Blown engine

I know what the mechanic told me. He said flaw. Now, I can't say for when this was corrected. I do know he flat out Said it was a crankshaft flaw. Since mine was #2 bearing on the crankshaft, I would have to assume it is either bad bearings OR an improperly made crankshaft. Or an improperly made Block that holds the crank. My 2 cents.

 

For the MSRP on that Tata, you better get 200,000 miles of trouble free ownership. History of the company says otherwise but I do hope yours will be the one.

FYI I did see a $100k Stellantis Grand Wagoneer at my off ramp on the way home last week with 4 way flashers on and 4 men pushing it to the side of the road. Looks like typical quality from them.

 

you see this in oil analysis reports

 

I saw a family over weekend in a c store parking lot with kids and pets out and hood up in an early 2020s gen 2.5 Tundra Pro over the weekend.

Everything man made is not perfect.

 

The odds from one company of getting a bad vehicle compared to others is easily researched and varies quite a bit. Would you rather play Russian roulette with 1 bullet or 4?

I wouldn't touch a vehicle from the USA Big 2 and Stellantis now because many were built when the UAW was striking or considering striking. Quality isn't job1 when workers hate the company they work for and can't be fired for doing poorly.

 

Just pointing out every OEM has recalls, defects and lemons. That is a fact history backs up

 

Main causes of any engine's crank bearing failure (rod or main) #1 by far, lubrication or lack there of; to a lessor degree, contamination (Toyota's official "rumor"); or overloading such as repeated detonation or abnormal combustion events (unlikely)

 

Wed, Any update from Toyota ? What is the current fail rate ? Any new thoughts as to what is causing these failures ? Thank you Kid

 

Wed, Any update from Toyota ? What is the current fail rate ? Any new thoughts as to what is causing these failures ? Thank you Kid

 

Well, add me to the list of engine failures. Had some stalling issues last week and then some knocking in the bottom end yesterday. Took it in today and there was metal shaving in the oil and it sounds like a crankshaft bearing. 28k miles on it.

 

That is terrible news.

 

Drain your 0w20 water now and fill it with 0w40 (cold climate) or 10w40 (hot climate) if you want this flimsy overstressed engine to survive.

 

Most of the US land is what can be considered a hot climate. V35A is a direct injection engine, which means lot more fuel in oil that thins it even further. Lot more pressure on the bearings, because the engine produces more torque. Lot hotter operational conditions, more heat per square inch is generated everywhere, hot oil becomes less viscous even further. Lot higher real compression numbers, because this engine operates under boost. The lowest possible octane rating gas is recommended. ECU has no choice, but wait for detonations to begin and back off ignition/boost. This application screeches for thick oil.

 

The v35a is direct and port injection.

 

Doesn't matter. Port injections piece here is only for intake valves cleaning.

 

I daily drive a company provided vehicle. A 2020 Chevy Silverado 1 wheel drive, crew cab with a 4 cylinder turbo. I just rolled past 50,000 miles driven in hot humid FL and the company will only buy 87 octane. No towing and I am not easy on it. No issues with performance so far.

It can be done with 87 in hot areas. Also not lifted with giant tires and heavy added skid plates either.

 

I would 100% agree with the oil being too thin for the application. Maybe not the only reason for the bearing failures(IE maybe also a design/manufacturing issue) but 0W-20 is silly IMHO.

Ford attempted to use 5W-20 in the 3.5L Ecoboost for the first 2 years in the Taurus SHO and Explorer Sport but quickly changed all 3.5 EB vehicles to 5W-30 by the time the F150's came out with the engine. I think they realized between the high specific output and fuel contamination that they needed some buffer.

GM is also spec'ing 5W-30 in their 2.7L Turbomax engine while their 5.3L and 6.2L V8's are 0W-20.

Jeeps running 0W-40 in the 3.0 HO motor in the Grand Wagoneer.

And i am guessing most of the german GTDI motors are specing 0W-40 or something.

 

Chevy is also extremely conservative on the tuning with that 2.7L. If the wind blows the wrong direction they dial it back.

But regardless, these motors can take advatage of pretty much any octane you throw at them. My 2014 Ecoboost wouldn't full max out timing even when I was running 96 octane.

 

In other parts of the world the v35a specs all the way up to 10w40.
5w30 is a fine range of oil. In the US they seems to like the 0w20 to be in CAFE specs with fuel economy.

 

These two (5K OCI and 91/93 octane) are equally important. Less fuel dilution, less engine knocks.

 

Curious about that myself. Highly doubt these monkey wrenchers are doing oil analysis before deciding to cover one of these. Pretty much carte-blanch if a ‘22/early ‘23 spins a bearing now. After the 20K free change I’m going to re-assess. I see the new 4cyl Toyota cars are running 0-12W water.

 

ouch, going to be some unhappy people....

it sure would be nice if toyota would say something FFS, but we all know they won't. I don't blame the engineers on this site for staying in the weeds and not addressing anything as well to risk their job, plus even when @wedemmoez was nice enough to tell us some basic stuff, he had people being d-bags in PMs, etc, so thats another reason.

I said before, it would be awesome if we have a vetted small group that could interact with the toyota engineers in a private area, I bet that would be super useful to both parties, toyota would have access to die hard very knowledgeable owners and we could help with some of the real world problems to sort them out. It could even be a pay section, I would chip in for something like that. I just took a long survey on my Sienna they sent me, even that was so canned, you could't tell them the valuable stuff, just a bunch of way over structured check boxes. It seemed to guide the responses way too much just to use to justify things in the future the way the survey team wanted.

pipe dream though

 

For sure. This is not how business works.

 

big business anyway,

Im a small business owner, I take that shit serious

 

I've often wondered if LSPI was a contributing factor as LSPI can be caused by multiple things especially under the low RPM/high load/boost conditions that the V35A operates under certain conditions. One contributing factor engineers and oil chemists have come up with is the detergent packages in older oils, namely the calcium levels. Modern oils with Dexos 1 or the GF-6 rating should mitigate LSPI as far as oil is concerned, but oil contamination such as fuel dilution or soot content can still raise the probability of LSPI. Some manufacturers historically have tuned to over fuel momentarily as a quick bandaid fix in high throttle/low RPM situations to prevent pre igniton and cool combustion slightly, downside of that can be fuel dilution over time though as Honda found on the 1.5L turbo engines.

 

Same thing here, but maybe even shorter OCI, but running 91/94 oct (Canada) since new!

 

I did post to the first one already

 

I'm at 1400 miles. I already changed it at 1k and will again at 5k and every 5k afterwards. I've been running 89 octane though. I wish TX midgrade was 90.

 

Guess I'm old school. Did first OCI at 1000 miles, next at 5000 miles, next at 9500 miles (It was a warm day ) and last one at approx. 13500. All with Oil Filter rated at 99.9 % efficiency at 20 micros. My OCI cycle is once in spring and once in late fall coinciding with about 5000 miles. All documented with receipts. One thing I am careful with in the winter is driving to/from work allowing truck to completely warm up. Approximately 15 miles each way on country roads and short freeway. If I have a engine issue, its not going to be from abuse on maintenance concerns. I also purchased an extended warranty. It it breaks, Toyota will fix it. Life is too short to dwell on it. That said, I enjoy driving it and it's a solid vehicle. Time will tell on longevity.