What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

And I mean how many coats paint wise, phrased that wrong lol. And would I be able to do it without removing the cover or would you recommend removing the cover?

 

Scuff then prep wipe then a couple of coats untill your satisfied.

I like wax and grease remover or denatured alcohol for the prep.

I used a can of rustoleum rubberized undercoat that I had on hand. If I were to do it over again I would use SEM trim paint or VHT wrinkle finish.

Edit: remove them for a way better finished product

 

So 320 grit, scuff, prep with wax/grease remover/denatured alcohol, and then a couple of coats with sem trim paint?

 

And I also want to do the little trim around the wheel wells. Would it be the same process?

 

Today I looked at my truck.

Ball joints arrived. Mower is back in action.

 

Curious the implications of the sealing he does around the windshield on future windshield replacement. I didn't look at what he was using for sealant. Something black...

I have one small visible rust spot from a rock chip along my windshield gasket. Plenty of other rusted rock chips but this one worries me more because it goes slightly under the gasket. Would like to peel things back and sand them down but since part of it is visible outside the gasket I don't think his sanding and black rust inhibitor method is quite right for my situation but...it feels more manageable than other methods I've read for fixing all the rock chips our trucks accumulate.

Anyway two thoughts I'm having. One, what do people think about his windshield sealing methods, and two, what have people done for rock chips that have rusted?

 

Thankfully, it wasn't your pants. I hope.

Can't recommend watching that video enough. 90% chance it's going to be one of two things IMO: Either ....

A) The top-of-windshield seal, which you can easily diagnose by laying a clear piece of packing tape (even with the trim installed) that spans from the roofline to the glass, creating a "bridge" over the trim. If the leaking stops, you know the problem is probably rust or failed sealand where the windshield meets the body/frame.

B) One of the A-pillar trim pieces he's pointing at that in the pic I captured. Likely the top one. I think that may be next in line for me, to pop those out and re-seal them.

Trick to that is this: Get a group of things you need together to order. Most places will ship to you for free over $75 with the coupon "FREESHIP". This dealer, specifically, typically does near-Ourisman pricing, but last I checked, they don't charge tax and respect the FREESHIP coupon 24/7/365.

Think through it: Oil filters for the next few oil changes. Diff and oil drain plug washers. Cowl parts. PCV valve. Radiator cap. Rear diff breather. Missing any bolts? These are the kinds of things you can add-up quickly to hit $75. You may find Monday being a nat'l observation day, they may start a sale or something, so it could be a good time to buy.

I've used this stuff in the past, it's $13 a tube on scAmazon. LAPS has plenty of Permatex black sealants. Other thing I've used is "flowable" sealant, which is usually clear. Great for windshields (both of these are if you clean the channel/surface thoroughly and aren't applying directly onto rust). Flowable is nice because it'll get into the crack, and continue to flow down to seal deeper.

Rusted rock chip: Exactly what I've done here, but pic below also.

Naval Jelly (a Loctite product), because it'll get into the crack/notch where paint meets metal and clear it out.
Apply for their recommended 10 minutes, I like to use a cotton swab or acid brush for larger areas.
Rinse after alloted time; are you at bare metal? If no, repeat 1-2 more times and you should be.
Once at bare metal, aggressive rubbing compound paste, I prefer No.7
Clean again.
Dry thoroughly.
Apply your touch-up paint just enough to cover the area; re-coat 2x or 3x within the designated re-coat window on your paint.

​

 

Sweet, thanks.

I completely agree on how to buy stuff. Problem is that I've realized I need some bolts, or grommets, multiple times over the last few weeks. So I've already used your strategy of stocking up on filters, thinking of other bolts I need etc. I'm currently out of ideas for what I should stock up on to make an order worth it!

I'll definitely look into that rock chip repair. is the process I've been looking at, and while I feel up to it, it's definitely not something I can do anytime soon. It's involved, and ideally involves a garage.

 

Finally got around to vacuum bleeding the rear brakes and valve. Also greased 5 grease fittings on the drive shaft. Pushed out some nasty old grease. No idea the last time it was done.

 

My under-tail-light fix shown was never intended to be permanent, only stopgap back in 2019. Same as the front paint gouges from the rock deflector I pulled off. But both of them have now held up for 5 years with no signs of problem, using the method I outlined. Here’s some pics of the big gouge of hood paint with light on it so you can see deeply. I could clean this up with a flat blade perpendicular to the paint to knock it down, then buff, but you can’t even see it from 3-4’ away so, like, not sure of the point. Don’t overthink your issue bro. Just do it right once.

​

 

So this is coming soon*. Just not today. Gotta get the dust vacuumed out and maybe a light cleaning, maybe a couple weeks from now, and put it in the sun to iron out. Thanks again to @jerryallday for the keen eyes and awesome service with getting it pulled, boxed and shipped! The hunt is over, for now.

