Power steering lines??????

Have to replace both power steering lines that run from rack up to reservoir and the pump that has that sensor thing.

looking on Rock Auto, none of the photos seem to look like what I have. Should I just take them to auto parts store and order?

one line runs to reservoir and one goes to pump. Just two. Thanks.

 

High pressure line goes to pump. Return line (low pressure) goes to reservoir. You could just use a 3/8” hose to replace the rotted return line from the hard line to the reservoir. Only issue is getting the 3/8” over the reservoir connection which takes a little bit of lubrication to do. Hydraulic hose can be picked up at Autozone or any parts chain store.

However, if you’re going to replace the send line to the pump, you want to buy the whole line assembly to do both instead.

Someone else can chime in on Rockauto who’s ordered one from them. I think the diagrams aren’t accurate but I can’t be sure.

 

I unfortunately need to replace everything. All the metal tubing is shot and rotted through and the hoses as well or dry rotted to a certain extent.

I’m putting in a new rack. I may as well just do everything while I’m in there.

 

When I did mine, I bought the SunSong pressure and return lines from Rock Auto. They worked for my truck. I know others on here have used SunSong as well.

What's different about your lines and the ones you've seen in pictures?

 

I have another question the sensor thing that goes to the top of the power steering pump. It is tighter than hell I have pushed and pulled, but I don’t want to break it. Am I able to soak that with penetrating spray?

I just wanna be sure since it’s some sort of sensor

 

Are you talking about the power steering air control valve, that has two vacuum hoses attached? If so, it's just a valve. It should have threaded neck on it, on the other side of the bulge from the hose bibs.

 

Based on your picture in your other thread, disconnect the 2 hoses and use a wrench to loosen the air control valve, then use a socket and loosen the bolt on the top. It took some force to loosen them on my truck, but nothing out of the ordinary. I don't see why you couldn't use penetrating oil first, no harm in trying.

 

yeah, I can’t for the life of me get it to break loose. I pulled so damn hard. I thought I was gonna round off one of the edges so I stopped. I put a little bit of penetrating spray just a tiny amount, but it is not moving.

 

It's safe to use penetrant on that. The valve itself looks like this when removed, and it's not a sensor, it's an air valve that redirects vacuum when engaged.

Some of them come with threadlock pre-applied on the threaded shaft. As long as you stay on the metal threaded part with your tools, you likely won't break anything, but this is not a part you want to break. Even the Dorman replacement is something like $70. Leverage is your friend.

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Finally broke loose / knuckle buster.

 

this was inducing my mechanic rage just reading it lol