Turbo Charging A Tundra!

That sleeve of heat wrap is so nice! Game changing, honestly. I am finally looking at the photos better on a larger screen, and I do have to say that @TurboKits.com has an impressive continuous process improvement mentality. Lots of small tweaks in those photos, down to strategic reinforcement of the packaging. Great job, Jesse, and looking forward to watching the progress @Jego

@Jego Where you planning on installing the water/meth tank at the front or rear of the bed? If the rear (and only because of my OCD), I'm about to add more spacer behind the bracket to get the tank perfectly vertical. I'll share the sizes once I have it figured out. They'll be different due to the shape of the bed side.

 

It really came very well packaged. Check this photo with all out of the box:



I got the stock map file and sent it to Jesse.



The ECU can't be read. But the software recognize that and set the stock map file from HPTuner repo.




For the water/meth tank I ordered a molle for the driver side of the bed. I will install it in the same spot you installed It. Here is the link:

Putco Truck Bed Molle Panels - Driver Side Panel Fits Toyota Tundra 2014-2021 5'7'' Bed

$218 Putco Truck Bed Molle Panels - Driver Side Panel Fits Toyota Tundra 2014-2021 5'7'' Bed

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09CLT7N5Y

Also, ordered the seal for the oil pan:

Toyota Genuine Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

$21 Toyota Genuine Fluid 00295-00103 Formed-in-Place Oil Pan Gasket - 3 oz. Tube

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDDTV0

An oil drain container is also another thing I needed. Ordered this one:

Chapin 78005 Low Profile 12 Quart (11.4 Liter) Oil Drain Container, fits most ATV's Tractors, Lawn mowers, Motorcycles and Low Clearance Vehicles, Made with Recycled Materials

$29 Chapin 78005 Low Profile 12 Quart (11.4 Liter) Oil Drain Container, fits most ATV's Tractors, Lawn mowers, Motorcycles and Low Clearance Vehicles, Made with Recycled Materials

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N9R6BT1


I went to the Dyno this Saturday but no luck. I have to call tomorrow to see if it will be available during the week. The cost is $85 per hour. No tuning just to get stock performance.

 

That molle panel would have been a nice option. I love the location with the tonneau cover. The convenience of where it is located has already surpassed the inconvenience of figuring out. Zero regrets so far. Those part/item #s being cut out is fantastic, too! The light and amount of space you appear to have is already making me envious.

 

And, before I forget (and before you start posting your much more fun progress photos of getting shit done), update on the Stage 1 tow testing (crawl phase).

BLUF: Stage 1 (turbo & water methanol only) performed absolutely perfect. There: 50 miles, about 1/8 of a tank/gallon of Boost Juice with a peak boost level of 2.6psi, in 5th gear, climbing longer hills. 1/4 tank of fuel consumed. Back: 50 miles, about 2/8 of a tank/gallon of Boost Juice with a peak boost level of 3.9psi, in 5th gear, climbing a very long hill. 1/4 tank of fuel consumed. 4th gear almost never sees positive boost, just holds at 0.0.

Background: Ended up towing about 50 miles to, and 50 miles back from the campground this weekend as part of the crawl phase of my crawl/walk/run tow testing. This was intended to be the first test, but it turns out it was just a formality of socialized and agreed upon plans. For those not aware, earlier last week I went back out to test more to ensure I was staying under 4/4.5psi since previous logs showed 5.6psi on a specific hill. Due to exits and the amount of tests required on the same hill, I actually ended up towing 84 miles. This is why I say the 50 miles was just a formality. Only delta worth mentioning is this tow was def heavier and right at the 8000lbs I typically tow at.

Trip there was fantastic. I had full confidence in the Stage 1 kit from previous testing, however, it was game day, so I was a little nervous. I also had just hooked up the newly mounted 20-row Setrab trans cooler as well. Ultimately, despite being stuck in a horrible speed range due to traffic, I spent the majority of the trip in S5 and was able to motor up the majority of the hills, at about 55mph. Highest boost I saw was 2.6psi on the SCG-1. For the most part, I was running between 2400-2800rpm, with the occasional drop to S4 putting me in the 2800-3400rpm range. S4 saw almost no positive boost, but was very content holding at 0.0 and just cruising back up to speed, regardless of terrain. I ended up at about 7.6mpg and used about 1/8 of a tank (one gallon tank size) of Boost Juice (water methanol mix).

