What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Installed my warranty replacement morimoto tail lights, got my ditch lights working, and installed an Amazon billet battery holder thing I had laying around. While I’m happy morimoto sent me replacements and in the red color I had originally wanted, I’m kinda bummed they sent me old stock. The ones I removed had a date of 2/22 whereas the replacements had a date of 5/22. Others have told me that their replacements came with beefed up tabs but the ones I got are exactly the same.

 

I rarely check this thread, but tonight I did, I LOLed..

 

Just sayin'...

$42 Vgate Lead Acid Battery Terminal Clamps, 8AWG up to 4/0(XL) AWG Gauge, 12-Way Connectors, Positive and Negative (+/-)(Pair) for SAE/DIN/EN Tapered Top Post

Amazon.com: Vgate Lead Acid Battery Terminal Clamps, 8AWG up to 4/0(XL) AWG Gauge, 12-Way Connectors, Positive and Negative (+/-)(Pair) for SAE/DIN/EN Tapered Top Post : Automotive

 

7’s on the way home from work.
3-1/2 years

 

Haha I figured someone would comment about the wiring. I have a switch pro that’s been waiting to be installed for almost 2 years. I’ll get to it eventually.

 

Go buy a scratch it or lottery ticket!

 

Maybe wheel bearing? I had a similar sound with a S10 years ago and I replaced a bunch of front end parts only to finally figure out it was a loose door hinge that was the culprit all along.

 

It feesl sort of like a spring pop. I though I saw something in their forum about someone having a strut mount that was loose but I would have to look at the post again. That forum is not very active at all.

 

Not to belabor it...but that's exactly what mine sounded like.

 

I'm curious to know how those shocks perform for you!

 

Got these Bush Company awning brackets last night and put them on the Kuat Ibex rack. Very beefy!

 

Well, I got all four installed. (Also got my new-to-me Fuel Blitz 20x9 +20 on, and they currently have almost bald 285/55s.) A lot of changes all at once: new wheels, shocks, and Road Active Suspension. After about 10 miles, surface streets, ride is nice, not harsh, but less cushy than stock; a different level of "touch" with the road. My big worry now is those worn out, front 285/55s rub in reverse. Both fronts are hitting either the bumper plastic, or the mud flap, depending on my direction of turn. And, I've already paid for new 285/60s that I planned to have installed in the next day or two. So, priority now is finding solutions: bumper shims (I've bumper light brackets currently installed on the mounts that likely won't go back on with 1/2" shims)?, remove/replace mud flaps?, adjust the CO lift?

 

That much suspension change will need an alignment. I personally wouldnt trim and adjust things without the tires on it that you plan to use, and i wouldnt align it with worn out tires. Id install the new tires and have someone align it who is compitent to adjust the caster forward for clearance

 

Basically agreed. But, I'm already rubbing, front and back, with tires that are 1.2" smaller diameter than what are going on. Plan is to get the new tires on, and then the same shop does the alignment. Perhaps I'm anticipating too much, but I'm thinking at least shim the bumper out using stacked washers, or 5/8" nuts, to give the alignment tech some room for caster forward? Trimming/cutting is the last thing on my mind.

 

Which is why I never have over half a tank full of gas

 

I never wanted a rack until this. I want the rack and the awning. Would be perfect for the beach so I wouldn't have to drag out the canopy and sand bags.

 

Finally home from the work trip and had time to tinker. New fuel pressure regulator is in. Just waiting on the new tuning device to arrive then we can dial in this LS103mm throttle body and 5” intake etc. Also got a 3D printed sensor guard which looks good. We’ll see how long it stays on since it’s just a ton of 3M adhesive.

 

Had a rack; took it off. If you’re going to get a rack you might as well get a topper. Serves the same purpose plus more

 

Change my oil and cut up the factory skid plate.

I want to remove the diff drop spacers that the previous owner installed, anyone know the part number for the factory bolts?

 

I'll never get a camper/topper.

 

Why do you want to remove your diff drop?

 

I did this, let me do some digging for the part number.

 

https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/bolt-flange-9010514177#popup-1

 

Theyre largely unnecessary

 

I suppose so, yeah. I also don't see the harm in running them though

 

I am curious to know how many people that drop the diff actually go out and wheel it hard or if it is just to handle a little more room to raise the front end without binding. I do not recall reading anything from anyone that has had failure that was linked to the diff drop but then again the usage of the diff after the drop is what I am curious about.

 

I should watch Kai's video on it again

 

My truck definitely sees full droop when I wheel it, albeit with my current 5100 setup it's not crazy droop. Once I switch to extended travel coilovers then see full droop, that's when I think the diff drop will be worth it.

 

It’s not needed and I can regain 1” of clearance. There’s a YouTube video explaining that diff drop kits are useless.

 

Dude I owe you beer