3" Lift For 2014 SR5

Hey everyone, I drive a 2014 SR5 and really dislike the current rake. Unfortunately, I do not have much of a budget to spend on a lift. I was thinking about doing Bilstiens 5100s all around. I know at the max setting that only gives you 2.28" inches in the front. Is there anyway I could hit around 3" in the front while still using these struts. I would add a 1" shackle in the back. If I were to do 3" in the front is there any other modifications I would need to do to ensure longevity?

Are spacers really that bad, the only time I really do any off roading is when I am hunting.

Thank You

 

Spacers will give you the lifted look without the benefits of upgraded suspensions. I had a 2.5" spacer puck on my 2014 SR5 for about 6 months. Gave me the look but still stock suspension. Upgraded the suspension and removed the spacer and got a huge upgrade in how the truck feels and rides. Not sure about getting 3" off 5100's might have to look at other options.

As for other parts, you might need new UCAs for alignment and a diff drop. Im sure other will chime in shortly with much more knowledge.

Welcome!

 

Unfortunately budget lifts usually give budget results.
To answer your question, companies like toytech and coachbuilder make top plate spacers that will add modest lift but you will also have a considerably stiffer ride to deal with. The other issue, Toyota trucks seemingly start to suffer premature wear on parts once they are lifted above that 2.5" mark which can be mitigated with new UCA's and a carrier bearing drop kit but you're going to be in for $500+.
My advice would be stick with the 2.5" which is essentially a level so you won't have to spend extra on dealing with the rear

 

Did you dislike running the spacer?

 

So even with only putting a shim on each side on top of the bilstiens 5100 you think it will be too much for the stock UCA's and Spring?

 

I did. Gave me the level look just with out the performance upgrade. Now I have the level look with he upgrade of better suspensions. Went with Eibach pro stage 2. Was under 1k when I got it.

 

So you have to consider that every stage you go up is preloading the spring a little more and making the ride firmer. I had 5100's on my previous truck which was a Tacoma at the 1.75" setting (not maxed) and eventually ditched them as the stiffness was not worth the appearance.
I went with 6112's as they supply the properly rated spring with the kit as well as considerably larger shock bodies. They're a little more money but worth it if you keep the lift modest (2" and under).
I personally would never do a spacer kit as i still leave the pavement on occasion and they ride like garbage.
My advice would be to just save for a proper suspension lift and consider the entry level lifts not optional.

 

Spacer lifts ride really harsh. You will feel every bump.

 

Is there

So there is nothing you would suggest around this price?

 

Maybe like a rough country 3.5"

 

Why do you need 3” of lift?

do the 5100’s, or fox 2.0 or eibachs (budget allowing) and stick to 2” lift up front, nothing in the rear. That levels your truck like a TRD Pro (gets rid of the rake) and will give you better performance/ comfort when you go down the hunting camp trails.

you also won’t have to get new UCA’s etc

 

Not to mention that UCA's have gone way up in price like everything else. I got my SPC's on sale in 2020 for $450....now they are $750.

 

So

So just go with the 5100's in the front at the top setting? Could I not upgrade the springs down the line to make them less stiff.

 

There have been a couple of threads about how 5100s are only designed for OEM springs.

I went with fox 2.0’s at 1” of lift up front and 5100s in the rear. It suits my needs which aren’t too different from yours, maybe a little more intense in some spots/trips.
If you’re looking for a more comfortable ride with a lift (on somewhat of a budget), I’d look at the eibachs or fox 2.0s for the front and leave the rear alone or get 5100s.

bilstein (5100s, 6112s etc) are digressive shocks, which makes them stiffer until you really get on them. Probably not mobbing hunting trails (if they’re anything like ours).


Edit - but 5100s are substantially better than spacers (pucks / shims)

edit 2 - I tried to save a little scratch and buy some falcons when I knew I really wanted the fox 2.0’s (had them on my old 2014). Blasted the piston through the top of the shock body. Rode like an Amish Uber for about a week until I got the fox (that I should have just done to begin with). “Buy once cry once” applies on multiple tiers of products/ performance/ price

 

We're at the point where were kind of going in circles and i think you'd be better served by investigating/learning what works for your purposes. There is very good information in the suspension section of the forum that will lay out what you should use and why to avoid other problems.
I said it right off the bat in replying to your questions, budget lifts will only give you budget results. You own a nice truck and while at the end of the day you buy what you deem right for you there are very good reasons to spend more than the entry level trash.

 

My seat of the pants opinion is that 5100's ride better on top setting than the spacer lift I took off. May be the old struts, I can't say. Was going to lower back to stock but it seems level with 1-1/2" spacer in back, so I left it alone for now.

 

I think I am going to go with the Bilstein 5100's in the front, at max height it says 2.28" of lift. My back ends measures 39.75" and my front measures 36.5. I would love to be able to eventually add a 1" shackle in the back. With that being said I really don't like the look of rake. What about adding shims on top of the bilstiens in order to get a little more height and to remove the tundra lean?

 

All of these things are doable as have been commented on. But just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should.

Once you start creeping to the 3" lift number, a lot of other things come into play (new UCAs, diff drop, etc.). And all of these things have been discussed not just in this thread, but in the forum ad nauseam. They also add cost to your project and you've indicated you are trying to stay within a budget - which there is nothing wrong with. Multiple suggestions have been made that will keep you within a modest budget, that will outperform your stock setup (given your usage parameters), and remove the "rake" as well. Yet you keep insisting on this 3" thing.

Like everything in life, any opportunity to spend money falls within 3 parameters: 1. Good; 2. Cheap/inexpensive; 3. Fast/quick; Pick 2