Issues after oil change.

Just swapped oil last night. Mobil 1 5w30 as always at 5k. Put on a oem filter. I put 6 ounces of seafoam in the crank case at the store and drove it 2 miles to my house before changing the oil. As I did when I bought the truck.

Started the truck and it bogged hard like jumping from 600 to 1500 over and over a few times so I shut it off. Turned it back on and it ran fine. Drove it a couple miles and noticed the engine is now shuddering. In park, drive with the brake on, reverse slowly or with the brake and in drive up to 40mph. It's not the same shudder I was diagnosing before. It feels like a fuel issue.

I cleaned the MAF and Throttle body today and no change. Plugs and coil packs were swapped last summer oem coppers and denso pack.

Not sure what else to do besides the fuel filter. I've owned the truck almost 2 years and don't know when it was last done. Truck is at 141k and I bought it with 134k.

I ran the obd2 and nothing came up

 

There's no fuel filter in the '05-'06.

EDIT: Not sure the fuel trim discrepancy is saying anything, so nixing my previous comment.

Have you disconnected the negative batt cable for 10mins, since you did clean the MAF (hopefully with MAF cleaner, specifically) and the TB (hopefully with TB cleaner, specifically)?

Check all your vacuum hoses?

 

Yeah I've been checking over all lines everything looks fine. Not sure why it bogged on first start after the oil change and am not sure what's causing the rough running. I'm driving to Bremerton Thursday to get my canopy window replaced hope it drives alright, roughly 6 hrs round trip. I've had the motor mounts and everything inspected multiple times while chasing down the last wobble.

 

Any codes pending?

Just for shits n giggles, I'd pull the negative batt cable (after checking for pending codes) for 10 min and force the ECU to unlearn.

I highly doubt putting seafoam in your crankcase has anything to do with what you're experiencing. I've been using it in my crankcases for decades w/o issues. I'm sure it's coincidence.

Nothing is reading weird, though? Like all needles in the dash are alright, oil pressure is dead center?

 

No oil pressure has always bounced around, at idle it stays at the 1st hash mark and changes depending how I'm driving. I asked about it here and everyone said it was normal. No check engine codes or pending codes nothing on the dash I reset the maintenence light for the oil. I'm gonna disconnect battery now.

Same with the seafoam I'm just being paranoid.

 

Oil pressure is here during idle and bounces between here and the half way mark when driving.

 

Will wait 20 mins and see if there is a difference.

 

Time for an Italian tune up????

 

Neighbor across the street did that and it messed up one of the injectors, burnt up the motor. Dealer felt bad for him and took that truck in on trade for a new one. It was not a Tundra. I have known of four trucks that stuff has messed up the motors on. I will never use it. Hope you get it figured out. All the best.

 

Lmao I can easily do that if deposits need to be burned off. I live in the boons off a 60mph road so I usually pull out and floor it. Just didn't wanna drive the piss out of it if it's going to cause harm..

 

Driving it now. No change. Not sure what's next. Vaccume pressure test?

 

Did you actually drain the oil and not the trans fluid? What does your dip stick read for engine oil?

 

Lol



Just ran into these guys on my drive. Screen shot of a vid

 

Just making sure, it hasn’t been the first time

 

Just got home after 26 mins and 13 miles. No change. No codes pending or otherwise. Using elm327 code reader. Going to take it to a shop for a ride along this weekend. But i gotta drive it 300 miles to Bremerton Thursday.

 

All good oil line is an 8th inch below the top dot.

 

Where'd the coil packs and sparkplugs come from?

Amazon/ebay/etc. sell fakes all the time.

Need a known good source, like a local parts store, summit racing or rock auto.

 

They're from rock auto

 

For one thing, those elk were girls not guys.

And I have no idea how you concentrate on the code reader results with those ads screaming at you from the bottom of the page...

