Screwy power window issue

I have already replaced all the switches on both doors as well as the motor (twice) and regulator on the passenger side and that didn't affect the issue one iota. Here's the issue, with both doors closed the driver's window works but the passenger does not. However, if I open either door they will both work until I close that door and then the pass side stops working again. I have performed every reset ritual posted on the forum and Internet without success multiple times. WTH is going on here?

Is there a master control module (not the master switch) hidden somewhere? Inside a door or under the dash?

 

Have you checked for remnants of a formerly installed alarm behind your door cards? Like, any evidence someone slapped a relay inside the door (example, if you need it, see here for more pictures in context, but realize some installers will put the relay inside the kick panel for weatherproofing purpose).

We would typically use relays like this at the shop to allow for remote roll-up/roll-down teeing off aux contacts for alarm expansion.

Here's why I ask. Typically, an aftermarket alarm would also tee into the door contact/plunger that's used to determine if the door was open. You have a condition where door open/door close *seems* to impact something else inside the door, and both that contact and the window/lock controls would be tied back to aux contacts in an aftermarket alarm. If someone had an alarm at some point, and that alarm was failing as they always eventually do (avg lifespan of major brand-names bitd was 15-20 years, currently is probably 20-40% less for name brands), then you have those circuits tying back into a PCB that is potentially failing, and could cause those impacts.

OR if you know 100% there was NEVER an aftermarket alarm installed - i.e. there are ZERO evidence splices or aftermarket boxes anywhere under the driver's side of the dash and none in the driver kick panel - just consider that all the items you mention (Both the door contact wires and the window power and door lock power/control wires) all pass through the door harness. It's worth mentioning, on many cars I've installed on, the passenger(s) windows typically have circuit passthru on the driver's side control panel (hence why you can lock out the other windows).

I'd be checking:

• Is there any evidence of rub-out on the wire bundle from the driver control panel, into the main bundle, up to the door jamb?
• Is the grommet on the driver door jamb intact?
• If you pop off the driver's kick panel cover, check the door harness bundle down to where it hits its bulkhead just inside the door, see any evidence of wire damage, or water intrusion to the bulkhead?
• What about the three things above, but on the passenger door?

If there's no former/current aftermarket alarm at play, it almost sounds as if, when the door is open, something is grounded and allowing the circuit to work when that one door is open, but closing it is breaking the circuit.

I remember from previous conversations, that some trucks may pass the door/window function through the BCM. However, I don't fully understand what 1GT cab types it applies to, where/what functions are tied into the VIPS (vehicle intrusion protection system) like the RS3000 and RS3200.

A lot of text, I get it. I guess the "tl;dr" version is:

• Thoroughly check for existence/former presence of aftermarket alarm: Relays, splices/crimps/etc., remnants of alarm boxes, under dash/in kick panels, in door
• Get creative with testing: How does the truck know the passenger door is open? Try unhooking the door contact so the truck thinks the door is open, then close the door, does it work? If not, you know you should be start looking for pinch points

 

It has the RS3000 system from the factory but I have no idea if it works as there is no remote for it. Otherwise, I can find no wiring that doesn't belong there or any evidence an add-on security system was ever installed. One of these days when I have some spare time I'll get the meter out and start testing circuits.

 

I'd be scoping out behind the kick panels on both sides to review the door harness wiring and connections.

I wouldn't be able to help myself, I'd also check the passenger door plunger to see if it's NO or NC. If the circuit is typically broken when the door is open, I'd be dying to know what happens if I break the circuit, then close the door.

I realize that may not make sense, gist being.

• Window rolls when passenger door open
• Window doesn't roll when passenger door is closed
• What happens if the door is closed, but the door plunger that tells the truck whether the door is open/closed is saying the door is open, but it's actually closed?

If you find the window rolls when the plunger says the door is open, but the door is actually closed, and it shouldn't be rolling up because the door is closed ... then you know you have a circuit issue. If the window fails to roll up still, with the door plunger in a state it'd be in while open, then I'd suspect your door is pinching something when it closes, i.e. there's a problem with the door harness, likely where it passes thru the jamb ... like the rubber boot it passes thru is torn/cut/stabbed, and when you close the door, it's pulling a wire apart, but when you open the door, the wire is making connection.

 

Had a moment to do a wee bit of testing today and found this out - The passenger window will open/close once the driver's door opens past the halfway point (well beyond where it would have any affect on the plunger switch); more than halfway open the window works, more than halfway closed it stops working. I checked the cable from the pillar to the door and it's good so it seems to be something inside the door. Guess I have to rip the door panel off and take a looksee.

I don't suppose someone might have a diagram of the power window circuit for an 01 AC?

 

OPEN SESAME.

I think you'll find there's a wire that's rubbing through. There's no tears at all in the rubber jamb boot? If not, must be rubbing something inside the door as you said.

 

After some additional testing it's come down to a problem between the pillar and the door, inside the flex boot. With the engine running and the driver's door fully open the passenger window works but, if I pull just right on the flex boot while holding the button the window will stop and then start moving again when I let go of the boot so something is ucfupped in that harness. Well at least I know where to look now.

 

That's the jamb boot I'm referencing. I've seen cases in the shop BITD, where the door harness with have a twist in it and/or a ziptie, or other type of thing, and natural torstion from opening/closing the door will contribute to wire pinch or twist that rubs a wire casing raw, or causes a wire break. Also seen where water gets into the sheath and degrades wire, causing a snap, but only on older vehicles. Also seen shit get jammed in the door and puncture the boot, and a wire, hence why I keep asking about the boot

A lot of times the rubber cable boots on these trucks can be popped out at either end, they're just held in with a lip, so if you push in at one side, you can pop it in toward itself.