Ac issue. Need advice.

So the air coming out on my driver side is a little cool(I think I need a recharge) but the air coming out the passenger side isn’t cool at all. Anyone have any suggestions on what’s wrong. I don’t really wanna pay a shop just yet. I wanna see if I can figure it out first. I have it on full blast and max ac. Thanks!

 

Could be so many things. Have you checked to see if the AC clutch engages? That would be a first step. Second, if you don’t have AC gauges, remove the blue cap from the AC line in the engine compartment. With the engine NOT running, depress the valve stem momentarily with a screwdriver or similar tool to see if there is still refrigerant inside the system. Keep your head/eyes/skin clear of the charge port as liquid refrigerant can cause severe “burns”. There should be any (liquid refrigerant) in the low side part of the system, but just as a precautionary sake.
If the clutch engages, and you determine there is refrigerant in the system by venting a bit while depressing the valve stem, then you know that at least the AC system is partially functioning.

 

how do I check if the ac clutch engages?

 

It could also be one of your blend door actuators may need to be replaced

 

The black “cover” (circled in pic) at the front of the compressor will start moving with the pulley. When the clutch coil is energized with electricity, it pulls the clutch inwards against the compressor pulley, and they then turn as one entity. The clutch circuit usually has refrigerant pressure switch(es) which prevent the clutch from engaging if the refrigerant pressure is too low (low charge of refrigerant), or too high (overcharge of refrigerant, condenser fan not working resulting in excessive refrigerant pressures, etc). Also, typically there is a thermostat in series with the clutch circuit that disengages the clutch when the evaporator reaches freezing temps. Not sure how the AC circuit is on the Tundra, but it can get more complicated than that if there is a separate “computer” for the AC system, etc.

 

that’s what my brother mentioned to me also. I looked those up how to replace them and it looks hard. I don’t wanna mess with that yet. I’m gonna check if there is Freon in the system first.

 

there should be refrigerant in the low side or shouldn’t be?

 

Yes. Refrigerant and refrigerant pressure should exist everywhere in the AC system. The low/pressure side charge port is circled below. This is on my 07 5.7L.

 

so it has pressure. When I took the cap off and pressed it it sounded like I was bleeding air from a tire. Also will. R134a work? Or do I need hfc134a?

 

can I just buy a can of ac pro and do it that way or do you recommend doing it the right way with gauges and a vacuum pump?

 

Haha! As an engineer and former mobile HVAC design manager, I would say having the proper equipment and skills is the right way to go.
However, in a pinch, necessity is the mother of invention. You can give it a try, and see what happens. Get a kit with gauges and read/follow the instructions. The issue with these cans, is you really have no way of knowing of how much refrigerant is left in the system. Adding refrigerant always runs the risk of overcharging the system which is not good, and of course if you have a leak, the correct way to go is to find it and fix it. I see these kits as a stop gap to get you through the summer, but eventually you’ll be needing to bring it to a pro. I would get a good dye kit as well and add it to the system to see if you can find the leak.
I myself years ago, decided to get a set of good gauges, a vacuum pump, and a 30lb container of R134A to fix my own cars. A small investment that usually pays for itself with one visit to the garage.

 

Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

Since you know what you're doing, here is the AC diagrams.
Might help you help him..
@2010SR5NIC if the clutch isn't turning, there is also clutch relay you could try to replace.
And check your 2 AC fuses as well..

 

I missed your post (#9). HFC134A is R134A. HFC - Hydrofluorocarbon.
The “hissing” sound is that of refrigerant (gas form) being released. This means that you still have refrigerant in the system.
The AC system good actually be just fine as well. My Tundra presently has an issue with the HVAC “flapper” doors. One or more of my servo-motors for my flapper doors are NS, so I can’t direct any air via the HVAC knob. Having said that, with the AC on, it still cools the cab eventually after about 20 mins of driving.

 

I have the blend door issue, when you start the truck you can hear the gears trying to move but can’t. From a few YouTube videos I am assuming my problem is the plastic shaft that connects to the electric drive motor to the drive gear is broken, the vent is stuck in the defrost position which I can get AC through it will cool the cab of the truck but not efficiently.

you are right the job is a pain in the ass that I don’t think the problem is that pressing I only drive the truck about 50 miles a week. There are a few YouTube videos on doing the job without removing the dash

Forum member Danny3737 has done the job

 

mine doesn’t have any noise. I just recharged it with a can and it seemed to work. Ac is cold now so we will see how long that lasts.

 

I can’t post a video for some reason but I just checked and that black piece you told me to look at does spin when the ac is on so I just recharged it to the green on the gauge on the can and the ac is cold so we will see how long that lasts. When I released the trigger the needle on the gauge didn’t move so I assume that means I don’t have a leak.

 

Good to hear. Time will tell. My sis and her husband did what you did last year (Hyundai Santa Fe), but had their local mechanic “top it up”. It lasted a month. It all depends how bad the leak is. Could be as simple as an o-ring leaking to a compressor shaft seal, to a corroding tube in the evap or condenser coil.
The other thing that happens is that each time there is a refrigerant leak, there is also some compressor oil that leaks out as well. “Topping it up” repeatedly will eventually cause the oil level to get to a level too low for the compressor to operate, unless some oil is added back into the system.

 

Just watched a new vid from the TCCN where he had to rip out the ENTIRE dash of a Lexus RX350 to replace a servo-motor that was NS. Unbelievable!

 

yep! Same in the tundra. Whole dash has to come out.

 

the recharge can I got says it has oil in it also so hopefully that helps lube it up.