​

 

The part that has me stumped is I called the windshield guy back out to fix the leak and he couldn't replicate it. I thought it was the top seal as well.

 

Where is your mic again? Just curious.

I'm curious if water could be entering from somewhere else and traveling forward or sideways to get to that spot.

 

I’m almost certain mine is the windshield and not that clip you posted yesterday.
Were you doing a PHM and painting those side trim pieces? How easy do they come off?

 

I think PHM's method of using ProtectoWrap over the hole would work nicely assuming the fasteners are "cup" style like the cowl, i.e. the screw hole isn't open-ended on the backside. Sealant like he was using on the cowl is a great option also, if not open-back.

How hard to remove the trim? For yours being outside the rust belt, it's as easy as what you see at 8:07 in this video. This should auto-jump to the removal spot if you're on a computer vs. mobile. Obviously his was horrible b/c he needed to drill a bolt, but ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2RZkZNPNcPM#t=8m07s​

 

Weird never seen buckling on the floor. Think you could use the hook and loop kit holding it down. Check their vids.

 

And Serra sale now for added 20% off.

 

Installed some Wet Okole covers for the front seats. Perfect fit as always. Mind you, my seats are in perfect condition so the covers are to keep them that way. I wanted something waterproof to repel the sweat and dirt from hikes and trail runs here in AZ. These definitely fit the bill.

 

I literally pulled it out of a 20x20x26 box before taking this pic. I'm letting it settle. I'll drop it in the sun for an hour or two when I can get a really hot day in the near future.

 

Got it ...those are wrinkles from being rolled up. Yep. Likely it will settle down in a little. So cool you have one now!

 

Same.

It's right where the driver a pillar meets the headliner and windshield. It's technically on the headliner.

 

Wonder if it's running from the 3rd brake light forward across the headliner?

Logic would dictate, if you don't see any cracks in the seam sealer along the roof, and there's no tears in the foam seals around the doors, it's coming from the top of windshield or a-pillar though.

 

I honestly don't know who I'd be if I wasn't overthinking things...just the way I operate. But it's alway worth spending the time to distinguish between 'hack job' and 'if you aren't a pro this is a perfectly acceptable way to do it' kind of approaches, know what I mean?

Today I realized I'm sort of screwed when it comes to replacing the grease plug on the rear driveshaft slip yoke of my Tacoma unless I can find one in a local junkyard, and there don't appear to be any. Not a huge deal but I really want to reduce the list of "oh and there's also this thing going on" as much as possible for the sale.

Seems like an uncommon issue, but with the accepted method on this forum for lubing the slip yoke, I think people need to be cautious not to overfill the cavity. Could build pressure and blow out the grease plug, and there aren't great replacement options.

But I did get a new cv axle on without much trouble. Just an extra trip to the store. When I replaced the driver side cv a few years back with a NAPA part, I bought a 36mm socket, since that was the axle nut size. So I have a 35mm (OEM), a 36mm for NAPA part...but this latest NAPA axle was a 40mm. I mean damn. Felt really lucky that OReillys had one on the shelf. Needed both a $13 socket and an $8 1/2" to 3/4" drive adaptor. Never had a 3/4" socket before...

Next owner will have another thing to someday curse me for.

 

Motherfecker! I forgot to order the damn Hilux bunpstoos! Aaaarrrgggg! Dammit.

(4830635110 is the p/n - EDIT: looks like you gotta order from Amayama or PartSouq for genuine OEM, or take your chances with fleaBay sellers)

 

Is the seam sealer the gutter rubber? That stuff is cracked pretty bad

 

Nah. Seam sealer is like “metal caulk”. It’s what auto manuf’ers use to fill the gaps between panels. Like, if you’ve ever looked at the floor pan of a vehicle where it meets the doors, like there’s caulk at that seam, that’s seam sealer. It usually is rigid, not flexible. It can crack, and when it cracks it leaks. That happening, and bulb seals around doors getting ripped are both common leak points for vehicles.

 

I recently filled the 1st gen Taco bed with trees & dirt. Blew the remnants out twice. Last night in prep to move some nice furniture, I cleaned the (plastic) liner with water & scrub broom, then pulled out the liner, & tailgate liner & access cover. Amazing how much dirt gets under those plastic liners & into the tailgate. All washed, all leaf blower dried, rag dried, Sprayed the couple wear spots on the wheel arches, put it all back together.
Story told as a suggestion to do the same before you install the carpet if it's been awhile since you've been under your plastic liner. (I think that's a plastic liner I see in your picture.)

 

Good eyes, it is. I didn't have time to pull it, gotta jump on a plan today and will be out of pocket for a minute, so I didn't have time to unclamp the shell and slide it back to pull the liner. Then I need to find a new home for the liner, after it lives for a while on the side yard to kill off weeds.

 

washed the truck this morning and the V8 emblem fell off with little force. Any reccomendations on how to clean off the old glue and what kind of glue to use to put it back on?

 

Wd40 for removing the old glue