Preferred mods for towing

2015 tundra 4x4,
What preferred modifications for towing TT, somewhat of a squat with my TT, have equalizer 4 point hitch, TT wgt. 6100 lbs.
Tongue wgt. 800 lbs.
air bags ? Add a spring ? Any other options?
Thanks

 

Is that 6100 gross or curb? If the former you should be able to pull it fine especially if you can reduce some of that tongue weight. And if you get the hitch set up properly. Hint: Dealers set it up enough to get you off the lot but in their defense, unless you have your trailer and truck loaded as you will when towing, they really can't adjust the WDH properly.

More info about your truck helps too. i.e., levelled, lifted, stock & model.

 

RAS- go with the HD setup; less than 2 hours to install...

https://activesuspension.com/products/toyota-tundra-1999-2020-hd

Roadmaster Active suspension review


OE style extendable tow mirrors; depending on which ones you go with they are from $200-$400 and these are plug n play (most are power and heated) extension of them is manually, but soooo worth it when towing

https://www.carparts.com/details/To...hWELhmmhO5z2-AH50EBoCWIQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

PS>>> iirc, RAS does offer a military/first responder discount (if that would apply to you) if you call them and order directly. These can usually be had for under $520 including shipping if you grab them on a sale as another option...

 

All you need is a properly adjusted WDH. No bags or additional springs should be needed if you are staying within the Tundras published weights.

 

RAS, chalk test, scale time, dialed in WDH, mirrors, practice loading for best distribution, TPMS, rear view camera, precise height measurement and an RV/tractor trailer type of GPS.

Enjoy!

Edit: some of these aren't necessary but def help, especially if new to towing or just looking for an easier, more confident experience

 

Thanks all, weight dist. hitch adjusted by dealership but already had TT and hitch, still have squat.
6100 curb, just clothes inside, tongue wgt full propane and batteries.
Pass thru front maybe 100lbs .
Lifted truck -pic

 

A leveled truck will have squat when towing. That 2” of extra height in the rear they come with from the factory is to accommodate payload and hitch weight when hauling and towing. I chose not to level my 2019 since I was using the truck to tow my travel trailer. When I’m hooked up to the trailer, truck sits level.

 

I still have a squat when TT added, original shocks as far as I know, as 2 and owner.
Going to replaced rear shocks to Bilstein B8-5100,
See if that helps

 

Scales. Get to the scales and get that nose back down by weight, not just height. Height will get you close, scales will get you spot on.

I drop 3/4" rear with a 900lb tongue weight. Nose, brought to unloaded height, is still ~120lbs light.

 

Supercharger lol

 

Rear sway bar and run it. I’ve never once fiddled with scales or springs and all that crap in 25yrs and never had an issue. A good wdh and you should be good to go. A good thing to look at is trailer tire speed ratings. Usually new trailers come with the cheapest bare minimum tire with a low speed rating. That would be my first upgrade. I prefer any tire with an 80+ speed rating. Not that I tow at 80 but 70-75mph is common.

 

I'm not familiar with that shock. Do those include coil springs?

 

Shocks will not help with rear end sag. They merely help control the suspension motion.

 

As mentioned, this is why trucks have rake. So when you do truck stuff with them you’re not nose-high. You should see how much weight a trailer’s tongue weight takes off the front axle of your truck. You need weight on the front axle for traction while steering.

A properly set WDH will solve your problems. But you really could stand to reduce the lift on the front of your truck.

Here’s a good pic of how a WDH works:
• Top left CAT scale ticket: empty truck
• Top right: truck and trailer. Notice the weight on the front axle reduced by nearly 500 lb. Bad for traction and steering. Also, his rear axle is over its limit by about 500 lb.
• Bottom left: truck and trailer with WDH. Notice his axle weights. Back within door jamb limits.

 

Will run to scales and get weights with trailer,
Do I need weight with out trailer?
As with my truck, how to get the front down with and raising the rear ?
Was told that if I drop the WDH to a lower setting on the hitch, it may cause the stabilizer forks on front to be close to rubbing?

 

You need weights with and without the trailer. Weight without will give front and rear axle weights. Then hook up with your weight distribution hitch, get weights again. Rear axle weight should go up with the tongue weight of the trailer. Front axle weight should not go down. If the front axle weight goes down, your WDH needs to be adjusted. The front axle weight should remain the same (ish) or go up if your distributing more weight forward onto the front axle, which also means your sending some weight back to the trailer. The first step is setting the hitch up correctly per the instructions. Hitch height first, then add the bars and check weights, then adjust head tilt etc. depending on hitch style.

 

Big brakes

 

I had my truck setup to tow. Things I did:

-Brake pads/drilled slotted rotors
-Rear air bags
-Lift the rear
-Shocks
-Rear Sway bar
-Gears
-Supercharger
-WDH when applicable
-Tune to keep trans temps down

It towed great, and towed many things way too large for it for a single trip and was plenty comfortable. I wouldn't say any of those are needed, but anything on that list will make the towing experience better.

 

The only one on the list I use when towing heavy is the WDH. Tows fine. That said, every one of these would be a welcome addition to the towing experience.

 

Gears
Tune
ADS shocks
U748
WDH set on a scale
RSB

simple, tows great.

 

A good read on weight distribution.
https://askthervengineer.com/the-big-7-misconceptions-about-weight-distribution-hitches/