No Sound from Speaker after Solder Job

So I was recently doing the window regulator/motor assembly on my 2000 Toyota Tundra when the door panel slipped and ripped out the negative terminal on the main door panel speaker. I went ahead and redid the connection and tested it to make sure power was going through it with a multimeter where it read 4 ohms. Everything looked good and I started the truck up again. All of the speakers worked except that door speaker.

Currently I'm running Polk Audio db6501 speakers and tweeters. JL 250/1 Amp and a Stinger capacitor.

FYI I have no idea about anything with car stereos, I just recently purchased the vehicle and I'm just looking for some direction/help with fixing the problem or diagnosing if I blew the speaker. Thanks!

Amp and Capacitor Setup:


Before the job:


After the job:

 

Might be a pain in the ass but you could pull another door speaker and see if works there.
Your solder looks good unless the speaker itself got too hot..

You could also buy some speakers on Amazon, pull one out and test it.
If you didn't end up needing them, return them..

Good luck..

 

I had some time before work to take out the speaker and test it out with a 9V battery. I know it’s not recommended, but wanted to deduce the problem quickly and saving myself from buying a tester set of speakers.

Speaker flexed fine in both polarities, so it’s either a bad power connection on the positive or the connection going from the speaker to the amp or head unit. I guess I got more crap to rip apart.

I’m going to redo the connection on the positive to fully root things out, then move on from there.

I also could be using the multimeter wrong and putting the connections to the speaker and not the power wires, so the speaker was probably just not getting power. I’m not the most electrically inclined so I think I solved a little bit more of my problem.

 

https://kaiweets.com/blogs/news/how-to-test-speaker-output-with-multimeter

 

Check the rest of the wire with cont meter. You may have broken the wire where you can't see.

 

I tested the terminals with the multimeter and was reading 0 ohms, so I clipped the connections where the speaker wire might be kinked and tested it with a multimeter again on the bar speaker wire which read around 9-10ohms.

Looks like I’m good to go, again, correct me if I’m wrong I’m a total newbie at this. Tomorrow I’ll wire everything back up!

 

Just to confirm, the wires from the terminals on the speaker to the voice coil of the speaker are intact?

As AgileTundra mentioned, checking the entire speaker wire for continuity would suss out whether or not there's a break in the wire somewhere. Sounds like you cut your speaker wire where there was possibly a break and tested for continuity and got 9-10 ohms? If so all should be good.

 

I did everything yall said and checked continuity of each wire to the crossover. Turns out I had a loose wire which was held in by a screw, so I tightened it down and the continuity of that wire went from 30 ohms back to 1. Plugged the speaker back in and we’re back to having audio on the driver’s side!

 

Excellent glad to hear you're back in business! Cheers to the weekend!