What have you done to your 2nd gen Tundra today?

How many miles when that spring broke?

 

143k

 

Put new pads and rotors on all four corners Friday, all was good until last night . Started hearing a slight rub sound. Thought maybe brakes were still "bedding". LOL, nope. Picked up someone's lost spinner bait somehow on my way back from a trip to the lake. Somehow wedged itself in on the backside near the brake and dust shield.

 

What were the symptoms? Dead cylinder?

 

Yes, 0 compression. Got lucky, it didn't dropped the valve into a cylinder.

 

$519.95.
With all tax and shipping $590.57

So far the gauge has been the same. Slightly under the middle mark

 

After doing a bit of research online and looking at some pricey Carhartt seat covers, I came across this Dickies Pro Grade at Walmart and decided to give it a shot. Honestly for $32, it’s a great fit and does what it’s supposed to do!

 

I'm gonna check into these.

I actually hate my (p)leather? seats in my 21.

They harder than a wedding prick and don't breath like the seats in my 08.

 

Got an early start today and washed/clayed and sealed my 07 CM. Was going to try and get a coat of wax on today but just too much for the old bod.. Tomorrow a nice coat of Carnuba and I'll be set for a while. Dam, not as young as I used to be.

 

Before I started to rebuilt the CV axles I noticed something. The aftermarket clamps are not as wide. I'm concered for two reasons.

1. The pressure distribution would be narrower which means a high chances of grease flinging out
2. It could potentially cut into the new boot

So I see 117.5 and 38 OETPAT. I called Toyota and they want $17 for each clamp. Fuck that.

I've searched around and can't seem to find any. Do yall know where I could order some?

 

I'm only guessing, but would it be safe to assume that those numbers are the Inside Diameter of the clamps? How wide are they?

 

Yeah I did a little more digging and the clamps are 117.5mm and 38mm. Very specific and because of that I don't want to just use some generic clamp. I might just have to order from Toyota...well I might have to order the 38mm one because I found a 117.5mm clamp here

https://belmetric.com/clamp-9mm-band-stepless-ear-oetiker-167-stainless/?

 

Well I ordered them from Toyota.

In the meantime, I'd going to just rebuild the CV axles with what they came with and if they end up slinging grease, then all I have to do is refill the boots and put on the OEM clamps when they arrive.

 

I'm sorry man, I had to step away for something. I was going to post these links for you:
https://www.mcmaster.com/52545K122/
https://www.mcmaster.com/52545K83/

 

Well I just ordered some of those. I called Toyota and canceled my previous order. Thanks for the info!

 

Sure, I hope that they're more like what the OEM ones are like, dimensionally. That's why I was curious about the width...

 

I never install the inner clamp. Cintripital force caused the grease to naturally migrate to the big end. I'd rather the boot slide a bit during turns and max flex. I'm fine with a small amount of seep.

 

Alright. So here's my review of those clamps. Because they are adjustable, you really have to be careful with how much force you use. I broke a couple of them so I'm glad that I ordered enough.

When moving the ring in, you have to flatten on of the smaller tabs or else the ring will pop off when you start to tighten it. If that sounds confusing let me know and I'll provide some more pictures.

I'll install the axle on the truck tonight when it's cooler and I'll take it for a run. Hopefully the clamps keep all the grease in. Worst case scenario, I'll install the OEM ones tomorrow once they arrive.

As for quality, the OEM ones are heavier and thicker.

 

Why did NO ONE tell me that rebuilding the CV axle and replacing the LCAs would be so much fun?

Took 12 hours and most of that time I was cussing and trying to install the pressure clamp on the boot. So much fun. I just took her for a test drive and the clamps are holding up.

I have no idea how people get the OEM 109mm clamp on the inner boot. My neighbor and I tried for 3 hours. She's scheduled for an alignment today.

 

if you had asked I would've told you it wasn't worth it but I'm glad its all back together, hopefully those clamps hold

 

Went up north this weekend to do work on a camp and after two rainstorms truck was covered in water from gravel roads. After two power washes, full synthetic clay and some quick wax. Also did my first oil change because the dealer is a month out.

Before

After

Also found some paint flaking I will have to do something about.

 

You went and removed the protective layer of dirt and now your paint is flaking! Cause and effect as I see it.

 

Yesterday I did a maintenance wash on the 07 and topped it off with a nice layer of Carnuba. I had washed, clayed and put sealer on last week and now it's ready for winter if we ever get a winter . Today I'll do a deep dive into the interior, which isn't bad at all, and I can put it to rest for a while. Man, it's a lot of work keeping the beast clean and sharp looking. I've got my appointment for NHO undercoating in Sept., so it will be ready for Pa's. salt patrol.

 

2008 crewmax rear window leak;

Can’t seem to figure out where this is leaking and need to get it sorted.
Anyone know if the rear window has drain holes?

*Not the third brake light, no sunroof.

I’m leaking from the cab corner trim down the side into the truck. Water runs inside in two different streams.

Used a water hose to wet down the entire passenger side. Water comes in between the sheet metal of the cab and goes behind the jack/tools. Steady stream, damprid isn’t helping and things are getting very musty

 

Do you have a sunroof?

 

No sunroof , mid year 2008

 

Water is fickle stuff. Tracking a leak can be complicated. Try getting baby powder and directing it along the edge of the window inside. Probably have to remove the rear panel behind the seats and side molding to get at it. From the outside that pic shows water draining from the roof seam which is how they build trucks now that they don’t have gutters. Gutters were the result of old fashioned pinch welding and how to finish it with structure. Much more refined now. But it doesn’t mean that all the seams are forever good. Climb up and ge fly remove the roof trim along the whole seam and see it as well. Have you bolted on roof rack or anything? The third brake light self drains but easy enough to remove to check just o be sure

 

Gotta be the cab vent.

 

finally took care of my roof which had really bad clear coat failure, dents idk where from, etc living 16yrs under the sun, with no regular waxing not ready to repaint because when i do it will be the whole truck. i went with 8mil hydrophobic, self healing ppf in a carbon fiber pattern. came out great imo. i have two other cars with factory cf roofs and they look similar to the ppf. pretty undistinguishable. happy with the outcome.

 

How did you prep for the vinyl? Assume you removed any peeling clear coat, feathered and sanded smooth the whole roof … did you prime or lay down a coat of paint from a rattle can? Asking because I want to do this “temporary” fix too but was dissuaded by things I read regarding vinyl over failing paint / clear coat.