General Supercharger Thread

Ok ok we don't have to start sizing each other up. Haha
And here I thought 7 was decent enough...

 

Hmm… lol

 

I come here for shit like this.

I will award this post 1500 internet credits.

Kudos.

 

I cannot claim meme creation credit, only retrieving the meme from the great depths of the interwebs. Follow me for more stolen memes.

 

Yes we need to hear that little blowing screaming please!

 

What's the benefit & how much does it cost?

 

More boost lol

 

Up to another 2- 2.5psi. Usually get a larger water pump pulley so it doesn't spin too fast. ASP still has some Tundra larger water pump pulleys on the shelf. $75-100. You gotta call as their not listed on website.

 

I have seen 11.x on the 2.3mm, average 9-10 (at 1k feet elevation) between going to this & the 2.2 I'm playing with fire no?

 

When I went from 2.2 to 2.0 pulley it was right at 2psi increase. @snivilous pulley chart was spot on.

 

That's the connecting rods under load! Haha... that still cracks me up.

 

Not much difference between a smaller supercharger pulley and a larger crank. You debatably have to worry about overspinning other things if you do the crank pulley, but at the benefit that you don't have to worry as much about belt slip on the supercharger pulley.

 

Big thanks to Viktor! I got my bigger reservoir & I am sure the inlet/outlet diameter is ok since it was in his gazillion HP rocket!

 

Affirmative, I had one on my Tacoma, will work nicely

https://www.cxracing.com/coolant-aluminum-tank/CT-IB-S

 

Does anyone know the approximate capacity for BTU rejection for the front mount intercoolers in most of these SC kits, or know how to calculate it? Couldn’t really find any specs looking around. Googling says they often range from 6,000 to 20,000btu. I’d like to find out what the frozenboost one is also, and maybe compare them all to a remote Derale electric fan powered unit.

 

I refuse to use BTUs, my thermal units must be 'Murican!!!!

lol

 

If “ATUs” were a thing I would use them! Lol at this time BTUs are the most widely used unit of heat energy around these parts, unfortunately.

 

Who needs Long Tubes...guy on the TX tundra FB group selling NIB SS JBA Long Tubes for $400 north of Dallas, TX.

I

 

First run with a TRX this morning, on the race track. First was on a roll, he jumped me and i stuck to him pretty damn good. Second time I jumped and he sat back. This was on a fresh tune in T/H. Was impressed on how the Tundra did not get annihilated. Also my shit ass patched up exhaust probably scared him since it's shitty and loud currently

 

Good price! I would cut off the air injection tubing and plug em up and only have one like the arh.
Would make em easier to install.

 

That boy is strong!

 

I think you really can't get more 'Merican using BTUs.

"Tons" of cooling capacity is about as 'Merican you can get...just saying.

 

I was mainly wondering the cooling capacity of the FMIC cause this puppy here will do 22,000btu/hr and it’s not that large and draws minimal amps. There’s also a way smaller one that does 6,000. It also won’t heat soak so badly when there is no airflow when you’re stuck in traffic or idling due to the fan. It could even be installed and piped back to under the bed or something. Being an air cooled “dry cooler” you’re never going to get better than several degrees over ambient on the fluid temp, but that would be pretty amazing to get it within 10-15 degrees or so. I have to measure my HX fluid temp one of these days. https://derale.com/product-footer/f...nt-cooers/atomic-cool/cooler-kit/15850-detail

 

British Thermal Units.

I was joking.

 

Update on my truck that was experiencing fuel pressure loss…

truck is great now with the Prospeed fuel upgrade and fuel pump hardwire. Hopefully on my last revision, holding around 11 AFR at WOT.. just hate that it has extended crank now. My next chase is why my whine is non existent with a 2.30” pulley… but she’s rippin now

 

Semi-useless ponderment*.


My IAT has a delta of 31degrees (Harrop sensor).

does not matter the outside ambient or weather.

at 20 degrees - 31 degree delta.
at 95 degrees - 31 degree delta.

it is dead nutz consistent.

That's amazing to me. One would think the delta would decrease as the ambient temp went down. nope.

all this talk about additional cooling and none of these monstrous physical factors affect my temp:
rain
cold
speed (well, sitting still raises the temp)


the rain is the kicker...you would think that would near instantly bring the temp down.....nope.

I can see how if you cooled the cooly liquid before a run, but that's not effective for daily driving.


My cooly juice temp is directly correlated to the radiator water temp....directly.





*keep in mind, I'm way up here in the cheap seats of the stadium, shouting down at y'all that are actually on the field.

 

Extended crank is frustrating. What injectors are you running? Did they wire in a "prime" cycle to the fuel pump so it runs for a second when you turn on the key?

 

Yeah, it’s rather predictable for me as well. If there was an additional heat exchanger for rejecting the heat that effectively doubled the heat rejection capacity of the intercooler loop then we could get the HX fluid that much closer to ambient temp. As it sits now, the HX fluid is so much warmer than the ambient that it’s heating up the intake air 30+ degrees as it goes across the blower intercooler. This probably means the HX fluid itself might be a good 50-60 degrees warmer than ambient at any given time. If we could get the fluid down to say 30 degrees over ambient by adding in more heat rejection capacity, we could wind up with IATs consistently only 15-20 degrees over ambient. Even dropping it 15 degrees offsets the heat from 1 extra psi of boost. Less heat, less knock potential, less likely to butt the tight ring gaps under sustained boost = happier engine. More power too?

I know we could accomplish this other ways, but I’m looking for a low maintenance passive cooling system upgrade that doesn’t need monitoring or topping off. Just get in a drive!

 

Put an electric pusher fan in front of the heat exchanger, that would bring down the temp a bit closer to ambient.