While there, during normal driving around the area, I developed a faint exhaust ticking. I needed to tighten down the v-band clamps again, and a quick email to Jesse got new secondary lock nuts in the mail. We have essentially taken them on/off a few times now and they just weren't holding like they should, so easy fix that was due to my install and then the removal of a few of the bands to replace the flex pipe in the cross-over tube. I'm sharing this because things happen and it's a lesson learned for others.

Return trip was a bit more sporty, but in a good way. Most of the hills I encountered on the way out to the campground essentially became one massive, prolonged incline that had me at 3.9psi, and many, long duration pulls at 2.2-3.9 for nearly a minute at a time. I did end up using S4 a little more, and it repeated its previous performance by dropping boost to neutral at 0.0. The majority of the boost was again in S5 and the RPMs were the a repeat of the trip out. To me, so far, this is the best part, since I would be winding her up to 3700-4300rpm in the past just to hold speed. Fuel nearly matched the trip out at 7.5mpg, and Boost Juice consumption nearly doubled, which make sense because it comes on around 2.0psi and progresses to full flow at 5psi. S4 AFRs were between 10.4 and 10.9 on average. S5 was a little higher, but I wasn't concerned because the water/methanol was spraying, where S4 it wasn't.

All in, I was thrilled with the turbo side of things. The trans cooler I knew was going to be questionable going into it. With that, what I have found is that while I didn't necessarily gain anything on the cooling, I have a ton more consistency. With the 15-row in Genuine Cooling System's location, at highway speeds, in S5, I'd consistently climb to ~215-219 on average - but it would always be a slow climb. Slow down and it would drop to 190-205 on average. With the 20-row in my current location down low behind the bumper bar (just in front of the power steering cooler), slow speed temps were still down around 190-194 on average, and highway temps would get to 215 and just sit there. I'm not even sure if it moved by a degree. So, no harm done, but not overall screaming great benefit at this time, either. Jesse and I have discussed and I'm standing ready to test whatever solution he comes up because I am positive it is the lack of airflow that is holding the 20-row back, and I'd rather not add more electrical if I don't have to (though fans on teh cooler are an option).

Here's a quick snapshot of the logs and Injector Duty Cycles. As a reminder, I'm currently less worried about top end performance right now since my use case is for heavy towing. So, seeing 60% at 3800 is not a huge concern at this point since I don't often have it above 4500rpm. To say Stage 1 has exceeded my expectations on towing would be an understatement since I bought 12 gallons of Boost Juice just for this trip and we thought I'd potentially go through a gallon+ on each leg of the trip. Boy, were we wrong! Snapshot of the logs is below:

 

Whoop whoop!!!

We are still in awe by how far past our expectation for towing the Stage 1 kit has gone. Thanks for all the feedback and effort you've put into testing this Brian!

 

I was thinking on some custom brackets or spacers for that tank until I saw this molle. Definitely the best spot for trucks with tunneau covers. No much space just 18 x 18 ft. , looks bigger in photos.

How is the SCG-1 gauge holding up so far in the AC vent? I assume that it require a drill in the AC duct for wires and some seal to cover the gap between the wires? I also found other options like custom made pilar like this: https://www.ozgaugepods.com/toyota This also provides space for more gauges but not quite sure about the need for it. Do you plan or see the need to add any other gauge for some reason?

 

Loving the vent pod, and yes, a small hole is required into the bottom of the plastic vent tubing. I didn't add any sealant since the hole was so small the plugs and wires could barely fit.

95% of the time, I love the location and how subtle it is. The 5% I truly care to track it, the location could be a bit higher. That said, it and the AEM LED give me all the data I need and the clean install makes it great. Zero issues with the location in the vent, as it has a reasonable amount of airflow around it.

I don't anticipate adding any additional. The SCG and the AEM have me covered, and when I'm not logging, I'm using OBDFusion for monitoring the other vitals.

