Bmf's brake borking

Went to change my master cylinder today with the help of @JakeJake and Dale. Everything went fine until it didn't. MC came off fairly easy, but revealed a deeper problem. The seal between the MC and brake booster was torn up.



No biggie, Jake says they have one at the salvage yard so we head that way. I pick up the MC and BB just cause, and a TB cover cause it was there. About $50 for all of it. We also eyeball the motor in the tundra, and the axle in the sequoia. Making plans and whatnot.

We get the MC and BB replaced, and I still have no pedal. We need to start the truck and build vacuum. My battery is dead. I pull my work truck up and we let it charge and it starts after about 20-30 minutes. Pedal doesn't stiffen up after a few presses so we figure it's air in the system. I shut the truck off after running for maybe 2-3 minutes. Fucking stupid ass.

So me and Jake set out to bleed the brakes while letting Ironman charge off the WT. We can't get the mightyvac to keep vacuum on the lines so we go manual mode. My pass rear backing plate is caked in oil. We're not sure if it's brake juice or 75w90. I'm about 90% sure it 75w90. Again. Fucking AGAIN AGAIN.

Anyways, we get a ton of air and very little juice out of the pass rear, and good juice out of the prop valve. Driver rear bleeder stripped out. 10mm wasn't snug enough, 9mm and 3/8 didn't fit. Cresent wrench finished it. Jake may have a better recollection of this as he was under there.

We say fuck it and move to the fronts. I went to grab the 8mm and go under the rear of the pass front. "Why the fuck are my bellows and CV boots wet? Why is there a puddle on the ground? .......oh shit." We found the leak. My hardline had a crack in the 90 turning down.



I noticed the brake line bracket isn't secured, so I tried to move it. That's when the line started hemorrhaging brake juice. Just for shits and giggles, I asked Jake to watch the line and I went and pushed the pedal. Indont remember exactly what was said, but it was along the lines of "holy shit", followed by laughter. We swap places so I can see it. Wow. That thing shot a solid stream out from the line to the ground. It was impressive. I tried 2 pics to see if I could catch it.





So at this point I knew I needed hard lines and I didn't want this asshole line draining my MC, so I go to bend it to kink it. Big mistake. The line snapped in my fists of ham, and is now gushing fluid out. I tried using my linesman pliers to kink the hard line with no success. We ended up Z kinking the line with bailing wire.






So what were guessing is that the line cracked in AZ. That explains why my undercarriage was a bit wet when we got home, and why my brakes failed after 2 drives. The blown seal in the BB kept it from just blowing all the brake juice out. I guess I had 2 problems and we fixed one. Jake said the the pedal did firm up when I went to grab the mightyvac, so succes on the MC/BB side.

So now I need new hard lines, braided lines f/r, bleeders, and a battery. Jake just sent me the PN for the hardlines, RA has Powerstop braided f/r lines for $75, bleeders are cheap, and a new battery from wallyworld will suffice until I figure out AGM vs Optima or whater works for my situation.

OK then. I think that about sums up my mangling for this episode. Any thoughts, opinions, comments, or stories about how you got drunk and fist fought a 100lb American bulldog cause he was trying to go alpha on you are welcome.

 

Thinking about this we probably should have thrown a socket on it to break it loose, but she was pretty sloppy from the get go. The adjustable nut fucker was NOT the right move!

10/10 looking forward to future mangling misadventures.

 

Go to the jy & pull a whole rear axle. One that the backing plates arent caked.

#manglerofthemonth

 

I recently lost my brakes due to a cracked hardline as well. Was not home or anywhere near an autopart store. Put vicegrips on the softline, and drove on 3 brakes to an autoparts storte and swapped the hardline. bout 2 months later, same thing, other side

 

I have never seen a hardline so brittle. It snapped with and audible crack. Still had the factory coating and everything.

@bmf4069 might be a good idea to replace both sides as cheap as they are.

I think they are different part numbers ill throw them up here in a minute for reference.

 

Front hardline part numbers:

13WL
Driver-47315-0C020
Passenger-47318-0C020

13WE
Driver-47315-0C010
Passenger-47318-0C010

 

They dont make braided lines that get rid of the hardlines?

 

Absolutely both are getting replaced.

I've been pondering just doing braided lines all the way. If nobody objects, I may try it.

 

Sounds like some high quality mangling. Well done brother.

 

Reading your post and kept thinking “downhill”

 

Ya know, I thought my brakes felt a little funny on the trails we were on. Now I know! You get that double cab sorted yet?

 

Between you and me my friend, we have all the mangling covered. Mangling twins for life!

 

Now that the sun is out and the weekends are dry I can start wrenching again but I haven’t done shit on the DC!

 

I haven't done it myself, but I believe it can be done with some first gen Tacoma parts. My main caution would be to have a one piece line secured at the spindle so it doesn't flex around and get near the coil somehow. Also, if you are using hard brake lines, but do not securely fasten the hard line at the junction to the rubber/ ss line on the spindle, it will eventually cause the flares on the hard lines to crack and rattle off at the caliper and leak.

