I am stuck here

I have a 2000 Toyota tundra 4.7 L V8. I’m having issues with my truck I changed the fuel filter, thermostat, spark plugs on it. The truck ran but it still felt like something was missing on it since I couldn’t stop and go it would always take a a extra second or two to start up and then idle a little rough then it would be fine, then it would not want to start up, I changed the fuel pump and that felt better and the truck was back up and running and then on my way to work it just lost power, it would not accelerate, and the steering was starting to get rough. thought it needed some gas put some gas in it. Try to crank it back up. Nothing got it towed back to my place and now I’m here.

 

OK. Check engine light lit? Any codes?

How many miles, and when was the last time the timing belt was changed? (needs to be done every 100k / 10yrs)

Last time the timing belt was changed, was the crank position sensor harness properly routed, in a way that it won't get clipped by a pulley or the serpentine belt?

Are you running the original coil packs, or did you replace them? Aftermarket are notoriously shitty. Only buy Denso, from a trusted source, i.e. avoid fleaBay and scAmazon.

 

Any check engine codes?

add some photos of your engine bay

 

Sounds like a vacuum leak. You've repaired everything else lol.

 

on top of what the guys have said, check fuel filter again to ensure it was installed correctly. if fuel pump helped, it could be a fuel delivery issue, filter may be messed up somehow.

 

It’s never the fuel filter…unless it’s aftermarket.

 

You didn't change out or clean the

MAF
Coil packs
Throttle body

You can do those three and come back with your results. Or just get the codes scanned so you know exactly what's wrong

 

Hopefully @Josh_22 can get back with us on it.

I'm suspecting his crank position sensor got nicked/sliced thru by the belt. It would have the slow building effect, gradually stopping the fuel pump from running.

Of course, the other likely alternative is, he made the stupid mistake of using an aftermarket fuel pump from the local parts store. They've been known to die within days or weeks of install. We've probably seen it on here half a dozen times since I signed up.

 

Sorry i am just know getting back to yall, i have alot off personal stuff going on but, 389,073 on the truck, timming belt was done before i got the truck, a open loop code does show up when i conect the scan tool with it. The truck will crank and it does want to turn over but i belive its not sending fuel properly, also did by the fuel pump from O reilly and got warrenty on it and by the looks of @Shifty suggestion i think i will return the pump and get my money back from them, and that is where i am at.

 

I am noticing lately, on here and in one of the Facebook groups, a growing disappointment with Oreilly Auto Parts. Seems to be a combo of them selling shit parts, shit service, never having basic items in stock, and inept employees who either don't know or blatantly lie about parts. Like the one guy on here recently who had an Oreilly employee tell him, "Oh, it's sold under another brand name, but I guarantee it's remanufactured Denso-Nippon!" when it wasn't.

@Josh_22 there's another possibility here. When you installed the new fuel pump, did you cut any wires? If you did, did you use sealed splices? If not, there's a solid chance you had one wiggle loose, or get corroded from the weather. You must use self-sealing splices any time you cut and crimp a wire outside the body of a vehicle else water/salt will destroy it within a short period of time.

Sadly it looks like Denso has discontinued the factory pump. The OEM part number for the entire drop-in pump and sender assembly is 23221-50060 (still available, $270 shipped right now if you order here and price will adjust in checkout, just avoid buying on scAmazon or fleaBay) but Toyota is also showing another part number 23221-32020 as the latest version, pump only, no assembly which you could get around $200 shipped once you enter checkout HERE with the 25% off sale going on right now. Denso's catalog had part numbers 950-0107 and 951-0003 as compatible replacement pumps for the earlier-year trucks, although I don't know which was the most-correct pump, both are discontinued.

I'd probably trust Hitachi or Bosch on this part, but there's nothing but counterfeits I'm seeing on fleaBay (all "don't come with original box", i.e. they're knockoffs, and many reference a Spectra part number, which is not Bosch!) and it doesn't look like RockAuto has any brands I'd trust other than this Delphi, but it's just as spendy as Toyota OEM, so you're better just dropping the cash on OEM. At least if you want to do this once, and not touch for another 200k+ miles.

Check wiring integrity before you replace pump or drop the tank. I really wish there was a better solution. Sucks this is one of those parts that's discontinuing.

 

Actually, Walbro is another company I'd trust. Implicitly, and just as much as Denso. I've used their pumps on GenIII/LS swaps a lot. And they show this part as the replacement for the 2000-2002 V8 Tundras. But again, it's a bit spendy. This is one of those parts where it's a pain in the fucking ass to replace, so you're effectively spending the $$$ to avoid doing the job again for another 10-20 years. It's also why the shitty parts store pumps are so cheap; they don't last, they're only intended as a crutch to get you by a little longer.

OEM full assembly, drop-in, makes the most longevity/economy sense, as f'd up as that probably sounds.

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Thank you for the information i have been really busy and i have not droped the tank or checked the pump since my very first post, my brother is a mechanic and he has been helping me with my truck, i really want to get my truck up and running again, any other tips send them my way i will be more active, also i will be up dating on anything new. Thank you once again

 

Update on my truck, it’s not getting any fuel, going to drop the tank and see the pump and warranty it out and get a oem one