Hybrid power outlet usage

Hey All,
Has anyone with a hybrid made extensive use of the 120V power outlets?

We're considering a refrigerated cooler for camping trips to be done with having to buy ice. Since we're sometimes in bear country, we keep all food inside the cab and I'm wondering about plugging in to the 120V outlet in the back of the console. I'm a bit concerned about drawing down the battery too much. I know that many of the coolers have a feature that shuts it down if the battery gets too low, but that presents a whole other issue, now, dunnit?

And while we're at it, does it draw from the traction battery, the main battery, or both? I'm assuming it's the traction battery. I'm also guessing that it's more efficient to use the 12V instead, since the cooler would just convert back to 12V anyway.

Anyone know if there's a good channel to run an extension cord from inside the cab to the outside without going through a door jamb?

 

I could be wrong, and if I am. I'll get roasted, but in my experience, the only way to power the plug in the bed and the plug facing the rear seat is to have the truck on. We've made 4-5 trips from Hou to Florida with a plug in Dometic fridge and every time we stopped to gas up or eat and turned the truck off, power to those plugs stopped.
If in fact that is the case, you'll have to keep the truck on to have your fridge powered since power is not constant-unless I'm doing something wrong.

 

Your best way to achieve what you want is to just plug the fridge into a DC outlet. Your fridge should have came with both DC and AC cords. The simplest way to do this is by using this...

$59 ARB 10900027 Fridge Freezer Wiring Kit and Threaded Socket Mount for quick installation onto your battery, compatible with all ARB Fridge Freezers.

Amazon.com: ARB 10900027 Fridge Freezer Wiring Kit and Threaded Socket Mount for quick installation onto your battery, compatible with all ARB Fridge Freezers. : Automotive
If you have experience wiring you can make it yourself for half the cost, just use good 10ga copper wire, not the copper clad aluminum (CCA) junk. Make it about 10' long and you'll be able to run it into the bed.
You can wire it directly to the battery under the rear seat on the drivers side. Fold down your rear passenger seat, remove 3 screw/bolts (one holds the jack bag tie down on) from the panel behind the seat. Carefully remove the panel and fold down the batting between the panel and the back wall. Down at the bottom of the cab you'll see the vent.
You can do one of two things, just push the cable through one of the vent flaps (it's just a thin rubber flap) and into one of the drain holes in the bed, reconnect the wiring to the cigarette outlet. Second is what I would do...drill a hole in the vent panel big enough to snake the wire through then into a drain hole in the bed. Silicone around the hole because water will follow the wire from the drain hole down the wire and try to get into the cab. If you just run it through a flap this will happen and water intrusion is highly likely unless you have a bed cover that is waterproof. I'd think you do since you're putting the fridge in the bed.
Hope this helps.

 

Ya Toyota needs to step up the hybrid game , ford generator or something would be great

 

Thanks for the info. I checked the manual and yes, the car must be on.

Great info! I'm glad to know that there is somewhere to run power through. We'll be keeping the fridge/cooler in the cab most of the time. I should be able to rig up something using those vents that will allow me to run a long extension cord to the power pole at the campsite. I'll be sure to add a drip-loop to the wiring to hopefully prevent the water getting in.

Indeed!