I'm pretty sure this first gen Tacoma part should work to replace both the rubber line and hard line on our trucks, but the supplied banjo bolts won't work.

$56 StopTech (950.44014) Brake Line Kit, Stainless Steel

https://www.amazon.com/StopTech-950-44014-Brake-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0031HN11Y?crid=1CMRHCVECIEQI&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.c6-GlR8nGVhIXnnGuxJH8Q.Ryum5p-Isv96VfMG0qWGVC6IJkyHIDT83-b1mRzLtF8&dib_tag=se&keywords=950.44014&qid=1716608867&s=automotive&sprefix=950.44014%2Cautomotive%2C156&sr=1-1


This should be the right banjo bolt:

$12 Podavelle M10x1.0 Metric Stainless Steel Single Banjo Bolt Brake Fitting Adapter 20mm Long with Copper Washers

https://www.amazon.com/Podavelle-M10x1-0-Stainless-Fitting-Adapter/dp/B0C788PT85?crid=2M8Q6WU8NDWN4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.AdiC70y9-jxZBA_RZE2GRotVO1Cbq5S6JfRfkwg39XBGy3OEi8PVhir3qBYnQSSBZCM6AiCOaVVnGgU2ktvDoH5rsBRmrCH87spnNZf47NyDI3P-wEOFQ4Y1eNjwM9H9OVAV54BtoETBghmIdCqD88AKmSbdxienDiD5BBr4ZH8AWyb-a0n6QKP61TgPPrXCO9wnO_UvtrrSesuL89iicUCYB-K5bcp3d5KF7nFAs3gw7Q4ZhQTmkNYmgIHKnxYIT0AjQsk0UitgOLAjEYS_nER2Dttl9VLknZv7cyyXDY8.LN3Htn5yzDEcGp52rkNMJOYP9jqvLiGX5sAmitpKeuE&dib_tag=se&keywords=m10x1.00+banjo+bolt&qid=1716609269&s=automotive&sprefix=m10x1.00+banjo+bol%2Cautomotive%2C153&sr=1-5&th=1

 

I know why mine broke and kinda had it coming. Disconnected the line junction from the spindle to weld on gussets, and just left em hanging since they didn’t seem to move around too much. It was the slight flex day after day that did it, not a single event.

Somebody does. Alot of the long travel kits come with extended brake lines, typically braided, but there are stock length ones out there somewhere. I remember @Darkness selling a set that he had, back in the day.

 

Interesting. That bolt broke on me too, both sides, and I haven't thought much about it since they don't really move...guess I better go throw some zip ties on em.

 

Yep. BMF's truck is missing the bolt on that side. Im guessing the constant vibration and movement caused the brittle/work hardened condition.

 

Sorry about all that but glad the booster is fixed for about $50. BTW, just picked up an Interstate 27F battery from Costco for $109.99 after $15 core swap.

 

Must be pretty common. Hose clamped mine, they were just Zip-Tied by the PO and I wasn't really confident in them long term. Wetness=FluidFilm.

 

Ah, hose clamp! Brilliant idea.

 

It's been a while since I did that, but I swear the tabs on the spindles were Gone... on both sides, or I would have bolted them back on. Something was a head shaker, going to have to look at it again.

 

I meant to look up the part number on that clamp. I need a replacement for the one on my passenger side which fits loose b/c I made a dumb mistake, and I think is causing a rattle. Once you stretch them out you can’t reduce them again. I’m happy to give you my old one if/when I replace it.

 

Spindle gussets get in the way of those brackets, so we used longer bolts. Might need to double nut 'em for longevity.

 

thx shifty
I can't picture the configuration in my head what those mounts look like (BMFs pic?). I swear they are tabs welded right on the spindle. For some reason my best fix was the hose clamp... WHAO, exactly a year ago today (UBJ job), that's when I rebuilt that line. 2023 05 26

 

I was talking about this collar clamp up here.

​

Here's a bigger shot of my '06, looks almost like the later year have it cast into the knuckle.

​

 

And it appears the bracket/clamp I'm talking about is part of the ABS/WS sensor, so it looks like I won't be able to buy it separately

I re-installed that clamp in a fatter section of the knuckle and it stretched it out. When I noticed the mistake, I moved it to the right place and it fits loose. I may just slap some foam on it.

 

I'm gonna do what we do best and hijack this thread for a minute. Can we talk about how the tie rod ends on our trucks always look like they are at an odd angle or not fully seated. Mine are the same way and I had to replace my OEM units after ~35k miles, because the boots were shot. I've noticed others have posted pictures and it looks the same so I don't think it's necessarily wrong.

 

You could try buying Moogs instead and swapping them out under their limited lifetime warranty.

These also would be nice if Jeeperf made them for our trucks…seems to be only 2nd gen and above.
https://www.jeeperf.com/product-page/toyota-tacoma-height-adjustable-tres

 

Is that because (like in shifty's pic) the susp is at full flaccid hang?
How does it look just sitting normal, it's got to lose some of that angle.

 

Tre angle is about the same as lca angle. One of the reasons the steep lca's are a bad idea.