But, if I'm reading this right, the only thing you did before the lurching was change the oil, right? All the other work you're talking about was long enough ago that it'd be pretty suspicious if it just all of a sudden got this bad, all at once, as soon as you started it back up after an oil change?

So you drove to the parts store, bought oil, poured in seafoam, drove it home. Everything working as it should. You drained the oil, new filter, refilled. Started it back up. Surging, fumbling idle out of nowhere?

 

Don't fall for the thirst trap man



Yeah I changed the oil and it jumped rmps on start from idle to like 1500 a few times it didn't show signs of settling out so I shut it off let it sit for 20 secs and started again now it feels like I'm about to run out of gas all the time. A straight engine shake. Could I have clogged the injectors with the seafoam? I put the seafoam in a warm crank case and drove maybe a mile or two home. Then changed the oil while the engine was hot. After it drained out I poured a single quart of fresh oil through the system as a flush. Let it all drain and then filled 6.5qts.

Started the truck went a couple miles came home and added as needed to the right mark. Shit has been stuttering since.

 

I'll replace the injectors ASAP if needed I just want it to go back to normal lol.

 

Something about it leaves the injector open the best I can remember?? Particles get stuck in there???

 

Wait ... I thought you put the Seafoam in the crankcase? You put it in the gas tank? (Got confused b/c you said "oil change" and seafoam)

How full was the tank when you added the Seafoam? Even if it only had 1/4 tank, there's no way it would've taken action that fast, it wouldn't have knocked loose stuff in multiple injectors.

There shouldn't/wouldn't be any particulate in the injectors. Think about it. There's a sock on the pump that would filter out anything large enough to clog an injector. And if it was a deposit that somehow got knocked loose off a fuel line, the Seafoam would've blasted through it.

Seafoam is just a highly refined petroleum product, like high octane gas. It's not some snake oil type thing. Don't buy the hype that it's at fault. But if you're in question, dump the tank and go back to normal gas (bad gas would do this too, btw.)

 

The can is 16oz

I put 6 ounces in the crank case and 10 ounces in the gas tank. It had between a quarter and half full gas. I got a full tank of shell after the oil change because of the shutter. Gas station is a mile away. Tank is full right now. I'm not really worried about the seafoam as I've been using it all my life. I've just never had this happen after an oil change. I've never even had a car run like this unless I forgot to plug back in the maf or accidentally unplugged a vacuum hose. This is probably close to my 20th vehicle in my life. I used to build e30s before they got expensive.

Not sure where to go on diagnosing procedure from here. Vacuum pressure test?

 

Yeah, there's no way it kicked in that fast. There's something else going on.

Does your exhaust smell any different? Rich, lean? You sure the oil you used was legit, and you didn't accidentally grab the jug of used oil off your shelf, or at the store? (I honestly doubt that'd do it either, I suspect ignition issue, but that's just me)

 

No smells and it's Mobil 1 high mileage 5w30. Was golden new.

 

Timing is good? Belt not about to snap?

It's also possible your fuel pump is shitting the bed, check the pressure?

 

I'll have to look up how to do so or have it done if it's not doable personally. Belts fine. Was replaced at 121k in oct 2020 with the water pump. Previous owner had 7k in receipts from the Portland toyota for 2020 alone. Had both diffs and trans flushed. I had the front diff flushed last year when they did the driver side needle bushing. I had it checked last year when it was in for carrier bearing and wobble diagnosis. Timing seems fine.

It feels kinda like if you were holding the brake with your left foot and setting up a take off with rpms with the right foot and the engine is shaking side to side. Maybe fuel pump like you said. I'll look into it.

 

I am going through the history now. Says check engine light was on in 2022 for air fuel.

Also what's weird is the paper work says timing belt at 124k but the casing was never updated and says 89k.

Also found the blower bearing is out and never fixed.

I looked at this when I bought it but forgot most.

 

I wouldn't doubt if it's upstream O2 also, but you'd need to wait for it to pop a code. I can't remember if, in these trucks, you can disco the upstream and the engine will still run or not.