice on the UBJ's!

A screen shot of the specs would be great!

 

@shifty` do you know the part number for the differential seal on the right side? I'm trying to figure out exactly what it is but the schematics are beyond me

 

Can call Serra or Ourisman Toyota with your VIN and usually they will give you the part number. IIRC 9031147013 was the part number for the RH front diff seal on my 2003. It is worth studying how to seat the seal or likely it will leak again if it is seated too deep. Timmy shows the process of tapping in the passenger side seal and measuring (although on a 3rd gen T4R). Have done this on 03 Tundra with aftermarket seal at right depth that leaked then replaced with Toyota seal (that appeared to have a very minor lip difference) at appropriate depth measured by caliper that didn't leak but also verified front differential and actuator breathers were clear. If yours isn't leaking now then likely your breather is clear but can check.

Also, my UBJs were part number 4331039016. But suggest you check your VIN.

@shifty` will likely know however if the 2000 and 2003 are the same.