Your link was a good find. If you bounce over to the supercharger thread, a bunch of them are running a steering column mount, too.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/general-supercharger-thread.85513/page-208#post-3107983

 

At the top left of the spreadsheet tables, there's a +/-/A/C buttons you can click. For injector duty cycle you may want to click the "+" which will show the max value, right now you're looking at the average so if you logged a cell at 80% DC since you were at WOT and then it logged it again idling through that cell at 40% you would end up only seeing the 60% average. It won't be that extreme, but if you want to see the actual max duty cycle that may help you. Same thing for monitoring MAF voltage and other parameters where you want to see max, min, etc.

 

Good call, here is the max reading!

 

Minor update to the locknut issue I was having on the v-bands. @TurboKits.com had rush shipped them to me and they arrived the yesterday. They're not a nylon lock nut from the store, so don't judge.

Anyways, both of the lowers that twe had to remove a few times since my original tightening had loosened yet again since Saturday. I was able to take them off by hand once separated from the front nut on the post. The new ones were a PITA due to the location, and needed assistance all the way to the first nut and locked down tight. Very hopeful that is now behind me.

Thanks again Jesse!

 

Yeah, it was purely the on and off, it's why Vibrant includes the second, non-locking nut, so that you can adjust during install and then lock it down at the end, typically you can get maybe 1 or 2 uses, but they lose the locking "bite" quick. The fresh nut should be the last time you are messing with it.

 

Update:

I got stock logs and maps.

Few Logs:

• Idle
• Going Up Hill
• Going Down Hill
• Cruising
• Pedal to the metal
• Dyno run

Dynojet wideband wasn't working. Torque and HP reads only.

 

Excellent, great starting point and I'll say it again, I love me a white tundra, just something about that color on the Tundra's lines. Nice work all around on that beauty!

 

I tend to agree!!!

 

Oooof!!!

 

you are now barred from posting anymore photos in this thread, strictly on the grounds that I am jealous. gorgeous rig!

 

Thank you sir!

 

I finally decided where to install the SCG. Lots of options. I love the AC vent mount but wanted to install it a little bit higher. Also, nothing wrong with the gauge mount included in the kit but it doesn't hide the gauge wires as I was looking for. I found a pillar gauge base in a local shop. I decided to install it from the rear side of the pillar and looks better than I expected. I had to cut the pillar and the base. Still need add some glue.

This is how it looks...

 

Why would KR be totally flatlined, and not running positive or negative? I don’t think I’ve really seen it not bouncing around on my LX570.

 

Because there's no timing being retarded by the ECU.

 

ok but Kr also advances timing. Thats how KCLV advances.

so why was it doing absolutely nothing?

 

If I'm looking at it correctly, it would appear that it hasn't started to learn up yet, to advance timing little by little to see how advanced it can go before knock is detected. It's only at 15.2*. It's hard to say what the time period of the screen shot is, it's possible that it's only a few seconds.

 

Today's temp, really hot in PR 97 F. Wondering at what max temp this kit has been tested so far.

 

We get hot in the summer in CT, 97 would be one of the hotter days and we are dripping with humidity. Keep in mind the water meth is spraying AFTER the MAF, so the IAT readings are not taking the cooling from the meth into account.

 

A little update. Gauge and water/meth LED indicator installed. Used JB weld to keep the gauge mount into position. Super strong!

 

I like that install! Nice and clean and def in a better spot for functionality.

 

Looks great, nice to incorporate the water meth LED into it as well!

 

Made some cuts to the crossover pipe in preparation for the new 6 inches flex section and the needed extensions to make it compatible with my 6 inches 4x4 lifted Tundra.

Original:



First cuts:








Plan (sketch from Jesse)

 

@Jego thanks for taking on this extra work. Looking forward to seeing it all come together and confirming what extra steps are needed for the bigger lifts!

 

Migrated over to the Stage 1.5. Took advantage of the opportunity to loosen the front of the turbo and chased a minor seeping after our late night a few weeks back. All appears to be dry after the test run, but we'll see. Actively passing tunes back and forth and will have more to share once I can actually get some miles on it, which may not be until early next week.

Aside from extending the water methanol line and blow off valve vacuum line, the move was pretty simple. Of course, the intercooler was already done, but honestly, the worst part was cutting the heat tape to free up the MAF sensor harness. Was able to up use some of the heat tubing instead, which made it so much faster to reapply the protection to the harness on that side of the block.

Thanks for the quick responses @TurboKits.com