2.5 Gen Bilstein 5100

I know this 5100 horse has been beaten to death. But in reading all of the threads I am still a bit confused on what to do with my 2020 Tundra.

I'd like to do a 2" to 2.5" lift and remove a little bit of rake. I tow, so I don't want it to squat or reverse rake.

1. Did anyone do 5100's on the top setting with a 1" block or shackles on the rears?
2. What is better 1" block or shackle and why?
3. Will I need bump stops?
4. Is it recommended that I do UCA's and Diff Drop Kit with this lift? At what level lift is this recommended?
5. What is the best UCA and Diff Drop Kit everyone recommends?
6. Why do people use Coach Builder Shims and 5100's at the middle setting instead of 5100 at the top setting? What is David @ Coach Builders contact info?

 

So if your towing often, I'd skip blocks/shackles and go with RAS (roadmaster active suspension) it will help unloaded road performance and when you load the trailer it will help do better with the weight and provide stability kinda like a sway bar.

Do you need bump stop, gray area and a lot of folks don't, but you are increasing the distance your LCA will travel by increasing the length with the 5100 so I changed my rear bump stop (you have 2 on each side) when I went to 2" lift up front.

UCA's normally get recommended at 3", but its possible at 2.5. Depends on wheel set up and also each truck has some variation. If you are tight on budget and staying under 2.5", I'd probably chance it. If exceeding 2.5, I personally would do it so I'm not having to take everything apart to replace the UCA after doing the suspension swap.

People use the coach builder shims since the Tundra has a driver side lean. Stock shocks have a longer coil on the driver side that corrects for this but when you go aftermarket, the coils are the same length. By adding the shim on the driver side you keep the driver/passenger with the same shock characteristics. If you set your driver side coil to give you that extra height, it will now reach differently. Same with folks that set the 5100 to middle and then shim both (driver side more for above stated reason), the shocks are softer when not set for max height so that gets you the needed height but maintains the improved ride of the 5100.

5100 will require your stock coil overs. If you have a lot of miles already on them. It might be worth just buying the 6112, larger body shock and comes with coils in the kit.

 

Was about to text you this thread lol glad you have seen it

 

I have 5100 at middle setting in front and 5100 w/ 1.5" shackles in rear.

Shackle is better, because you get better U-joint angle in prop.shaft.

You may want to add Timbren SES to help with heavy loads. I have them in wife's Sequoia, they're great.

I'd keep stock UCA until it fails, no point in throwing money at the problem that does not exist yet. For 2" diff drop is not needed, perhaps.

 

Also something else to keep in mind, if you go above 3 inch (I am not sure about 2.5) you might need sensor re-calibrate from the dealer or the sensor will be pointing sky high and go haywire due to that.
UCA is optional but some rather buy once cry once install once and get it done with. But nothing wrong with keeping it stock until it fails and swapping it out, especially if funds/budget is tight.
Otherwise, @memario1214 is your man and source to get the parts on a fair price.

 

agreed.
Given i've been running them for the better part of the last 6 years I personally recommend 6112's over 5100's on a Tundra. you will get plenty of lift (2-2.5") by just dealing with the front and if you pair it with the RAS will retain your towing ability.
Blocks are total garbage.

 

Haven’t installed them yet, but I’m going Eibach Pro Truck shocks all around with a 1” block in the rear. Went Eibach has they have more height options than the Bilsteins do. Was initially going to set the fronts at 1.3” but I think I’m going to go 1.9” with the block.

I already have Sumo Springs which work really well for hauling loads and have kept my springs in good shape. I suspect the Sumos have kept the stock leaf springs from getting flattened as even loaded down I have positive arch in my springs. Empty there’s a half inch or so between the Sumos and the truck frame after 21k miles.

A small block is fine. A 2.5” block used to come factory on Fords so they could use the same leaf packs on 2wd and 4wd models.